Post your latest oil change

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2018 Subaru Legacy, 2.5L
88,711 miles, about 4,600 on oil

Out: Supertech 0w-20 Full Synthetic (can't recall if it was high mileage or not)
Also, Pennzoil Platinum 0w-20 and Mobil 1 Extended Performance as top-ups (and more Supertech)
Filter: Fram ToughGuard something

In: Mobil Full Synthetic High Mileage 0w-20, Filter: STP S4615

Was hoping for a 6k mile oil change interval, but this car was drinking quite a bit. Went cheap-ish ($25.20 for the 5qt, $7.37 for additional quart), but if the consumption continues I'll spring for the Valvoline Restore and Protect after the next 3,500-4,000 miles.

Would have thrown another Fram on, but they are unobtanium in my size, apparently (at least at Fleet Farm)
 
To be expected with those oil choices, to be quite honest.

Would not delay the switch to Valvoline Restore and Protect. Would go up to 5W-30. Longer you wait, the more likely the cylinders get scored, and it's irreversible.
Was considering 5W-30, got a bit of cold feet on moving from what the cap says. I'm not about to drain out what I just poured in, but I'll give shortening this particular oci a good think.
 
Doing it tomorrow (Easter Sunday)
2014 Ford Fusion
2.5L
242500-ish miles (it's been to the moon and is now on its return voyage)
4000-ish OCI
It's been in the car since November and there were a lot of cold winter days with short city trips.

Out: Valvoline High Mileage 5W-20 and Motorcraft FL910S filter

In: Valvoline High Mileage 5W-20 and Motorcraft FO910S filter
 
What's the oil change history? That's pretty low mileage for burning oil.


Can you post a link to this? I've never heard of this. Are you saying just Quaker State Euro 5W-40?
@tired, thanks for your interest: Oil change history is good, car has 61,000. Many of these use oil. But on this car the PCV system was compromised by a very stiff and rigid PCV flapper valve that I suspect was sucking oil vapors into the engine. I carefully replaced it without having to replace the valve cover, which is a little tricky. I wont know until more miles if either the oil or the PCV repair has improved the situation as I made the changes at the same time. The Quaker State oil I mentioned, I must be mistaken, I believe it was Quaker State Euro Full Synthetic 5W-40, for some reason I thought it was ultimate something, but I used the Euro oil last time from Quaker State.

 
Was considering 5W-30, got a bit of cold feet on moving from what the cap says. I'm not about to drain out what I just poured in, but I'll give shortening this particular oci a good think.
Lots of Subarus have had good luck here resolving oil burning with Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. Strongly recommend it for you.
 
Was considering 5W-30, got a bit of cold feet on moving from what the cap says. I'm not about to drain out what I just poured in, but I'll give shortening this particular oci a good think.
I own a 2018 yes they will start drinking 20 grade oil mine was getting a puff of white smoke with 20 grade. Years ago I moved to a 30 grade stopped almost immediately my recommendation would be Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 I have run in past but I do run HPL currently and have for years with zero use and last change was a 8500 mile interval.

Reason for edit

I should clarify I own a 2.0l Crosstrek the recommendation still the same.
 
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Lots of Subarus have had good luck here resolving oil burning with Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. Strongly recommend it for you.
@tired

Can you educate me on why Subaru’s burn oil the way they do? The wife and I had considered an Outback prior to the RAV4 purchase we made in December.
 
Happy Easter everyone!

Ended up doing two services yesterday, first was my 2021 RAM 3500 6.4:

Out: Mopar oil and Filter (had it serviced at the dealer last August after a 2500 mile trip towing our camper)
In: Pennzoil and a Fram XG I had in my stash.

I also rotated my tires. I used my UniJack for the first time, which was a blessing with this heavy truck and tires. Saved over an hour I am guessing. Totally recommend this combination bottle jack / jackstand.

My 17 year old daughter pulled in the driveway with her ‘98 Ranger and told me she’s “200 miles away from being due for her oil change!! You have everything out already, soooooo….” Luckily, I had everything in stock lol.

Out: Motorcraft oil and filter
In: Motorcraft oil and an XG Fram I had in my stash.
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Doing it tomorrow (Easter Sunday)
2014 Ford Fusion
2.5L
242500-ish miles (it's been to the moon and is now on its return voyage)
4000-ish OCI
It's been in the car since November and there were a lot of cold winter days with short city trips.

Out: Valvoline High Mileage 5W-20 and Motorcraft FL910S filter

In: Valvoline High Mileage 5W-20 and Motorcraft FO910S filter
Edit: FL910S, not FO910S as I mis-typed in the last line.
 
2010 Chevy Cobalt 2.2L
81,022 miles on vehicle
3,325 miles on oil
Out: Kendall 5w30 synthetic blend, Service Champ CF5436 filter
In: Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30, Purolator One PL15436

Got to use my VEVOR oil extractor for the first time, it pulled around 4.6l (4.86qt if Google's calculations are right) - the car holds 5qt so this seems very sufficient. First time trying Valvoline Restore and Protect, will run this for 4k miles, to 85k then switching to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for 5k intervals. Looking forward to see if the dipstick varnish is cleaned at all from the Valvoline Restore and Protect (took a picture of the before). Part of me wants to run the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum until the oil monitor is at 0% just to see how far it goes, 3k is still 70% on the dash; the timing chain issues with these cars and old habits is the only thing stopping me for now. With the Ultra Platinum being on-sale at Walmart, the $30 rebate, and the Purolator One's being on closeout on RockAuto, looking at around $18 per oil change for at least the next two.
 
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@tired

Can you educate me on why Subaru’s burn oil the way they do? The wife and I had considered an Outback prior to the RAV4 purchase we made in December.
I'm not a Subaru expert but I believe it is related to the boxer engine and piston ring design. With the horizontal pistons, oil pools in the bottom of the cylinders instead of draining back into the engine in a traditional engine design, and you combine that with low tension rings, and you will start burning.

Some will disagree with me, but I think you made an excellent choice with the Toyota. In my (obviously limited) anecdotal experience, they all burn oil eventually, even on "good" oils. All my friends with a Subie have a jug of oil in the back! A boutique oil like HPL or AMSOIL, Valvoline Restore and Protect, or a solid Euro offering with MB 229.5 approval is the only way to stop it from starting. Valvoline Restore and Protect will fix it many times.
 
Changed the oil on my friend’s 2020 Impreza today. 67,658 miles on the car.

In Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 and a Wix XP filter.

Would have gone Amsoil 0W-30 but for the fact that this car is short tripped and the fuel dilution means pretty frequent changes and I didn’t want to “waste” the Amsoil.
 
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