Post your motorcycle oil/filter/spare parts stash

Joined
Jul 28, 2025
Messages
321
There's plenty of "post your stash" type of posts on the other sub-forums. I didn't see one here. I'm pretty well stocked up. I do bikes for other people, but also like to stay well-stocked for myself. My two main bikes are a 1977 Honda CB550K and a 1979 Honda CM400A. I also have a 1974 Yamaha DT250 and a few Puch Maxis. Every single part was either bought from a dealer, David Silver Spares, CMSNL, Partzilla or in some rare instances, eBay. The drain plug washers were purchased from Amazon. As much as I love OEM parts it is very silly (imo) to spend so much for a single washer. I replace them every time.

20260320_110130.webp

20260320_110135.webp


(Yes, there are some resistor plug variations for customers that request them. I also run the NDs myself as they're easily available and a few cents cheaper. Never had an issue with one.)
20260320_110148.webp
20260320_110152.webp


Many valve cover gaskets and valve cover bolt grommets. You never know when Honda will decide to stop making these. The aftermarket ones are terrible quality and leak soon after. Some people try to use them for multiple seasons. I've never had good luck with that. Instead, I clean the cover once a year and use hondabond where it mates to the cover (note: NOT from gasket to head!) as this is how it was done OEM. Always grease these types of gaskets and o-rings before assembly. Valves are checked every oil change which is around 1500-2000 miles. Sometimes I stretch it to 3000 if I'm doing a lot of riding and time is short.
20260320_110200.webp

20260320_110203.webp


20260320_110219.webp

20260320_110223.webp


Custom gaskets for the torque converter (yes, the CM400A is a true automatic) cover from Cometic. Based off of NOS gaskets I had in my collection. This is a necessary procedure for it to come out every 10,000 miles to adjust the balancer chain. The ones available on eBay from various vendors are made of cork, too thin (clearances are critical or shifter will not work), and always a hole off somewhere. Not worth the hassle.
20260320_110250.webp


I make ignition coil wire with Taylor boots and crimp ends. All wire is 7mm marine grade I get from Summit Racing that I buy in bulk. I do a lot of ignition coil replacement for customers with DynaTek coils. The $20-$50 aftermarket ones are poor quality and usually cause funny running after the bike warms up on these vintage bikes. Critical to use a DynaTek on the 400 twins as it's a true AC-based CDI that requires 0.5 ohm coils. Many vendors are selling 3-5 ohm coils that have the same dimensions and will not work properly in this application. Additionally, the NGK XD05F caps are now discontinued and I have a hoard (not all are pictured here) of them for this purpose. Assortment of OEM bulbs as some are odd wattages that are not available elsewhere. You can go higher and it will work just fine, but my own personal stuff I keep at the stock brightness.
20260320_110304.webp


(Continued in next post...)
 
Many "consumables" and other NOS and some used parts that are necessary for repairs. Various NOS "Gasket Kit A" kits as Vesrah/Athena are very poor quality kits. They usually are missing critical o-rings and dowel pin grommets which cause the bikes to leak oil again a week later.
20260320_110323.webp


Spare DynaTek coils I keep on hand for customers and in the rare event it would fail for myself.
20260320_110333.webp


Large supply of spare boots/crimps from the DynaTek kits. I use the Taylor's so I give these away for free for anyone who will pay shipping (that includes anyone here, just PM me if you want some).
20260320_110338.webp


Assortment of aftermarket bulbs.
20260320_110403.webp


I do a fair amount of VB and PD carburetors. A lot of work was spent on buying NOS kits and measuring. They are not Viton, but Buta-N. Just like the OEM. These come from McMaster-Carr so they are not Amazon junk. Never had a problem running E10 in my bikes for more than 15 years. Not getting into an argument on here about it so please don't.
20260320_110423.webp


Various chemicals. That sure shot was a great investment. I have a needle end on it for cleaning carburetor passageways. I use brake cleaner in bulk for this. Works well. I also have a real ultrasonic (not some HF one).
20260320_110454.webp

20260320_110458.webp


Don't give me a hard time about the T4 and T6. If customers want something else I will use it. This is my personal stash.
20260320_110505.webp


Hope to see your hoard. I'm sure there's others here that try to stay on top of it in bulk for years to come.
 
There's plenty of "post your stash" type of posts on the other sub-forums. I didn't see one here. I'm pretty well stocked up. I do bikes for other people, but also like to stay well-stocked for myself. My two main bikes are a 1977 Honda CB550K and a 1979 Honda CM400A. I also have a 1974 Yamaha DT250 and a few Puch Maxis. Every single part was either bought from a dealer, David Silver Spares, CMSNL, Partzilla or in some rare instances, eBay. The drain plug washers were purchased from Amazon. As much as I love OEM parts it is very silly (imo) to spend so much for a single washer. I replace them every time.

View attachment 329044
View attachment 329045

(Yes, there are some resistor plug variations for customers that request them. I also run the NDs myself as they're easily available and a few cents cheaper. Never had an issue with one.)
View attachment 329046View attachment 329047

Many valve cover gaskets and valve cover bolt grommets. You never know when Honda will decide to stop making these. The aftermarket ones are terrible quality and leak soon after. Some people try to use them for multiple seasons. I've never had good luck with that. Instead, I clean the cover once a year and use hondabond where it mates to the cover (note: NOT from gasket to head!) as this is how it was done OEM. Always grease these types of gaskets and o-rings before assembly. Valves are checked every oil change which is around 1500-2000 miles. Sometimes I stretch it to 3000 if I'm doing a lot of riding and time is short.
View attachment 329049
View attachment 329050

View attachment 329051
View attachment 329052

Custom gaskets for the torque converter (yes, the CM400A is a true automatic) cover from Cometic. Based off of NOS gaskets I had in my collection. This is a necessary procedure for it to come out every 10,000 miles to adjust the balancer chain. The ones available on eBay from various vendors are made of cork, too thin (clearances are critical or shifter will not work), and always a hole off somewhere. Not worth the hassle.
View attachment 329053

I make ignition coil wire with Taylor boots and crimp ends. All wire is 7mm marine grade I get from Summit Racing that I buy in bulk. I do a lot of ignition coil replacement for customers with DynaTek coils. The $20-$50 aftermarket ones are poor quality and usually cause funny running after the bike warms up on these vintage bikes. Critical to use a DynaTek on the 400 twins as it's a true AC-based CDI that requires 0.5 ohm coils. Many vendors are selling 3-5 ohm coils that have the same dimensions and will not work properly in this application. Additionally, the NGK XD05F caps are now discontinued and I have a hoard (not all are pictured here) of them for this purpose. Assortment of OEM bulbs as some are odd wattages that are not available elsewhere. You can go higher and it will work just fine, but my own personal stuff I keep at the stock brightness.
View attachment 329054

(Continued in next post...)
.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom