Preventive Maintenance

Status
Not open for further replies.
One more time, changing brake fluid is no substitute for replacing old, worn rubber parts including brake hoses. Very little mention of inspecting CV boots. Who adjusts worm drive steering boxes?

Mostly, I stick fairly close to the owners's manual. Except for a few head gaskets, that has kept large, expensive failures away.
 
That's a good point. I've had 4 different vehicles (only one was mine) blow up a brake line. It always happened when the vehicle was getting to be 10 - 12 years old. It's easy to spot bad brake hoses as they'll have very fine cracks in them or they'll be "sweating" brake fluid. I saw this on a fire truck once... The metal lines are tricky, I suppose the rule of thumb should be to replace them if the ends are difficult to undo. I removed two sets of 20+ year old brake lines on my motorcycles, they were in great shape but nothing like good old stainless braided lines.

Here's some more:
Packing wheel bearings is a necessity on some vehicles.
Doing an alignment with each set of tires can't hurt.
Undercoating every year is mandatory up here.
Looking for heat damaged wiring connections will prevent break downs.
Putting air in your spare tire will pay off if you ever need to use it.
Put anti-sieze on any bolt that you remove while working on the car.
Getting your distributor timed is good, even on EFIs.
Change your rear seal and transmission seals when you do the clutch.
Get your diesel injectors rebuilt every so often (I don't know when, but it helps when done on bad ones)
Clean out any vents on the diffs and transmissions during a service or they'll pop the new seals.
Change the shocks and springs every so often.
Get the body polished and waxed yearly, shampoo interior.
If you can get to it check to see if the EGR can move.
Use parking brake daily to prevent seizing.
Adjust valves as per manual.

Stare at your car for an hour a week, you'll notice something.
smile.gif


Cheers, Steve
 
quote:

Originally posted by John K:
ALS - what are you driving that has 317,000 miles on it? I have never gotten much over 200K, usually due to rust or I tire of driving one vehicle that long...

1987 Volvo 740 Station Wagon with a 4 cylinder Turbo motor with a 4 speed manual transmission with a electric OD. I replaced the motor at 283K due to rod knock. New motor has 35K on it and should be happy to at least 500K miles with a steady diet of M1. I really like the car so driving it is a joy. It's a Volvo owner thing if you have never owned one you will never understand our fascination with the cars.
grin.gif
The owner of a local shop I use had an older gentleman dropped off his 1976 240 wagon
2 weeks ago and ask if he could disassemble it and use some of the parts on other cars. This guy didn't have the heart to take his car to a junk yard.

[ December 31, 2004, 03:31 PM: Message edited by: ALS ]
 
Brake fluid changing is a new thing to me. And until recently never really knew it was something that had to be done. I can't find it in my user's manual for maintenance schedules for my Cars ( 01 Honda CR-V and 96 Accord).

I change oil every 5K miles with Mobil 1 5w30 with OEM filter. Flush every 3 years for the radiator. Wash the cars every week or two and wax every season. Air filter, was K&N now Wix, change prolly every 15-20K miles. I will have to check it after every oil change. Trans and differ. fluid every couple years. It really helps! Plugs on the Accord once a year. CR-V has plats. I take the cars to the shop once a yearvfor their annual check-up....
 
quote:

I would only replace the water pump if it is leaking. My experience is when the bearing is starting to go it will leak. Usually that gives you plenty of time to arrange for the repair. If you change coolant every two years or more frequent, I would expect the water pump may last well over 100,000 miles, perhaps closer to 200,000.

If the waterpump goes on my Audi the timing belt will skip and the valves will kiss the pistons good-bye. Waterpump failure is the number one reason for destroyed Audi motors. Waterpumps on Audis don't usually last more than 100k miles. Every well-informed Audi owner is aware of this issue. When the timing belt is replaced every 60-90k miles or 4 years, the added cost of $80 for a new waterpump is negligible. A timing belt change on our cars goes for about $1000-$1200 at the stealer, or if you do it yourself, the parts will run you about $300, while labor is maybe 6 hours.
 
