preferred cleaner and lubes data call

[JHZR2]

Hi,

There is a LOT of info on here; Ive never really read much in the firearms section on BITOG before.

However, Id like to put out a data call... My background is this: I own a marlin .22 bolt action, a marlin 94 .38/357 rifle, a beretta 390 shotgun, a S&W 686 .38/357 revolver, a Walther PPK .380, and now, my fiancee owns a new Beretta M9. Ill likely be buying a kimber tactical custom II .45 ACP and likely also a S&W .22 revolver or target gun before too long, to round out my shooting options.

I want to ensure that Im taking the best care of my stuff that I possibly can. Ive typically cleaned with hoppe's #9 and used a silicone cloth for the exterior. Probably not the best care procedure. Ive minimally oiled my guns, and though theyre rust free and shoot great, well, oiling is fun, and optimizing the protection is important to me... Im mostly concerned with keeping them like new and functioning 100% as long as possible. I know that Im likely a bit behind in this regard, though none of my guns has more than 500 rounds through it... most only have 100-200. Ive tried to 'break them in' by doing the shoot, clean, shoot, clean process, though its usually more like shoot 25, clean, shoot 25, clean, as I have to do it at a range, so logistics are tough. We dont get out shooting too much, but hope to do more shooting as time goes on.

So, Ive read a lot on here, seen a lot of good products, etc. Ive read about rust prevention - that a waxy lube is optimal (this is important to me, since sometimes my guns sit locked away for months without me looking at them, so Id hate to open the case up one time and find rust everywhere)...

Id like to know, from as many folks as possible, what products you use, for what applications, and what cleaning interval you use. I like to clean after every shooting session. I dont know if some of the higher end stuff is too strong for use after every 50-100 rounds, etc.

So, any information would be great. We need not discuss the efficacy of te different products, I can get that well enough by searching on here. Im more curious about your method and your preferrd products to keep your various stuff in tip top shape. Info on acessories (the bore snake, various brushes from different makers, even which cleaning rod is best) would also be most appreciated.

Any info would be really great. Thanks for your help!

JMH

 

[Shannow]

I've always used ed's red (with lanolin) for powder, and hoppes #9 for copper.

I use the hoppes, because it's gentle...takes a few days to get it out rather than minutes.

Then store after running a wet patch of Ed's red through it, and wiping over with same thickened with a bit more lanolin and some petroleum jelly.

Recently bought Molakule's "Purple Problem Solver", and have been impressed, although I haven't used it on copper as yet.

my .22s are the only rifles I have issues with WRT cleaning.

I know that they take a few rounds to settle down, and there are no fouling shots in our competition. But I hate how the powder residue gets wet when I put the rifle away dirty.

 

[416Rigby]

I use Hoppes Elite to remove powder fouling. It's very effective and non-toxic. Sweets 7.62 and Barnes CR-10 are what I use to remove copper fouling--both are very powerful, use sparingly. For lube, I use TW-25, FP-10, and Tetra Lube. They are all equally good, so it doesn't matter which you choose. Finally, for rust-prevention, I use EeZox. It's the best at preventing corrosion during storage, or carry.
I avoid all-in-one products, like CLP, because they don't do any one job very well. As for cleaning kits, just get a universal kit, and add brushes/jags/etc. as you need them.

 

[metroplex]

Break Free CLP.

Use the copper remover when you get into the thousands of rounds region.

I've tried dedicated lubes, dedicated cleaners, etc... and I keep going back to CLP.

CLP, IAW MIL 63460, is what FN Herstal recommends for its line of weapons: P90, F2000, M240, M249, etc... all the fun stuff that see full auto use all the time. Now if CLP is good enough for the military/government for use in full auto military weapons, it sure as heck will work with Remchester bolt-guns.

 

[Blokey]

I super anal about cleaning my guns. My shooters are: Colt Anaconda, 1991A1, Trooper Mk. III, Peacekeeper, Python, Double Eagle; Browning Hi-Power; S&W SW40F and a Beretta 87.

I'll take a couple to the range and when I get home after the session, I'll completely clean each gun.
I field strip pistols and give each gun a once over (inside and out) with BC gunscrubber. I'll then immerse the barrel in a glass jar of Hoppes #9 while I scrub each piece in and out with a nylon brush and more #9. Barrels and cylinder charge holes are then scrubbed with #9 using a nylon barrel brush followed by a couple cotton patches soaked in #9 using a plastic jag.
Everything then gets a once over with BC gunscrubber again. Magazines get BC gunscrubber in and out after a swabbing with a #9 soaked patch.
With everything clean and dry, I go over each part with a patch dampened with EEZOX. Barrels and revolver charge holes are swabbed with an EEZOX dampened patch using a plastic jag. Actions are lubed through all access holes with EEZOX using a dropper and then cycled. High load areas: frame/slide rails and revolver contact points (bolt, hand/star, cylinder pin) are given a small spot of Colt T6 grease.
Occasionally when I shoot the rimfire revolver (Trooper) in the basement using Aguila Super Colibri powderless ammo, I'll just run an EEZOX dampened patch through the barrel and charge holes when I'm done.

This may sound like a time consuming job but I enjoy doing it and I only go shooting a couple times a year so it's really no big deal for me.

 

[trenace]

Some cleaners are damaging (albeit very slowly) to barrels. An excellent source of info is http://www.schuemann.com/ , under Barrel Cleaning.

Personally I prefer Kroil or Ballistol for barrel cleaning, using only patches and optionally nylon brush. Neither of these can damage metal. Kroil is a penetrating oil, while Ballistol is I don't know what, but it's non-toxic, dissolves copper, is somewhat of a lubricant, and is a good cleaner.

For corrosion resistance and lubrication, as well as immersion cleaning or dipping of the entire gun (except where rubber, polymer, wood, or paint may be issues),I prefer Eezox. It has been demonstrated in many tests by others to be tops for corrosion resistance and is a good lubricant too.

Kroil or Ballistol can also serve as immersion cleaners when concerned about polymer or paint; if wood or rubber is an issue then I'm unsure of the Kroil being OK, it being a penetrating oil, but Ballistol is fine.

For a lubricating oil, I like Militech-1, but add a little Corrosion-X to it (about 1 part in 4) to give some corrosion resistance to it, as Militech is quite weak in that regard. Corrosion-X is very close to Eezox for corrosion resistance, but is oily, whereas Eezox is (I believe) trichlorethylene based, which evaporates, leaving a very thin-film lubricant / corrosion-preventative. Corrosion-X is apparently an excellent lubricant as well.

For a grease, Brian Enos' Slide Glide (sometimes this is mixed with Militech/Corrosion-X.)

For exterior protection, on top of the Eezox (which for the exterior I find best applied by using a microfiber rag that has had Eezox applied to it and then allowed to dry, that way one doesn't have to guess on final result or wait on Eezox to dry) followed by Harly Wax, which is an exceptionally good carnauba wax that apparently, for the wax portion, actually is 100% carnauba -- most "carnauba" waxes contain it as only a minor ingredient. It also has a very good softener so it goes on without the slightest bit of any of the problems typically associated with waxes.

[ February 28, 2006, 06:58 PM: Message edited by: trenace ]

 

[trenace]

Correction, "Militech-1" is properly spelled Militec-1. For some reason I am not allowed to edit.