Post Your Latest Coolant Change.

[Jimmy9190]

My 2018 Nissan Rogue
QR25 4 cylinder
Out: Original Nissan Blue
In: 1.5 gallons of 50/50 mix of Peak Asian Blue Concentrate and distilled water
The Nissan manual says to drain and fill the original coolant at 7 years or 105,000 miles. The car only has 67,400 miles on it but it turned 7 years old last month. I used the OEM Tools coolant funnel kit, it really did make the job a lot easier.

 

[Kennedy01]

1973 Chevrolet ElCamino
Vortec based 383 stroker with LT4 hot cam
Radiator, radiator hoses replaced, radiator drain and fill
Out: Havoline green premix
In: Providence green premix, Redline Water Wetter

 

[ripcord]

Quick and dirty coolant change on a bullnose Ford F-250 with a 7.3 IDI diesel which has been parked since 2013.

Drained about 6 gallons of conventional green coolant from the radiator. Then, disconnected a heater hose from the water pump and used a funnel to pour several gallons of distilled water through the heater hose to flush most of the coolant from the block and heater core.

Refilled with just over 4 gallons of conventional green concentrate, two pints of Wix DCA2 SCA and topped off with distilled water.

Estimated coolant concentration is ~57% which should give freeze protection down to -50f in chilly Montana winters.

 

[Kennedy01]

2013 Toyota Camry 2.5 4 cylinder
Replaced water pump and thermostat, radiator drain and fill
Out: unknown pink coolant
In: Zerex Asian pink premix

 

[FTTSHO]

2001 Chevy Blazer 4.3L Vortec. About 106k miles.

Previous owner used plain tap water and Dexcool for god knows how many years in the cooling system, so my cooling system was heavily rusted when I bought it two years ago. I used to have overheating problems because of this. So, I flushed the cooling system with prestone radiator cleaner and distilled water literally more than 10 times about a year ago. Went through 12 gallons of distilled water. The coolant was pretty clean afterwards, so I thought I was good!

Then a year went by. The car drove great, and never had any overheating issues. I opened the radiator cap last week, just to check it out, and my coolant was looking like muddy water again. No sludge or chunks in it this time, it just looked like “brown coolant”, so I decided to remove ALL the rust in the cooling system. By the way, I have done pressure tests and coolant combustion gas tests etc to verify I don’t have any head gasket issues.

I flushed the cooling system with 8 gallons of distilled water, then poured Evaporust in the cooling system with some distilled water. Drove it with Evaporust for 3 days, then I drained the coolant yesterday. The Evaporust drain was nasty, the water was completely black.

After draining the Evaporust, I flushed the system with 10 gallons of distilled water, until clean water started coming out. I also removed all the hoses, and flushed the block, the heater core, and all the hoses with distilled water. Not even a little bit of tap water will ever go in my cooling system.

Then I filled the system with Prestone Max coolant. The coolant is still kind of dark looking, but it is green now.

So here’s the plan! I will from now on just drain the radiator and put in fresh coolant about every 4 months. The coolant should always stay clean if I do this. Rust is never a good thing, because rust particles will wear out water pumps and rubber seals overtime.

I want to keep the cooling system clean, because I absolutely do not want the heater core or the radiator to rust through and start leaking, and I plan on keeping the truck for a long time, because it’s got low miles for a 2001.

 

[troymcclure]

2012 Fit. Second coolant change in its life - first one done by dealer at 9 years. Heard the block plug is a bear to get off so I elected to do a radiator double drain and fill with Zerex Asian Blue which achieves about 90% new coolant in the system - same as draining the block. Zerex Asian Red was $5 cheaper and o debated using it, creating an unholy purple mix in the process but thought it would be too confusing for anyone working on it on the future. Used a no spill funnel. Took almost 35 min for the rad fan to turn on for the first time so I revved the engine to speed that part up for the second change. Very easy to bleed. Old coolant was likely Honda Type 2. Little darker than the Zerex, maybe from age or the difference in dye. Looked clear and pristine. No sediment. Expansion tank was pretty clean - just some black residue at the bottom that rinsed out easily (what is the origin of that stuff?). Also changed the petcock o ring and rad cap with OE Honda parts. Coolant level in the expansion tank only dropped a tiny bit after a few drives. Hardest part was coolant disposal - only three places in San Francisco are listed by the city to take coolant and SF Honda refused when I called in, despite being listed as a site. Valvoline Instant Oil Change obliged happily saving me from a drive to the antifreeze station at the city dump. Good to know for when I do this again in 5 years.

