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Plastic drain plug? For what?
The 2.7 Ecoboost uses a composite (plastic) oil pan. It uses a 1/4 turn plastic drain plug that seals with an o-ring.
Some say to replace them from time to time. I imagine you could replace the o-ring. A visual check for an oil soiled pan lets you know it is time to replace. My guess is, it's a good idea to have a spare on hand...

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The 2.7 Ecoboost uses a composite (plastic) oil pan. It uses a 1/4 turn plastic drain plug that seals with an o-ring.
Some say to replace them from time to time. I imagine you could replace the o-ring. A visual check for an oil soiled pan lets you know it is time to replace. My guess is, it's a good idea to have a spare on hand...

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Oh ok that’s good to know I’ve never seen anything like it.
 
I think a push mower I had from Craftsman came with a Tecumseh 4 hp (?) and used an plastic drain plug . That mower took a beating . The engine ran , but the deck cracked . In use from '96 > 2008 (?) .
 
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Same type of plug on my new Tiguan and it seems to work fine. I bought a new one for changing the oil since it was only a $3 at the dealer.
I was curious as to the heat cycles; would it weaken the plastic? Perhaps the oil filter should have an o-ring for the plug.
You are smart for having a spare.
 
New Thermostat, Thermostat housing gasket and a new pulley bearing for one of the pulleys. All going on my 1989 Mazda B2200 thanks to bdcardinal for giving me the part numbers to take to the dealership and order. I got one of the last few thermostats apparently. The parts guy at my local dealership said it was still available until they are gone because they aren’t made anymore so glad I got one when I did.
 
So the locks started not working in my truck after fixing the e-brake release. Back in June I had the passenger door panel off to replace the mirror and noticed a jumbled mess of wires and 2 relays stuffed into the door indicating an aftermarket alarm of some sort. I took the door panel off and sure enough both with the GM remotes and door lock switches, lock worked and unlock didn't. I could feel and rear the relays clicking when I tried to activate them. I switched the relays and all of a sudden unlocked worked and lock didn't. IMG_1770.jpg These are the relays that were in there. I went to work yesterday and checked and the 5M5Z-14N089-A which replaced the old FOAZ-14N089-A relay matched everything. So I bought 2 of them for under $10. Popped them in and I have locks again!! IMG_1818.jpg

I am planning on taking a day and taking that system out and connecting the factory wires back together with Weatherpack or Deutsch connectors. The factory lock relays were removed from the panel.

I am also waiting for what will break next on this truck.
 
Dupli-Color Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch Up KH3 Super Black/Black Obsidian. Convenient package, saves on having to have primer, basecoat, and clear coat separately. Very easy to use, and good enough for me (which is all that matters.)

I've had Dr. Color Chip previously, in Reflex Silver for my previous VW Jetta...silver is hard to match anyway....but the Dr. Color Chip did at least go on without blobbing...but is pricey. The Dupli-Color did not blob either. I like both, but this system seems easier.
 
New mud flap for my dads semi trailer. Also 2 new bolts too since one was missing but we got an extra in case we needed it. I love using my SAE tools instead of metric lol.
 
Drag link, tierod, king pins, poly bushings for rebuilding the front on my 65 F100. At the same time a dozen Motorcraft oil filters off Rockauto. Waiting on delivery a 1" front sway bar for the Mustang and a 1 1/8" front sway bar for the Park Lane for it's rebuilt suspension.
 
Pair of USA made Moog Problem Solver (Part No. K6541) lower ball joints. Out the door and shipped to home from AAP with a coupon code for $40 off. All in: $128.38. They're going into the SS as soon as my back permits. ^.^
 
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