Post your latest oil change

Electromotive said:
That is a sharp looking bottle, "oil drops" company name logo, color scheme, and such. The design/graphics group has a winner for sure. And packaging as we all know helps sales for certain. I have never seen Schaeffer oil products in my area (east central GA).
Click to expand...
I had to call one of their reps and in the process I found out they carry Schaeffer oils at NAPA. I've used Schaeffer oils for about 5 years now.
 
2017 Jeep Renegade, 52,184 miles, about 8k on the old oil.

Out: Dealer bulk 0w20 oil (I'm guessing PP or Pennzoil Gold), Mopar filter. (My wife had them change the oil while at the dealership for a misfire.)
In: Shell Rotella Gas Truck 0w20 from my stash (bought on clearance at AZ a good while back) and a Fram Tough Guard filter.

I run this car to the OLM. It has the 2.4 engine. We'll keep it around for another 250k, barring any major issues.
 
I'm no M1 fanboy but their bottles thread perfectly in Toyota/Lexus UZ engine filler necks.
2001 Toyota Tundra V8 188k miles.
Out: M1 5W30 - Toyota filter.
In: M1 5W30 HM - NAPA Gold filter.

IMG_0240.JPG
 
2006 Chevy Impala LT 3.5L (136,214)

Out -- 4 quarts Quaker State All Mileage 5W30 & half a quart of Rislone High Mileage Engine Treatment & ST Oil Filter (2113 OCI) Car used 3/4 quart during this short OCI interval. Oil came out super black which I am sure between Quaker States additive package & the Rislone --- some cleaning was done.

In -- 4 quarts of Chevron Supreme Synthetic Blend 5W30 SP & Rotella Gas Truck 5W30 half a quart paired with another ST Oil Filter

Ps. Female friend of the Family, told her to check her oil level every time she fills her tank moving forward.
 
Last edited:
Another tough OC.
2011 Nissan Sentra 2.0 S
113255 miles on MR20DE engine.

Out: SuperTech Mix (5w20 Full Syth SN, and 5w30 High Mileage Full Synth SP).
In: SuperTech 5w30 High Mileage Full Synth SP (and < 1qt of fresh left over mix listed above) whatever comes out to 4.12 qts or 3.9L, which is what the Owner Manual states, but is always beyond the H mark on the dipstick, which makes it hard to tell if any oil is getting "used" because when I check it over time, it seems to still be above the H mark, whether checked hot or cold.

Off: AC Delco PF1237 Oil filter
On: AC Delco PF1237

I guess I forgot how to change oil, or I don't know anymore, or I'm not doing something properly.

This is the 2nd oil change where I have had extreme difficulty in removing the oil filter.

The first oil change I ever did on this car was in May 2020 (I got the car August 2019, and I'm not sure when the oil was last changed prior, so the oil could have been in about a year). The ACDleco PF1237 filter came off no problem with the strap/band filter wrench, which was probably a little bigger than the filter. I installed a Denso 150-2002 filter.

The next OC, the Denso filter came off, no problem, again with the strap/band filter wrench. It was replaced with a Fram TG6607 filter.

Ok, so 3rd change, and the Fram TG just would not budge. The strap/band wrench just would not grip, it kept slipping, and it seems it is now bent out of shape, and the rivets/welds where the strap comes together (I don't know how to describe precisely, but you get the picture), seem to be not as strong. I had a heck of a time, and finally, a pair of large ChannelLock/water pump pliers worked, and the poor TG6607 filter became mangled beyond recognition as a result. It was replaced with an ACDelco PF1237 filter.

So, now, this most recent change. Again, I could not get the darn filter to loosen. My set of oil filter wrenches/pliers (the kind with "shark" teeth, lol) I purchased, just didn't want to grip. I purchased two different wrenches, and they just scrape the paint off. So, I had to use the water pump pliers again (which have no teeth, and don't grip well, either, but I can crush the filter which allows a better grip to be had) and the filter again became mangled. But before I could use the water pump pliers, I could not get good enough purchase, so I had unclamp one end of the the coolant hose, and it puked coolant into my oil catch pan. I was finally able to get the filter off. I replaced the filter and reconnected the coolant hose, and refilled the oil and coolant. I have not had to disconnect one end of the coolant hose the previous 3 times doing OCs on this car, so why now this time?

So, why are these last two oil filters so difficult to remove? I do not use a wrench to tighten the filters; I just spin them on until I can't turn any more. I also give a good smear of fresh new oil on the o-ring (except for the Desno, which was pre-oiled). I don't recall if I put oil on threads, but I generally do. I have used my MityVac 07400 fluid extractor for every oil change going back a couple vehicles, and never encountered this issue. Is it possible the vacuum created by the MityVac is sucking these filters on tighter? What am I doing incorrectly? It's not like these last 2 filters were on for an extremely long time.

