Program E fan to come on sooner?

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DrDusty86

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I put a 180* T-stat in my car about 7 years ago and then another 180* T-stat 3.5 years ago. I have a SCT programer that allows me to adjust fan temps. I dialed the fan temps 7* lower with the stat. The factory stat was a 195*. I split the different on the fan temps. I always see movement on my temp gauge. Dad, recommended that I dial the fan on temps back another 8* to match the Tstat temp differences. I was thinking dialing the fan back another 8* would cause it to run 90% OF the time the car is running and wear it out MUCH faster. He said it would be better for the motor not to have the temperature swings that it currently sees and it wouldn't make it wear out appricatively faster.
Should I dial the fan back so it starts 8* sooner?
The car is a zx2 Escort
 
I DON"T CARE about fuel economy dude or I would have asked about it. If you don't want to bother reading my posts or answering the questions I ASK, don't post.. it's THAT simple
 
Do you use A/C? If yes, then its probably already running all the time anyway. What was the factory fan-on temp? 210F or so? If you are already running the 180F stat then I see no reason not to go all the way.
 
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Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
I DON"T CARE about fuel economy dude or I would have asked about it. If you don't want to bother reading my posts or answering the questions I ASK, don't post.. it's THAT simple


Settle down.

The question/statement was valid and reasonable. In reality the underhood temperature difference will be minor/minimal, and given the nature of the cycle and compressor, I doubt it will change system pressure in your AC at all, assuming it is properly designed and not a retrofit of some kind. Everything is designed for a 195F stat, and so all you're doing is sapping economy. It's not like other systems being discussed where the design point is actually above boiling and the temperatures by design are severe...
 
Lowering the engine temps will absolutely cause more engine wear and sludge!
And will possibly fail inspection turn on your cel.
If running cooler was a good thing dont you think the engine company that designed the engine would have done that?

I have been rebuilding engines for over 25 years and i have seen with my own eyes the problems that can happen with a modern engine that runs to cool. I attend at least 25 seminars each year from ford Chrysler VW GM Toyota Nissan MB and in 2 weeks Hyundai not to mention all the engine parts makers and believe it or not the people that designed your engine probably knows it much better than us. Put it back to where it belongs and don't fix it unless it's broken.
 
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
I DON"T CARE about fuel economy dude or I would have asked about it. If you don't want to bother reading my posts or answering the questions I ASK, don't post.. it's THAT simple


If you don't understand the workings of the system and are inclined to post a question about it, I would hesitate with flying off the handle when somebody questions the logic behind your original premise.

Back to your post however:

The T-stat STARTS to open at 180, assuming that it is accurate in the first place. The temperature will then drop (rapidly) when the coolant hits the rad. There is "flutter" here until some equalization is reached with respect to the T-stat being mostly/fully open, which will likely occur somewhere around 185. I use a 10 degree buffer relative to the starting-open temperature with an e-fan install. My Town Car had a 180 T-stat and the fan (a Mark VIII fan, which is huge and moves an obscene amount of air) came on at 190.

I found that this meant that the fan never came on with highway driving, only in traffic or in-town, which was where it made sense for it to come on. Temperatures were well controlled and the fan would drag the temperature down to around 182 before shutting off. It would then take a while to get back up to 190 to kick it back on again.
 
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
I put a 180* T-stat in my car about 7 years ago and then another 180* T-stat 3.5 years ago. I have a SCT programer that allows me to adjust fan temps. I dialed the fan temps 7* lower with the stat. The factory stat was a 195*. I split the different on the fan temps. I always see movement on my temp gauge. Dad, recommended that I dial the fan on temps back another 8* to match the Tstat temp differences. I was thinking dialing the fan back another 8* would cause it to run 90% OF the time the car is running and wear it out MUCH faster. He said it would be better for the motor not to have the temperature swings that it currently sees and it wouldn't make it wear out appricatively faster.
Should I dial the fan back so it starts 8* sooner?
The car is a zx2 Escort


My car shipped with a 203 stat. I run a 176 motorad and have my fans set at 185 low speed and 195 high speed.

In my car the HS fans can be triggered by AC high side pressure and transmission fluid temp as well as coolant temps. And most fans will quickly burn out if operated at high speed for excessive amounts of time. Yet you must warm up to at least 180 in less than ten minutes in this and many other vehicles or you will set a code. So you must experiment.

It is also interesting to note that my huge two fan assembly is only 100 bucks brand new and installs in minutes very easily.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
So my first question is why are you running with a colder thermostat than the factory calls for.


Because Chrysler programming is so sensitive that the second the coolant is over 185 degrees or so the pcm pulls timing like crazy. After datalogging the car extensively for KR values I found huge gains just with this one simple mod.
 
##SCT programer implies performance tuner##
He's running more advanced timing so he needs to run a little cooler.
This is usually recommended by the tuner company.
Although I don't see the point in such a small motor.
 
Performance gains would be minimal and your may not get hot enough to purge the water and fuel contaminates. If you must run more timing you should add more fuel but that would require camshaft replacement to make any gains. A professional dyno tune will optimize timing and fuel mixture which will lower combustion chamber temperature if that's what you are after.
Running a 180 degree tstat in a stock engine is a waste of time.
 
An engine that runs 200-210 will have less wear than the same engine that runs 180-190. It will also have a much better ring seal. If your programmer pulls timing above 180 I would find a way to trick it into thinking its running cooler than it is with a resister between the coolant temp senser and the computer.

This way you could run it at 200-210 but the computer would think it's at 180 and not pull timing.
 
Another option is to trigger your fan off the radiator temp, like with one of these. If you trigger the fan with the rad at 160 and your engine is at t-stat temp of 180 or whatever then you never get into a situation where engine plus radiator are slowly heat cycling together up to a higher preset fan temp.

The only issue could be if your relay triggering from an external source freaks out your engine computer and throws a code. However, since you seem to have control over this, you might be able to tune that code out.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
All this hang wringing over a Ford Escort?


HAHA! No kidding.

Like said, put it to stock and don't give it a second thought! Shouldn't have given in a first thought.
 
I didn't buy it for the motor performance tune. I bought it for the trans programing. A NA gas engine get almost no noticeable power from a tune. I'm just wanting to lower under hood temps.
If it increases wear, I haven't seen it. It has over 6700 hours on the motor and compression and leak down are at the top range of fatory spec and all within 3%

My diesel uses the OEM stat. and runs up to 225* when pushed HARD. If I run a lower temp in it, the radiator could NOT keep the temp down. The car can.

BTW, I KNOW WHAT KIND OF CAR I DRIVE, so [censored] ARE YOU MAKING A BIG DEAL ABOUT IT.Jesus I have asked a VERY SIMPLE QUESTION AND 90% OF THE RESPONSES ARE JUST NOT ANSWERING THEM AND B S.
 
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