PS system flush

[dlundblad]

Happy Saturday BITOG

I would like to attempt an actual flush as opposed to the turkey blaster method.

Typically, do you remove the low pressure line and run that into a container as well as cap the low pressure line port on the reservoir? I am sure having a helper makes things easier too.

Seems simple assuming the hose is in decent shape.. Even then, it may not be a bad idea to replace it. Am I missing anything?

 

[demarpaint]

I disconnected the low pressure hose, capped the nipple and stuck the hose into a gallon jug. I had a new length of hose and replaced the low pressure hose when I was done. That's optional. Having my wife sitting in the car to start and shut down the engine made things easier.

 

[MaximaGuy]

Determine where the low pressure hose (3/8" smaller hose connected to the PS reservoir) as it makes to the front of the vehicle. Usually the line goes towards the front frame it could be different in your vehicle,

a) Raise the front of the vehicle above ground.
b) Disconnect it and drain into a pan and stick a pencil into it and plug it tight.
c) Attached a 3/8" hose to the other end and point to a gallon jug.
d) Put vehicle in ACC with the vehicle raised and do steering locks to push all fluid out of pump and rack.
e) Now refill reservoir with fresh fluid and keep doing steering locks as new fluid makes its way into the rack and pump.
f) Once there is fluid coming out of the disconnect end, stop, remove hose and reconnect return line back.
g) Start vehicle and do steering locks to push air off the system, top it off and bring the vehicle down

The capacity is usually a Quart and use PS fluid.

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
Determine where the low pressure hose (3/8" smaller hose connected to the PS reservoir) as it makes to the front of the vehicle. Usually the line goes towards the front frame it could be different in your vehicle,

a) Raise the front of the vehicle above ground.
b) Disconnect it and drain into a pan and stick a pencil into it and plug it tight.
c) Attached a 3/8" hose to the other end and point to a gallon jug.
d) Put vehicle in ACC with the vehicle raised and do steering locks to push all fluid out of pump and rack.
e) Now refill reservoir with fresh fluid and keep doing steering locks as new fluid makes its way into the rack and pump.
f) Once there is fluid coming out of the disconnect end, stop, remove hose and reconnect return line back.
g) Start vehicle and do steering locks to push air off the system, top it off and bring the vehicle down

The capacity is usually a Quart and use PS fluid.


Thanks for the detailed explanation.

Simply turning the wheel lock to lock with the engine (and PS pump) off will push all the old fluid out of the system?

 

[bugeye]

If asking for your Volvo, do not use transmission fluid for power steering fluid. Use Pentosin 202 or 11s.

 

[4WD]

Think I will stay with pulling some out once per year - I use a jumbo syringe with a clear hose ...

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: 4WD
Think I will stay with pulling some out once per year - I use a jumbo syringe with a clear hose ...


Generally I'd be a fan of this, however if you are not the original owner and/ or the PS system was abused, this method is a waste of time and PSF IMO.

 

[Ethan1]

A turkey baster, suction gun, or mityvac will never give you air bubbles. It's also a lot easier and less time consuming, even if you account for the fact that you'll be doing it 5+ times. And PSF or ATF is cheap, really.

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: Ethan1
A turkey baster, suction gun, or mityvac will never give you air bubbles. It's also a lot easier and less time consuming, even if you account more the fact that you'll be doing it 5+ times. And PSF or ATF is cheap, really.


Generally yes, but price that Pentosin previously mentioned in this thread.

$20 on average for a small can.

 

[ChiTDI]

Only item missing in your plan was lifting the front end off the ground to turn the wheels easier.
Your plan works for me.
My only concern is the type of fluid. In my VW days, Pentosin was the only way to go and it wasn't cheap.
That said, we got 3-500k on a rack changing the PSF once every 100k.

 

[Rolla07]

I think doing this is a great idea. I used to use turkey baster method but the fluid would get cloudy again every few months. I have done this procedure by myself with no issues and its been almost a year and fluid is still clean. If you have a helper even better.

 

[Xrs2zz]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
Determine where the low pressure hose (3/8" smaller hose connected to the PS reservoir) as it makes to the front of the vehicle. Usually the line goes towards the front frame it could be different in your vehicle,

a) Raise the front of the vehicle above ground.
b) Disconnect it and drain into a pan and stick a pencil into it and plug it tight.
c) Attached a 3/8" hose to the other end and point to a gallon jug.
d) Put vehicle in ACC with the vehicle raised and do steering locks to push all fluid out of pump and rack.
e) Now refill reservoir with fresh fluid and keep doing steering locks as new fluid makes its way into the rack and pump.
f) Once there is fluid coming out of the disconnect end, stop, remove hose and reconnect return line back.
g) Start vehicle and do steering locks to push air off the system, top it off and bring the vehicle down

The capacity is usually a Quart and use PS fluid.


Thanks for the detailed explanation.

Simply turning the wheel lock to lock with the engine (and PS pump) off will push all the old fluid out of the system?


I did this procedure a couple of years ago and my PSF is still clean and clear. I did not have the engine running to flush all the old fluid out and I didn't have any air in the system.

