Proper lube for maintaining front/rear brakes?

[SOHCman]

For brake maintenance, what is the proper grease to use for contact points on disc and drum brakes?

I have been using sil-glide for the front pins and pad points, it seems to work but i cant help but think a moly #2 grease might work better for the pins.

A few of my vehicles all seem to have planned a rear drum squeak fest together, so im going to be opening them all up for new shoes and grease to keep them quiet. What grease would be appropriate for the contact/pivot points though? Silicone based, moly, or maybe antisieze?

Thanks.

 

[galaxy333]

Here is what I use it works well for me.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINTEX-CERATEC...l-/110927850373

 

[actionstan]

I used this on my last brake job, and really liked it.


http://www.amazon.com/CRC-5359-Caliper-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000M8PZGE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_35



and it may contain what your after "Contains molybdenum, PTFE and graphite for an extreme temperature range of -30F to 600F" I got a bottle of the stuff with a brush applicator from Orilley's I cant remember the cost, I'm wanting to say somewhere around 10$ it will probably last me the rest of my life too..

 

[Donald]

I would continue with sil-glide. It needs to stand up to possible high heat.

 

[doitmyself]

I followed the "Larry Carley" brake lube philosophy for years with great results:

http://www.tirereview.com/Article/113097/brake_lubricants_101.aspx
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-tests/how-to-use-brake-lubricant4.htm

He recommends to never use petroleum based products around brakes.

He recommends to use two types of brake lube:

- a high temperature brake grease for the enclosed pins or slides (rubber bushings)
- a high solids, waterproof "paste" for the weather exposed metal to metal points

Examples of high solids paste are the Honda M-77 (Dow Molykote M=77) and a completely water proof, tenacious product I use called Pastelub http://www.gwrauto.com/gwrmain.html

The idea behind these pastes are that they are VERY water proof, there is less oil to dissipate away, and that the high solids provides boundary (marble like) lubrication.

 

[bigjl]

I always use copper grease on pads but must admit i haven't changed a set of shoes in maybe 15 yrs as they either never needed doing when my cars had rear drums or had discs all round.

Aerosol brake cleaner and a good dab of copper grease has always worked fine.

Will keep an eye on this thread as interested in a better way or product.

 

[galaxy333]

Originally Posted By: bigjl
I always use copper grease on pads but must admit i haven't changed a set of shoes in maybe 15 yrs as they either never needed doing when my cars had rear drums or had discs all round.

Aerosol brake cleaner and a good dab of copper grease has always worked fine.

Will keep an eye on this thread as interested in a better way or product.


The Ceratec I use as in post 2 is great stuff it is made specifically for brakes by Mintex so you know at least it's made by a company who know what they're talking about, and being a top brake manufacturer surely wouldn't sell something for brakes that would be detrimental.
The great thing about it is it is just like your normal grease but it doesn't melt out and it does help stop squeeling pads (nothing like a squeeling pad LOL) then when disasembly is required they come to pieces easily and clean up easy, been using it on various vehicles for about 4 years maybe a bit more and love it.

 

[buck91]

I enjoy these threads and have tried a few things over the years but keep coming back to syl-glyde. It just always works well.

One thing to note is that it may swell some rubber a little (found this out in my yamaha with metal pins on rubber bushings), but doesn't degrade the rubber.

 

[Silverado12]

I always use anti-sieze on the bolts and don't put anything on the back of the pads (except the provided shims), but I live in a southern climate where we see very little road salt. But when we do, we use the 1999 Jeep Cherokee.

 

[artificialist]

I have a tube of the CRC stuff, and it works. I have worked with guys using Sil-glide and they never have problems either.

So I say just get the one that is easier to find.