On pre-'96 BMWs, the plastic impeller of the waterpump was prone to shattering with age and mileage--with potentially catastrophic consequences, e.g., warped cylinder heads. Even with the newer waterpump design, the tech guru for Roundel, the BMW Car Club of America magazine, recommends thermostat and waterpump replacement at 60K miles, and radiator replacement at 120K on the 3-series and 5-series (not sure about X5's like chefwong's though).
 
quote:

Originally posted by JMG:
Brake fluid changing is a new thing to me. And until recently never really knew it was something that had to be done. I can't find it in my user's manual for maintenance schedules for my Cars ( 01 Honda CR-V and 96 Accord).
snip....


In the real world, for a street vehicle, I think it is more important to renew the aged, worn rubber parts of the brake system than to change the brake fluid. Most brake problems come from components with little if any contact with the brake fluid. Timely preventative rebuilding of the wheel cylinders and calipers every few pad changes will replace the brake fluid long before it causes any problems. Do you know anybody that ever had problems with the brake fluid boiling? There are some people here that have their mind made up on this matter, and go on about potential problems which seldom happen.
 
quote:

Originally posted by TallPaul:
My experience is ...

Ok, guess I should have defined "my experience" as being mainly older Fords. Should have figured there probably are 101 ways to pump water and/or build a water pump, some not so good.
 
I'm with TP ..this forum is the first time I have EVER heard of a preemptive water pump replacement. I mean has anyone, short of ..let's say having the impeller actually erode over decades, EVER had one give less than 100% service until failure?? Given the typical expense and unlikelyhood of this being an easy job on the east-west FWD engine (dentists and surgeons come to mind) ..why would anyone do this when no symptom is present?
confused.gif


Now if you're spinning some Euro piece to 9000 on a regular basis and the wp is a PROVEN weak link ..then sure. Unless someone has some statistical data on wp failures ...I'll keep mine with 165k, 91k, 132k (just replaced on Taurus - leaking) and so on until I know it needs it. The item just isn't like a whining power steering pump ..or an alt bearing.

(visions of Eddie Murphy asking the cheif of BH "Is this a black thing?") ...is this something that magically evolved like bi-annual brake fluid changes?
grin.gif
 
Gary, I'm truly surprised this is the first time you've heard of it. It's quite acceptable to replace the (still working) water pump when doing a timing belt change on most FWD vehicles. This is for two reasons.... water pumps are considered consumable items because of shaft seal wear and have to eventually be replaced, plus the labor overlap is tremendous to 'get in there' twice compared with the small cost of a water pump. This mantra has been repeated often on many automotive web sites.

For other designs (such as the BMW question that originated this thread) I agree to wait until failure to replace the water pump.
 
quote:

I'm with TP ..this forum is the first time I have EVER heard of a preemptive water pump replacement.

In case I wasn't clear, I mentioned preventive WP change in regard to Audi (VW too) models in which the WP is driven by the timing belt, and not any other marque. Whether or not you've ever heard of preventive WP change being common doesn't change the facts. It's unfortunate that Audi and VW decided to have the WP driven by the timing belt instead of the accessory belt. The belt only has to skip a tooth or two to cause massive engine damage. Ask any authorized Audi dealer. Ask any independent shop that works on Audis. Ask over at audiworld.com. Ask all those guys who had waterpumps fail and consecutive engine damage. Ask Quattro Pete and Audie Junkie, 'cause I'm just a paranoid freak.
wink.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by Kestas:
...on most FWD vehicles. ... plus the labor overlap is tremendous to 'get in there' twice ..

Oh yeah.
blush.gif
Guess I am living in another world. I have only had one front wheel drive (married into it 15 years ago, but replaced with a rear wheel drive), so my experience is even more limited. I definitely agree that a relatively low priced component that costs an arm and a leg to get at should be replaced when things are apart for some other reason.
 
As I think about it, I have replaced the water pump on almost everything I have ever owned. I have never owned anything with a timing belt. I really have to agree with the idea of doing the water pump while you are in there changing a timing belt. I think all my water pumps were still pumping fine, but started leaking. You can tolerate a small leak for a while. Prudence suggests changing the pump at a convenient, prearranged time once it starts leaking.

I support new ideas that have facts and logic to back them.
 
By the way, I have very low confidence in any WP. On both, my Chevy and Buick, a new WP would always start leaking within 10 or 15k miles, no matter what.

