PUP 0w-20 (GM dexos1) vs. M1 EP (GM dexos1: Gen3)

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AJW001

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So I recently purchased a couple jugs of PUP and was clinging onto my years impressions of the pure-plus gas-to-liquids tech. Then after the fact, I became aware of the dexos certifications and how they apply to turbo direct-injected engines. And that the dexos1:gen3 certification is currently the most robust and protective for turbo direct-injected engines it seems.

My Hyundai Kona N-Line 1.6T manual just states a requirement for API SN Plus/SP or ILSAC GF-6 (which PUP 0w-20 already has). I think I know the answer already that both PUP and M1 EP are going to be "fine" and the engine is going to be just "fine". We all want the best for our engines of course. Notwithstanding, how much of a practical difference is one or other going to make over the course of two oil changes (each approx 8,000 to 10,000 km)? Is one or the other going to help reduce the rate of intake valve deposition? My car currently has 2,400 km. I did an early oil change with PUP 0w-20 at 2,200 km.

Just a bit bothered by not having carefully considering my oil options before I purchased the two PUP jugs for my new car, that's all.

GM Dexos1 Gen 3 Engine Oil Specification | Chevron Oronite (Global)

Learn about Dexos1 Gen 3, the global engine oil specification introduced by General Motors, and Oronite's flexible solutions.
www.oronite.com www.oronite.com
 
T

tasch72

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Blackstone Labs has noted that when appropriately spec'ed oils are used, there is no discernable difference across brands in wear patterns.

If you're not looking for extended drain intervals, either one will work and you'll see a bigger difference in engine wear rates by keeping up with a paper engine air filter.
 
I<3oil

I<3oil

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If you're only going 8-10k km, either one will be more than fine. If you were going to do like 12k km+, then I'd say go with the EP since PUP isn't an extended drain oil.
 
B

Bill_W

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I would buy either one when a rebate comes available. Mobil 1 EP formulation is different now than when it was API SN. If you have long highway drives every day that is great for your oil. The short trips are considered severe service. So most drivers should just stick to severe service OCI and target cost/performance for your oil choice.

But since you have a turbo the certification needed in your operation manual is important.
 
A

AJW001

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Bill_W said:
I would buy either one when a rebate comes available. Mobil 1 EP formulation is different now than when it was API SN. If you have long highway drives every day that is great for your oil. The short trips are considered severe service. So most drivers should just stick to severe service OCI and target cost/performance for your oil choice.

But since you have a turbo the certification needed in your operation manual is important.
Click to expand...
Yeah, indeed. I grabbed those two jugs as they were pretty steeply discounted back in December. $34/jug CAD in Canadian Tire I think is pretty cheap for a full synthetic here in Canada. This compared to $50-ish for M1 EP at the time.

My driving pattern is typical city and usually for 15-20 mins at a time. I live in Metro Vancouver, BC. Temps are pretty moderate here in the winter. It's 10C outside right now.
 
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A

AJW001

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tolian21 said:
I specifically looked under viscosity details in PDF file for 0w-20 and it does not mention dexos.
Click to expand...
I'm in the Canadian website.
1673643038353.jpg
 
G

Greasymechtech

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Robust/protective means little with short trippers and excessive fuel in the oil.

Your engine isn't going to care about what current spec OE recommended grade oil you're using. It will care about your selected interval and amount of fuel diluting that oil.

So, use what you got and switch around to whatever when you want. For the interval, consider at least 1 UOA and see how the visc/fuel is holding out. You might be better served with a 0w30 or 5w30 synthetic, a euro/hdeo higher HTHS 30 grade, or even maybe a 40 grade.

I also personally don't care what Blackstone 'assumes' with their limited data.

What is the required interval for your vehicle in Canada? is there a severe service requirement? Please quote your owners manual and not dealer blabber. Hyundai Canada usually has more aggressive time/mileage requirements in Canada when compared to us in USA. I do know that the newer engines with synth oil grades have longer OC intervals than the older engines using conventional, at least in the USA.
 
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AJW001

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tolian21 said:
US shows the same thing under specifications. I am talking about viscosity details PDF for 0w-20, it does not say anything about dexos. Seems like one of the documents is wrong
Click to expand...
I see what you mean in the PDF. Yeah the dexos certification is missing. But I think the PDF document is old/obsolete. It's dated 2020 in the bottom footnotes.
 
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A

AJW001

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Greasymechtech said:
Robust/protective means little with short trippers and excessive fuel in the oil.

Your engine isn't going to care about what current spec OE recommended grade oil you're using. It will care about your selected interval and amount of fuel diluting that oil.

So, use what you got and switch around to whatever when you want. For the interval, consider at least 1 UOA and see how the visc/fuel is holding out. You might be better served with a 0w30 or 5w30 synthetic, a euro/hdeo higher HTHS 30 grade, or even maybe a 40 grade.

I also personally don't care what Blackstone 'assumes' with their limited data.

What is the required interval for your vehicle in Canada? is there a severe service requirement? Please quote your owners manual and not dealer blabber. Hyundai Canada usually has more aggressive time/mileage requirements in Canada when compared to us in USA. I do know that the newer engines with synth oil grades have longer OC intervals than the older engines using conventional, at least in the USA.
Click to expand...
You're correct. The Canadian service manual looks to be a "severe requirement" with 8,000 km OCI (compared to the US manual, 13,000 km). Severe, even though I live in a pretty moderate climate here in Metro Vancouver. Regardless, I'll be doing a UOA at 10,200 km on the odometer (8,000 OCI) to see what the fuel dilution and TBN look like.
1673643828574.png
 
A

AJW001

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Escape08 said:
Mobil1 has the recognition and the status quo in the eyes of others (DIY) but for me they're both good.
Click to expand...
Used to be PUP for quite a while (years ago)! But as others have pointed out, M1 looks to have reformulated and now carries the more stringent certifications.

I'll probably just go ahead and use up my two jugs (one just filled, one remaining) of PUP at the 8,000 km OCI recommendation and probably switch over to M1 EP 0W-20. PUP is non-extended OCI anyways.

I don't doubt that Shell's GTL makes for a pretty awesome base oil (and oil package in the past). But Shell now needs to step it up in the reformulation game it seems.
 
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Greasymechtech

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So, you're interval is 6 months, or 8k km, whichever comes 1st.... you'll have to not bother with the 8k-10k km interval you mentioned earlier.

You can adapt the grade to your UOA data, if you want. Many won't. But, at least you'll know if the 0w20 is tolerable for your mild Canadian climate.

I am not a brand fanboy. The major brands play 'label' changes constantly. Doubt any is better or worse than any other, unless you battle with the boutique brands bragging about PAO/PIO/GTL/EOP/POE/AN base ratios.

15-20 minute cooler climate city commute..... is scary for any engine, even over here in the southern climate. I'd consider a block heater, pan heater, and an extension cord. Maybe getting it all warmed up 30 minutes prior to your initial commute will help cook off some condensation(moisture or fuel). Maybe not.
 
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tolian21

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Do UOA, I was disappointed to learn that my 2.0t Honda is a fuel diluter and what it really needs is a higher viscosity oil and more frequent oil changes. Oil I get is cheapest, Kirkland
 
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AJW001

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tolian21 said:
Do UOA, I was disappointed to learn that my 2.0t Honda is a fuel diluter and what it really needs is a higher viscosity oil and more frequent oil changes. Oil I get is cheapest, Kirkland
Click to expand...
Yes def a UOA. My previous car I had for 10 years (Ford Focus ST 2013) was a 2.0T GDI. But had no fuel dilution issues. OCI for that car was 13,000 km.
 
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