 

[nthach]

. Hardest part was coolant disposal - only three places in San Francisco are listed by the city to take coolant and SF Honda refused when I called in, despite being listed as a site. Valvoline Instant Oil Change obliged happily saving me from a drive to the antifreeze station at the city dump. Good to know for when I do this again in 5 years.

I’ve had luck with getting Oil Changers in Oakland and Richmond to accept used coolant. VIOC in Martinez was easier by far.

 

[Kennedy01]

2007 Lincoln Town Car
4.6 V8
Replaced thermostat, radiator drain and fill
Out: unknown green/gold coolant
In: Prestone AMAM premix

2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
4.8 Vortec V8
Replaced water pump, radiator hoses, heater hoses and connectors
Drained from lower hose and filled
Out: unknown orange coolant
In: Shop Pro orange premix

 

[panthermike]

Sister-in-law's 2018 RAV4:

Out- likely factory fill Toyota pink
In- Peak Asian vehicle 50/50

All in all was about a gallon and a half or so. Fluid looked fine in the reservoir, but looked pretty dirty while draining. 117,437 miles.

 

[DirectRejection]

2024 Toyota Corolla Cross Hybrid
Toyota Genuine Super Long Life Coolant
In n out

59,433 coolant change interval.

 

[panthermike]

My friends 2019 Forester:

Out: FF
In: Zerex Asian Blue

87,050 miles. Fluid not too bad. Was able to get the car into coolant fill mode due to TCV Subaru uses and took a long time to get all the air out.

 

[1000MPH]

2010 4Runner. 150,819 miles. Interval is 31,032 miles and 42 months.
Radiator drain and fill only. Just over 1 gallon. This is the third coolant change.
Got my coolant from Lewis Toyota for under $19/gal, thanks to a BITOG contributor for the recommendation.
Out: Toyota SLL
In: Toyota SLL

 

[Carlostrece]

Peak Titanium in my 97 Buick Park Ave. Complete flush and refill a few months ago.

 

[69GTX]

2001 Lincoln Continental with 74K miles. It's been on standard green coolant since day 1.
Did 3-4 drains and fill on the radiator.....allowing time for the thermostat to open on the 2nd and later drains.

Added 6 qts of fresh Zerex Green Valvoline. Sort of surprised my final concentration only came out to be about 40/60
or good to around -10 deg F. Will have to work on that at a later time. The 2 yr old coolant looked pretty clear and
had around 10,000 miles on it. Maybe a longer change interval next time?

 

[ripcord]

Drain and fill of of 08 Expedition with Zerex G-05. After draining the radiator and blowing out both heater cores (gently) with compressed air, I managed to replace 12 out of 21 quarts. This is the 4th drain and fill in 270k miles and the old coolant came out nicely clean. G-05 has been good stuff in my experience in this rig and a couple of Chrysler products over the years.

 

[Carlostrece]

A few months ago when I bought Peak Titanium for my 97 Buick (at recommendation of Peak tech support) it was Peak's new product.

A few months ago Oreilly already stocked Peak Titanium 50/50, and it was expensive. Oreilly did not stock Titanium concentrate. No other local stores stocked Titanium 50/50 or concentrate.

So I bought Peak Titanium concentrate from Amazon. It was expensive and shipping damage occurred. I got a free replacement, but it was a hassle.

A few months later, currently my local Oreilly has had a $5 price reduction on Titanium 50/50. So it's now a good price. Oreilly is also now stocking Titanium concentrate.

 

[JGmazda]

A few months ago when I bought Peak Titanium for my 97 Buick (at recommendation of Peak tech support) it was Peak's new product.

A few months ago Oreilly already stocked Peak Titanium 50/50, and it was expensive. Oreilly did not stock Titanium concentrate. No other local stores stocked Titanium 50/50 or concentrate.

So I bought Peak Titanium concentrate from Amazon. It was expensive and shipping damage occurred. I got a free replacement, but it was a hassle.

A few months later, currently my local Oreilly has had a $5 price reduction on Titanium 50/50. So it's now a good price. Oreilly is also now stocking Titanium concentrate.

Nice. I'm currently using Peak 10X in my '01 Buick. Any idea of how the Titanium differs compared to the 10X?