One of the issues with the WP for the Audi is that on the US market aftermaket parts rule, and some of them are complete crap. There's one pump that has a plastic impeller that likes to slip on its shaft, which isn't as bad as the bearing failing. Replacing the WP isn't a big deal once half the front end has been removed.

The topic of this thread was PREVENTIVE maintainance -- as opposed to fixing broken items like leaky WPs. Maintainance, which in my understanding is always preventive in nature, is something done to prevent component failure even if it means prophylactic part replacement. Don't-fix-it-if-it-ain't-totally-broken isn't part of my philosophy.

PS: Nice to see labman has come to his senses. I hope it's not just the champagne speaking.
wink.gif
 
Anybody have a clue why the engineers put important, failure prone components including thermostats and water pumps on the back side of the engine, about as accessible as the back side of the moon? I hate to think of the inevitable having to change them on my 02 Ecotec. Actually the thermostat on the Quad 4 I had was on top of the engine, but under a clutter of hoses, wires, thingamabobs, etc. leaving the bolts untouchable. Why not out front near the radiator? It seemed to work with longitudinal engines. Why has everybody copied the MB stupidity of putting the water pump at the top?
 
On the 95-97 Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique with the 2.5L V6, the waterpump impeller (made of plastic) would shear off typically at around 60 or 70K miles.

That happened with my first Contour (3 blocks from home thankfully..I heard a belt squealing under the hood for a half second, then noticed the temp gauge was in the red zone when I parked it). When I called the dealer about it and told them it's overheating (still had an extended warranty), the $#@%%$ stupid service advisor asked me if the radiator was full of coolant!

The second one, the waterpump started leaking before the impeller ever sheared off, so it was replaced (not by the dealer, I'd given up on 'em at that point).

The new waterpump impellers are either made of metal or have a different color plastic impeller.
 
quote:

Anybody have a clue why the engineers put important, failure prone components including thermostats and water pumps on the back side of the engine, about as accessible as the back side of the moon?

Production/assembly efficiencies, has little to do with ease of maintaining.
 
quote:

Gary, I'm truly surprised this is the first time you've heard of it. It's quite acceptable to replace the (still working) water pump when doing a timing belt change on most FWD vehicles.

Absolutely! Never cover the same ground (and pay for it) twice. I had the timing chain checked out on my daughter's Taurus when the WP was being replaced. The cover was exposed. No brainer. Chain had slack ..it got replaced.
quote:

By the way, I have very low confidence in any WP. On both, my Chevy and Buick, a new WP would always start leaking within 10 or 15k miles, no matter what.

If this is the case ..you must be the 1 in 250,000 units that makes up the MTBF (mean time between failures) statistic. You are bucking some serious odds on that rate of failure. Assuming that you don't tighten the belts with a pipe extension and keep the auto in LOW and ONLY shift after the engine has dwelled at the redline for a few seconds ...keeping undue stress on the WP bearings at very high rpms ...I don't see how this is possible for one human in mulitiple vehicles.
 
quote:

If this is the case ..you must be the 1 in 250,000 units that makes up the MTBF (mean time between failures) statistic. You are bucking some serious odds on that rate of failure. Assuming that you don't tighten the belts with a pipe extension and keep the auto in LOW and ONLY shift after the engine has dwelled at the redline for a few seconds ...keeping undue stress on the WP bearings at very high rpms ...I don't see how this is possible for one human in mulitiple vehicles.

I had the work done on those cars. I never touched them myself. The dealer wanted to use the GM coolant pellets (the product name escapes me now) as a permanent solution. Could be a fluke. I had a brand new VW once that needed three new fuel tanks in the first 6 months. It also need the alternator replaced a few times. A Monday car? As for the Audi WPs, they do become a liability after 60-80k miles. I would never again buy a car with an interference motor.
 
Morning all......... And happy new year hope your year is great. Mine sucked this last year and will be better!

Of all the replies I think they are good advice but........ Not one person mentioned replacing the cam cams and crank oil seals.

I just follow the book and when I have the timing belt exposed I replace it anyway even if it has 15 k on it. And that does include the seals when ever it is open they go
tongue.gif


Have my head off now do to a head gasket failure. Which was my fault. Should of used a better gasket and retorqued the head bolts a few times.
Use GMB water pumps and have never had a failure with them.

Don't forget to name your car baby it and pamper it and it will love you back
fruit.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom