Post your latest differential oil/transfer case change

Dumped the diff at 6,500 miles. Next will likely be around 50-60k.

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2008 3/4 ton Burb with Magna Power Train (MP) 3024 transfer case. Owners manual said use Dexron 6 but several dealers said use Auto Trak II. I‘m thinking there was some confusion because the build sheet said Auto Trac, Anyway I've been using Auto Trak II every 50,000 miles for 16 years and 225,000 miles. This time I did a change after 25,000 miles. That was probably too soon and there was only a bit on the magnet and the fluid hardly changed color. Auto Trak II is blue in color and costs almost twice as much as Dex 6. Some mechanics call it Smurf fluid. The new fluid is on the left and the old is on the right. You can’t see much of a difference. I

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Nice ride. I've always admired the GS cars.

My personal opinion is that nothing changed after your fluid drain and fill. That said, I always "notice" something different too, myself. So it's not just you.
 
Nice ride. I've always admired the GS cars.

My personal opinion is that nothing changed after your fluid drain and fill. That said, I always "notice" something different too, myself. So it's not just you.
You are just being logical again.... Ha!
I serviced our '01 Tundra a couple of weeks ago; it also seemed to smooth out the drivetrain a little.
 
Just joined today while learning about differential oils. Been learning here and online today.

Purchased a 2022 2WD SR5 Tundra for towing a 5000 pound trailer and going to replace rear differential oil at 1000 miles. It has a limited slip differential and required oil is Toyota LT 75W85 GL5 or equivalent. Redline states their 75W90 GL5 is compatible and a replacement for "Toyota/Lexus Gear Oil LT/LX" oils. Before replacing the differential oil, wanted to gain input on an equivalent replacement differential oil.

Thanks,
 
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen 4Motion. 72.5K miles.

Haldex service with Febi fluid and Racingline magnetic drain plug/fill plug. Cleaned screen on Haldex pump - was pretty clean. 32.5K miles since last service.

R. differential service with Redline MT-90 75W90 gear oil. First time servicing the r. diff. Oil that came out looked clean.

F. bevel box service with Redline MT-90 75W90 gear oil. Couldn't get the fill plug out so had my shop do this one. First time servicing the bevel box.

I use FCP Euro for my fluids/etc. so sent back the old Haldex fluid/filter/hardwar for a full refund/used PayPal for purchase so got return shipping for free.

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Swapped the DPF filled 2017 CR-V diffy with same Honda DPF. Now I have none left, but should be a good while. I changed it out originally early in life.

Fluid looked just fine.

Tiny fuzz on magnet.

This fluid just smells of oil, no sulfur component in the aroma. Wish there was a VOA - I would like to try something else...............hahahahaha.........
 
Just joined today while learning about differential oils. Been learning here and online today.

Purchased a 2022 2WD SR5 Tundra for towing a 5000 pound trailer and going to replace rear differential oil at 1000 miles. It has a limited slip differential and required oil is Toyota LT 75W85 GL5 or equivalent. Redline states their 75W90 GL5 is compatible and a replacement for "Toyota/Lexus Gear Oil LT/LX" oils. Before replacing the differential oil, wanted to gain input on an equivalent replacement differential oil.

Thanks,
Normally I would just wait until 10k to change the oil, but yes, if I just spent that kind of money on that beautiful monster I admit, I would do it too. So you're towing a 5000 trailer which will put you in the "Towing and severe service" category for maintenance and rear diff oil weight, probably push your gear oil weight up to maybe 7W-140 weight gear oil. Look in your owners manual for fluids and capacities and look at the severe service column.
I have used Mobil 1 75w-140 and it gave me no trouble with OCI every 40k miles. First change at 10k miles though.
 
2011 BMW 328i X-Drive
Front and rear differential

Out: Most likely factory fill
In: 2 liters of Redline 75w-90 GL-5
It was a messy change, the rear was easy - 5 mins. The front took forever, due to having to remove the splash shield and reinforcement plate.
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2006 Infiniti M45--152696 miles

Drained the rear differential fluid. I doubt it's ever been changed (we bought the car at 142k). The fluid as it drained out looked somewhat translucent, but there was so much iron on the drain plug magnet that it wasn't even funny. Probably a good 1/8" thick of crud all around it. We cleaned the fill and drain plugs with WD40 (both take a 10mm hex) and wiped them down good before reinstalling with fresh crush washers at 25 ft. lbs. Used Valvoline Synthetic 75W90 to fill it back up. Will do it again in about 6 months to get the rest of the crud out. It's not a hard job (other than breaking the bolts loose) but now that they are properly torqued the next time should be easier.