I just can't figure out what I've been doing wrong. These last 2 changes, I didn't warm up the engine, so I extracted the oil "cold", but outside air temp today was around 80°. Could that be it?

I certainly do not want to drain nearly a gallon of coolant out again any time soon, so what am I not doing right? Although, since I don't know when or even if coolant was changed out, it has about a gallon of fresh Peak OEM Asian Blue, mixed in with whatever was left, so that's at least an upside.
 
Kokopelli34179 said:
Another tough OC.
2011 Nissan Sentra 2.0 S
113255 miles on MR20DE engine.

Out: SuperTech Mix (5w20 Full Syth SN, and 5w30 High Mileage Full Synth SP).
In: SuperTech 5w30 High Mileage Full Synth SP (and < 1qt of fresh left over mix listed above) whatever comes out to 4.12 qts or 3.9L, which is what the Owner Manual states, but is always beyond the H mark on the dipstick, which makes it hard to tell if any oil is getting "used" because when I check it over time, it seems to still be above the H mark, whether checked hot or cold.

Off: AC Delco PF1237 Oil filter
On: AC Delco PF1237

I guess I forgot how to change oil, or I don't know anymore, or I'm not doing something properly.

This is the 2nd oil change where I have had extreme difficulty in removing the oil filter.

The first oil change I ever did on this car was in May 2020 (I got the car August 2019, and I'm not sure when the oil was last changed prior, so the oil could have been in about a year). The ACDleco PF1237 filter came off no problem with the strap/band filter wrench, which was probably a little bigger than the filter. I installed a Denso 150-2002 filter.

The next OC, the Denso filter came off, no problem, again with the strap/band filter wrench. It was replaced with a Fram TG6607 filter.

Ok, so 3rd change, and the Fram TG just would not budge. The strap/band wrench just would not grip, it kept slipping, and it seems it is now bent out of shape, and the rivets/welds where the strap comes together (I don't know how to describe precisely, but you get the picture), seem to be not as strong. I had a heck of a time, and finally, a pair of large ChannelLock/water pump pliers worked, and the poor TG6607 filter became mangled beyond recognition as a result. It was replaced with an ACDelco PF1237 filter.

So, now, this most recent change. Again, I could not get the darn filter to loosen. My set of oil filter wrenches/pliers (the kind with "shark" teeth, lol) I purchased, just didn't want to grip. I purchased two different wrenches, and they just scrape the paint off. So, I had to use the water pump pliers again (which have no teeth, and don't grip well, either, but I can crush the filter which allows a better grip to be had) and the filter again became mangled. But before I could use the water pump pliers, I could not get good enough purchase, so I had unclamp one end of the the coolant hose, and it puked coolant into my oil catch pan. I was finally able to get the filter off. I replaced the filter and reconnected the coolant hose, and refilled the oil and coolant. I have not had to disconnect one end of the coolant hose the previous 3 times doing OCs on this car, so why now this time?

So, why are these last two oil filters so difficult to remove? I do not use a wrench to tighten the filters; I just spin them on until I can't turn any more. I also give a good smear of fresh new oil on the o-ring (except for the Desno, which was pre-oiled). I don't recall if I put oil on threads, but I generally do. I have used my MityVac 07400 fluid extractor for every oil change going back a couple vehicles, and never encountered this issue. Is it possible the vacuum created by the MityVac is sucking these filters on tighter? What am I doing incorrectly? It's not like these last 2 filters were on for an extremely long time.

I just can't figure out what I've been doing wrong. These last 2 changes, I didn't warm up the engine, so I extracted the oil "cold", but outside air temp today was around 80°. Could that be it?

I certainly do not want to drain nearly a gallon of coolant out again any time soon, so what am I not doing right? Although, since I don't know when or even if coolant was changed out, it has about a gallon of fresh Peak OEM Asian Blue, mixed in with whatever was left, so that's at least an upside.
Click to expand...
I just replaced my ACDelco filter yesterday and it was also difficult to remove. I attributed this issue to one of two things (#2 is the most likely cause):
1. My gorilla grip allowed me to overtighten the filter last time. I turn as far as possible by hand which is usually about 3/4 turn past the contact point. This is consistent with the instructions.
2. I changed the oil with the engine cold, whereas I usually change with a warm engine. The heat would make the filter easier to remove. This is consistent with the issue described by @Kokopelli34179.

Regardless, my filter pliers were able to crush the can slightly and remove it.
 
Drewster01 said:
@Kokopelli34179, I was gonna suggest oiling the filter ring but I see you did. Are you installing more than a half turn after contact?
Click to expand...
Yes, I do "oil", but it may not have been enough. I put more of a thick bead on this time, with my finger, so we'll see, and I'll be sure to run the engine for 10-15 mins beforehand and then let it cool for about 10 mins or so.

I just spin it on, and then stop when the filter stops. I don't think it's even half a turn after contact.
 
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