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I have a fuel transfer pump coming tomorrow for a 2016 cab and chassis Duramax with the dual fuel tanks (23.5 gallon front, 40 gallon rear). The transfer pump is supposed to pump fuel from the rear tank to the front tank as it is depleted. When you refill the fuel tanks, the front will be empty and the rear will still be full. It keeps throwing a P2636 and defaulting the fuel gauge to empty. It has already had the N162051380 revision done so I think the fuel transfer pump is not coming on when commanded. The transfer pump dying on these isn’t too uncommon, but at least it’s easy to get to.
 

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Bit the bullet and bought a Fumoto valve for my 02 Silverado. One downside is the slower flow but I rather have a controlled downward flow than having it shoot out from the side of the oil pan. Also looking to do oil analyses to extend OCI's since my driving is mostly freeway 20 miles round trip.

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Bit the bullet and bought a Fumoto valve for my 02 Silverado. One downside is the slower flow but I rather have a controlled downward flow than having it shoot out from the side of the oil pan. Also looking to do oil analyses to extend OCI's since my driving is mostly freeway 20 miles round trip.

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I've never seen that style before. I'm sure it will hold up well.
 
Premium NAPA front brake pads and discs shipped for $115.

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I've used the Napa Proformer ceramic line on a Ford truck and was not too pleased. Average performance and they lasted half as long as the OE pad. I replaced them with a premium brand off RockAuto (Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic) which was not only cheaper but has so far still outlasted these Napas.
 
Vietnamese-made Walmart special wiper blades for a Frontier I helped sell for a friend. Given the shape of the truck, it sold for a lot.

and a Fram SCOJ for the parents car. My hookup at the local Toyota dealer is gone, and they’re charging MSRP for everything. I can’t use the bigger V8 filters on the Corolla/Prius engines so no point in buying a case of D3 filters.
 
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I ordered a set of front and rear axles with new seals and wheel bearings for a 2011 Yamaha Rhino from East Lake Axle on Monday and received them Wednesday. I put the fronts in yesterday and finished up the rears tonight. I took it for a test drive and it seems to be perfect so far, no noise from the front axles even at full lock on turns. I’ve had a few aftermarket axles that sounded terrible from the time I installed them until they failed, and usually if they start off sounding bad it isn’t too long until they pop.

There was 4,208 miles and 808.0 hours on the Rhino when I installed the new axles and wheel bearings. We’ll see how long they last, aftermarket axles are very hit or miss. I also installed 4 new ball joints on the Rhino that I purchased a while back, also from East Lake Axle.
 
Not for a car, but just bought a deep cycle battery and a cheap chinese diesel heater for my pickup bed camper as I couldn't find the obsolete parts I needed to fix the propane furnace. The heater is a knockoff of the Espar heaters you'd see in truck sleepers and I have high hopes for it.
 
I have a fuel transfer pump coming tomorrow for a 2016 cab and chassis Duramax with the dual fuel tanks (23.5 gallon front, 40 gallon rear). The transfer pump is supposed to pump fuel from the rear tank to the front tank as it is depleted. When you refill the fuel tanks, the front will be empty and the rear will still be full. It keeps throwing a P2636 and defaulting the fuel gauge to empty. It has already had the N162051380 revision done so I think the fuel transfer pump is not coming on when commanded. The transfer pump dying on these isn’t too uncommon, but at least it’s easy to get to.
The transfer pump didn’t fix it like I was hoping. So, I pulled the flatbed off and pulled the fuel sump/sending unit out of each tank. The rear tank float/arm was floating in the tank. Two of the tabs that hold the float arm onto the sending unit were broken off. This truck was T-boned in December and not fixed. I think the side impact sloshed the fuel around pretty hard and broke the arm off. We’ve been having issues with the dual fuel tanks since it was hit, it threw a P2636 while the officer was writing up the accident report. The other driver was 100% at fault in this accident and his insurance paid for the fuel system damage and to replace the flatbed plus all labor. The damage was all to the flatbed. It folded up the front toolbox that was hanging under the flatbed and tweaked the aluminum flatbed just a little. The flatbed hangs over the passenger side just a hair more than it does on the drivers side. I removed the drivers side tool box and it looks fine without it. The accident bent the front mounting brackets for the bed just a little. I’m probably gonna have a friend cut me some new brackets on his plasma table while I have the flatbed off the truck. The ball and hitch mounts are bolted directly to the frame of the truck so there is no concern there as far as damage from the accident goes. I also ordered a new filler neck and cap for the rear tank. The cap was broken off and the filler neck got bent slightly when the truck was backed into something in an unrelated incident. A new cap will not screw into the bent filler neck. GM makes you buy the whole filler neck assembly with the hoses and everything. I also ordered a few other various parts that I need that would ship from the same warehouse since it wouldn’t add anything to the shipping cost. RA has pretty good prices if you can get lucky and get it all to ship from the same place. I used a 5% off coupon.
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2015 Chevy Sonic 1.8l Purge Solenoid - AC Delco

$25.55 out the door . Locally $ 40 - $ 50

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2578856&cc=3309721&jsn=2733
2015 Chevy Sonic 1.8l Purge Solenoid - AC Delco

$25.55 out the door . Locally $ 40 - $ 50

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2578856&cc=3309721&jsn=2733
Had the same problem with my 2005 Buick Century couldn't get the Evap monitor to set. Use some terminal grease on the connector.
 
Not my car, I was visiting a friend up north(NorCal) and he got a fixer-upper 98 F-150 gifted to him. It has spark, no fuel, needed a fuel pump. We drove down to Napa in town and got a Delphi fuel pump/sender assembly. Made in Mexico. The truck would have been running if the fuel tank pressure sensor didn’t snap off like a shrimp’s head when we tried to disconnect it. 🤦‍♂️

but hey, the Delphi pump wasn’t a Chineseium one to my shock. No Bosch or Carter was available locally.

stopped by The Critic’s place, he ordered me a set of Raybestos EHT3 pads and rotors since he needed things anyway. Picked them up for a Chevy Blazer C/K I’m working on.
 
for the Prius:
1 Delphi control arm, made in Turkey. I lucked out on eBay with the right side with a NOS OEM one. Not as lucky on the left side.
2 KYB rear shock mounting kits, I needed the bushings and washer that’s all sold separately at the dealer. Made in India.

Someone’s calling me a goober.
 
Vacuum modulator for the 1994 Explorer's transmission. Shifts fine and not leaking externally, but it's making a lot of noise so time for a new one. I'm sure it's sucking fluid with that much noise, though I haven't had to add any yet. It would be a super easy job, but the converters are in the way. Hopefully being rust free it won't be an ordeal, but I don't think any of it has ever been touched before. Ordered new converter gaskets with the modulator.
 
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