 

[Carlostrece]

Nice. I'm currently using Peak 10X in my '01 Buick. Any idea of how the Titanium differs compared to the 10X?

I'm not an expert on coolant, but I can tell you what others at BITOG have told me. Peak All Vehicles is I think the proper name of the Peak 10x you referred to. It was 2EHA free until sometime in 2025 when it was reformulated. The new formulation now contains 2EHA, or so I've been told.

Word at BITOG (at least from most members) is 2EHA can become corrosive to the lower intake gasket in GM cars of a certain era. I think that is why orange Dexcool isn't desirable (at least according to many people, though some like Dexcool).

Good Peak brand (2EHA free) options for our Buicks I was told are Peak Global Lifetime and a few other Peak coolants. I don't remember the names of the others.

About that time, Peak introduced Titanium coolant. Peak tech support recommended I use Titanium in my 97 Buick instead of Global Lifetime. I don't know why Titanium was recommended, but I'm pretty sure it has no 2EHA.

I think Global Lifetime or Titanium are probably both good options for our Buicks. I suggest getting whichever is lower cost or more available in your local area.

I suggest do NOT order liquids from Amazon because they sometimes arrive damaged and leaking. That happened to my order of cooking oil and my order of Titanium concentrate (two separate orders from Amazon). I suggest only buy liquids locally.

As for the exact differences between Global & Titanium, I have no idea.

 

[JGmazda]

I'm not an expert on coolant, but I can tell you what others at BITOG have told me. Peak All Vehicles is I think the proper name of the Peak 10x you referred to. It was 2EHA free until sometime in 2025 when it was reformulated. The new formulation now contains 2EHA, or so I've been told.

Word at BITOG (at least from most members) is 2EHA can become corrosive to the lower intake gasket in GM cars of a certain era. I think that is why orange Dexcool isn't desirable (at least according to many people, though some like Dexcool).

Good Peak brand (2EHA free) options for our Buicks I was told are Peak Global Lifetime and a few other Peak coolants. I don't remember the names of the others.

About that time, Peak introduced Titanium coolant. Peak tech support recommended I use Titanium in my 97 Buick instead of Global Lifetime. I don't know why Titanium was recommended, but I'm pretty sure it has no 2EHA.

I think Global Lifetime or Titanium are probably both good options for our Buicks. I suggest getting whichever is lower cost or more available in your local area.

I suggest do NOT order liquids from Amazon because they sometimes arrive damaged and leaking. That happened to my order of cooking oil and my order of Titanium concentrate (two separate orders from Amazon). I suggest only buy liquids locally.

As for the exact differences between Global & Titanium, I have no idea.

Thank you for the info and advice! Yes, I switched to Peak 10X for the specific "Non- 2EHA" chemistry as my 2001 LeSabre was receiving a full intake and and gasket removal awhile back. I wasn't 100% convinced the DexCool was the perfect coolant and hold that opinion today. Next change will most likely be the Titanium if it is indeed, free of 2EHA. And yeah, seems a bit risky ordering liquids through Amazon. Thanks!

 

[Carlostrece]

Thank you for the info and advice! Yes, I switched to Peak 10X for the specific "Non- 2EHA" chemistry as my 2001 LeSabre was receiving a full intake and and gasket removal awhile back. I wasn't 100% convinced the DexCool was the perfect coolant and hold that opinion today. Next change will most likely be the Titanium if it is indeed, free of 2EHA. And yeah, seems a bit risky ordering liquids through Amazon. Thanks!

BITOG is a good source of info about many things, but I don't think anyone here is yet familiar with Peak Titanium because it's a new product. BITOGers are more familiar with Global Lifetime because it's a good product that's been available for years.

Another source of info is to call the manufacturer tech supp and ask them to recommend a non 2EHA option for your Buick. They'll probably recommend Titanium as a non 2EHA option. When I asked the guy why he recommended Titanium instead of Global Lifetime he gave me the vague answer that Titanium is their newest and best. Titanium is the newest, but is is it really better than Global? He didn't (or couldn't) tell me any reason why Titanium would be better than Global.

I think they're both fine. If anything, Global might be better because Global is (supposedly for lifetime of car while Titanium is for 10 years.

I do like Peak brand. I also like Zerex (Valvoline). Walmart Supertec coolants are good too (at least for sure the ones made by Peak for Walmart).