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
Determine where the low pressure hose (3/8" smaller hose connected to the PS reservoir) as it makes to the front of the vehicle. Usually the line goes towards the front frame it could be different in your vehicle,

a) Raise the front of the vehicle above ground.
b) Disconnect it and drain into a pan and stick a pencil into it and plug it tight.
c) Attached a 3/8" hose to the other end and point to a gallon jug.
d) Put vehicle in ACC with the vehicle raised and do steering locks to push all fluid out of pump and rack.
e) Now refill reservoir with fresh fluid and keep doing steering locks as new fluid makes its way into the rack and pump.
f) Once there is fluid coming out of the disconnect end, stop, remove hose and reconnect return line back.
g) Start vehicle and do steering locks to push air off the system, top it off and bring the vehicle down

The capacity is usually a Quart and use PS fluid.


Do everything this guy says; it works very well, the key is having the front wheels off the ground and a helper turn the wheels lock to lock. While you're at it, take it one step further...Repeat the whole process once, and your PS fluid in the reservoir will end up looking like the stuff in the new container. And once you've got the car up, the line disconnected, etc., it doesn't take all that much longer to simply repeat the process once.

It's not hard, and your helper can listen to the radio and be comfy. And I daresay it IS much faster and better than the turkey baster method that must be done ad infinitum.

edit: You DON'T need to start the engine to get all the old fluid out; just turn the wheels lock to lock. I'm not sure I'd even like the idea of starting the motor with the system drained. Excellent way to introduce tons of air and run the pump dry.

 

[MaximaGuy]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
]

Simply turning the wheel lock to lock with the engine (and PS pump) off will push all the old fluid out of the system?


When the ignition is in ACC the steering column unlocks allowing you to do steering locks with out the engine running. Starting the engine after reconnecting the return line will push out all the air that was trapped in the system which pushing out the old fluid.

I have done this procedure and it works just fine. I do it in one short always, AFT flush and PSF flush every 60K and I use RL always.

Disclaimer, someone said this would mess up Fords PS systems, I have never owned one to say otherwise.

 

[SHOZ]

I just usually drain it when the engine is off if I want to do a complete flush. Almost all the old fluid will come out. Trying to keep the reservoir full with the engine running is pretty hard to do.

 

[MaximaGuy]

Redoing it as there is some missing pieces to clear the procedure up.

a) Raise the front of the vehicle above ground.
b) Disconnect it and drain into a pan and stick a pencil into it and plug it tight.
c) Attached a 3/8" hose to the other end of return line (usually a aluminum tubing) and point to a gallon jug.
d) Put vehicle in ACC with the vehicle raised, this unlocks the steering column, and do steering locks to push all fluid out of pump and rack. Drain all fluid out completely, no fluid comes off the return line, it takes no more than 5 steering locks to push out all the old fluid completely out.
e) Now refill reservoir with fresh fluid (with the return line tubing still plugged) and keep doing steering locks while adding new fluid as new fluid is sucked from the reservoir into the rack and pump.
f) Once there is fluid coming out of the disconnect tubing, stop, remove hose, unplug the return line and reconnect return line back. Now the system has enough fluid in the rack and pump and some fluid in the reservoir to safely start the engine.
g) The PS system has enough air trapped which needs to be removed, it can only be removed via the reservoir, so toping it off slowing while someone is doing steering locks with engine running is the key, the air gets out quite quickly. Start vehicle and do steering locks to push air off the system, top it off and bring the vehicle down.


All done.

 

[DoubleWasp]

On system with remote reservoirs, I do the following:

1. Suction out the reservoir.

2. Remove the pump feed line from the reservoir, stick the appropriate double-end barb in that hose, and attach a clear hose to the other end of the barb with clamps on both hoses.

3. Remove the reservoir return line and do the same.

4. Place the pump feed line clear hose extension into a new gallon of appropriate fluid.

5. Place reservoir return line into an empty jug.

6. Secure the hoses to the jugs, and secure the jugs.

7. Raise the front end slightly to allow full steering action.

8. Start engine, and turn wheel lock to lock until clean fluid is coming out of the clear hose attached to the reservoir return line.

9. Remove clear hoses, reattach hoses to reservoir, fill reservoir, and done.

No air gets in, and absolutely all old fluid is out.

 

[MaximaGuy]

Double Wasp:

On bullet there is no way on mother earth you can fill at the speed it pushes fluid out. I once did that (w/ my grumbling wife behind the wheel) and gave up, told her to shut the engine and also shut her mouth and get out of the garage!!! These days, I only do flushes after we have had a good vacation, I have to time it to eternity.!!!

8) Start engine, and turn wheel lock to lock until clean fluid is coming out of the clear hose attached to the reservoir return line

 

[4WD]

Turkey baster's don't get deep enough in my problem pump - I get twice as much out with the hose & syringe ...
My fluid problem is oxidation - doing a flush does not end that problem ... So I just suck it out once a year, fast & cheap.
System keeps going ...
I think the OP has a one in ten case ...

 

[rustypigeon]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad

Simply turning the wheel lock to lock with the engine (and PS pump) off will push all the old fluid out of the system?


In most cars you do not need to start the engine. My BMW requires the PS pump to operate to suck new fluid in.