PUP 0w-20 (GM dexos1) vs. M1 EP (GM dexos1: Gen3)
- Thread starter AJW001
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Does PUP have the settling of additives in the bottom of the container like PP?
If so use the M1.
In my opinion if the additive package can sink to the bottom (Pennzoil) then it can do the same in an oil sump and be collected and held in the filter. Especially for vehicles that may not be driven daily.
I realize that folks say to “shake it up” before pouring it in the engine but that just don’t seem like enough effort has been made to properly blend the additive package with oil.
I tried to like Pennzoil for my 2015 Tahoe but stopped using after 3 oil changes. Every oil change the oil was purchased at random times from several different retailers. All had the black sediment in the bottom.
If so use the M1.
In my opinion if the additive package can sink to the bottom (Pennzoil) then it can do the same in an oil sump and be collected and held in the filter. Especially for vehicles that may not be driven daily.
I realize that folks say to “shake it up” before pouring it in the engine but that just don’t seem like enough effort has been made to properly blend the additive package with oil.
I tried to like Pennzoil for my 2015 Tahoe but stopped using after 3 oil changes. Every oil change the oil was purchased at random times from several different retailers. All had the black sediment in the bottom.
I went 17+k miles on PUP 0w20 with barely over 1ppm/1k mi (18ppm in 17,150 miles) and still had 2.9 TBN left… where do you get that PUP isn’t an extended drain oil?
I don't have a reference for this. TBN used to be reported for virgin PUP in the past I believe and was lower than virgin TBN for previous iterations of M1 EP at the time. Don't know about how they are now.
It looks like you had an intake tract leak (or K&N?) that lead to high silicon, and an oil cooler on an engine that was still breaking in. The oil itself was still in grade and still had active TBN left, flashpoint is great; there’s nothing concerning to say the oil was overwhelmed. That engine was still only making 2ppm/1k mi Fe which is no problem at all.
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The fact that Pennzoil doesn't advertise and market it as an extended drain oil. If they did, it would be, but they don't, so it's not.
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I'd go with the M1.
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This is correct. While I'm sure it's more than capable of handling longer intervals in many applications, Pennzoil does not explicitly market it as an extended drain product like M1 EP and Castrol EP are.
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Aye.
I think the new Mobil 1 EP formulation is probably very solid. I am using the 5w30 variant, and while the PAO content was significantly reduced, I believe Mobil has something else under the hood to meet the 20,000 mile OCI claim. At least I hope so. In the latest VOA, it showed a pretty low TBN and an underwhelming overall report. Again, I'd like to think Mobil has more under the hood than what appears in a VOA. I have about 2,000 miles on the newest variant and it seems to be performing well.
You nailed it. I had a K&N. At the time, I remember deciding to keep it in because the iron numbers remained low.
Since at least the mid '80s, Pennzoil has refrained from claiming extended OCIs on PCMOs. When I started with Pennzoil Products Co. in 1985, a synthetic blend "P-Z-L Extended Life" oil had been recently discontinued.
When asking a few years later why we didn't offer an extended life oil, I was told that by doing so it could be claimed we were assuming the OEM warranty. Maybe they experienced that type of situation with the P-Z-L product. If so, I never heard that. I just heard it was discontinued due to failing to meet sales expectations.
They are a completely different company now, so I don't know their reasoning for not having an extended life offering. If one were to look through the Q&A threads however, I think the same policy of adhering to the OEM OCI can be found.
Promotional coin bank made from a P-Z-L can.
Personally, with a direct injected engine that is also turbo'd I'd go with a bit thicker oil and at that I'd go with MB229.52 oil as it's better than D1G3 anyway. Mobil1 ESP or Penn Plat Euro LX are two great oils.
I got PP Euro LX at Can Tire just before New Year when it was on 50% sale from orig $72 to $36 and then used Penn promotion online to get $15 off a jug, cheque in hands now, it was limited to 2 jugs per person for the promo thou.
I got PP Euro LX at Can Tire just before New Year when it was on 50% sale from orig $72 to $36 and then used Penn promotion online to get $15 off a jug, cheque in hands now, it was limited to 2 jugs per person for the promo thou.
Yeah it's sounding like it's best to go with the oil with the latest certifications. Dexos1:gen3 looks really good on paper, and considerably better than SP or ILSAC GF-6 (which PUP has only). This despite all that GTL brings to the table in terms of being a true synthetic and it's cost effectiveness.