Absolutely no noticeable difference in how the car drove after we did it.
 
2006 Silverado 1500 4WD -- 203K miles
Out: Auto Trak II @ a 30K OCI (Black!)
In: Auto Trak II @ just over 2 qts.

Ready for Winter... Love my old Gen III 5.3L truck.

Diffs will be done soon enough. They were done around 50K miles ago.
 
2020 JLU Rubicon - annual lubricant change (rear axle only)
Out: Delo ESI 80W90
In: Delvac 1 75W90


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2007 Honda Ridgeline--rear differential
103,130 miles

Interval: 41,270 miles
Out: dealer fill of Honda VTM-4 fluid (actually looked very good with negligible gunk on the drain plug magnet)
In: DIY fill of Honda VTM-4 fluid

At age 71 I don't see myself doing this again on this vehicle. It's just too much effort to save $65. Oil and ATF changes yes, rear diff no.
 
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'88 Chevy K1500; with high-mileage but somewhat newer '92 K2500 9.5" rear axle with G80 Gov-Lock that I swapped-in.

Initial change was with Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90. Gov-Lock quit working soon afterwards. Wouldn't engage--acted like an open differnetial just like the previous axle. Dropped the axle cover, expected to see chunks 'n' pieces in the bottom of the housing. No. Looked terrific inside.

Second change was with Valvoline 80W-90 non-synthetic, having no limited-slip additive blended-in by Valvoline or by me. Label says "for top-off only of positraction differentials". (i.e., there's no friction modifier in this stuff, it shouldn't be a full-fill for a posi differential.) Gov-Lock still didn't work. Dropped cover, still looked beautiful inside. All the G80 pieces seemed to be in order and functional.

Third change again with the same Valvoline 80W-90 non-synthetic, no limited-slip additive. Gov-Lock seems to be working again, at least partially if not fully.

Good luck figuring out which "Genuine GM" axle lube to use in an older Gov-Lock. All the GM part numbers have been superseded at least once if not more. GM has a bulletin on Gov-Lock axle lubes that's poorly-written (ambiguous) and suggests a lube part number that doesn't exist any more. The best I can tell, the "correct" lube has a "grape juice" scent; and might be ACDelco 10-4016. Depending on which web-site I check, there's a warning that that fluid is for Camaros and NOT FOR TRUCKS. Go figure. I'm sticking with the cheap Valvoline conventional, ZERO-friction-modifier stuff until proven different.

I'll use the same Valvoline when I finally get around to poking a TrueTrac into the '97 K2500 in a few days.
 
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'88 Chevy K1500; with high-mileage but somewhat newer '92 K2500 9.5" rear axle with G80 Gov-Lock that I swapped-in.

Initial change was with Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90. Gov-Lock quit working soon afterwards. Wouldn't engage--acted like an open differnetial just like the previous axle. Dropped the axle cover, expected to see chunks 'n' pieces in the bottom of the housing. No. Looked terrific inside.

Second change was with Valvoline 80W-90 non-synthetic, having no limited-slip additive blended-in by Valvoline or by me. Label says "for top-off only of positraction differentials". (i.e., there's no friction modifier in this stuff, it shouldn't be a full-fill for a posi differential.) Gov-Lock still didn't work. Dropped cover, still looked beautiful inside. All the G80 pieces seemed to be in order and functional.

Third change again with the same Valvoline 80W-90 non-synthetic, no limited-slip additive. Gov-Lock seems to be working again, at least partially if not fully.

Good luck figuring out which "Genuine GM" axle lube to use in an older Gov-Lock. All the GM part numbers have been superseded at least once if not more. GM has a bulletin on Gov-Lock axle lubes that's poorly-written (ambiguous) and suggests a lube part number that doesn't exist any more. The best I can tell, the "correct" lube has a "grape juice" scent; and might be ACDelco 10-4016. Depending on which web-site I check, there's a warning that that fluid is for Camaros and NOT FOR TRUCKS. Go figure. I'm sticking with the cheap Valvoline conventional, ZERO-friction-modifier stuff until proven different.

I'll use the same Valvoline when I finally get around to poking a TrueTrac into the '97 K2500 in a few days.
Owned GM LT’s & SUV’s since 1985 … never used the grape stuff - Delvac 1 mostly … but Valvoline conventional is good lube - just can’t run 100k etc … 30k changes should be no sweat … use a clear straw to sample periodically if concerned …
 
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