Post your latest brake job

2017 Kia Sorento. Not sure how the heck it made it in. Both rears completely annihilated

Out: not much of anything
In: Carquest pads, rotors, and calipers


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2015 Silverado 4x4 5.3 58,188 miles
Out with the factory rear pads and installed Brembo red pads (PRC) from rock auto. Rear rotors are still decent which is amazing for New England. Outboard pad worst and almost to metal. Piston side not much better.
Removed the Bendix Metlok fleet semi metallic from the front and installed Brembo silver pads (PRC) from rock. Only used the Bendix ~10k mi, awesome stopping power but tired of cleaning wheels every other week.
Front Rotors have 10k and are in good shape. See how these Brembo work after they wear in a bit. Made in China.
 
Did the front brakes on my sisters 2013 BMW 328i last week. Not sure what happened to the drivers side rotor it developed a huge groove in the rotor face on the drivers side and warped badly but the passenger side was fine. I used a Powerstop Z17 kit I think it came with auto specialty rotors fixed the problem and stops great. I used the same type of kit on the rear 2 years ago those are still doing fine.
 
2011 Honda Fit - see above post #251.
Car is in Bakersfield so we decided to do the work remote. The young man had never done a brake job, so I sent him numerous YT videos. Jakob said there were tools. I talked him through proper cleaning, prep, lubing, etc. He calls this morning and the 3/8 ratchet and 11/16 socket were no match for the 17mm caliper bracket fasteners. And this kid is pretty strong/healthy. I told him about double wrenching, looking for a pipe, but no luck. I suggested he try to rent from Reilly or buy a breaker bar from HF, which he did. Jakob had a few more questions; there are broken and damaged lugs, but he got the job done! Bravo! They may drive up next week and we can pound out the lugs. Brakes are now smooth and quiet; I suggested a pad bed-in procedure.

I told Jakob I would put together a tool starter kit. @Trav @The Critic (and others) do you have a suggestion for decent cheap tools? I was thinking the HF Quinn? Thanks in advance.
 
Rear pads and rotors, LR caliper and also 2 rear wheel bearings on a 2012 crv. No idea what the old part were, but replaced with a carquest caliper, Powerstop pad and rotors, and some Moog bearings. Moog use to be considered a good brand, but I be heard some bad things recently, we will see. What is the go to brand for suspension/bearing these days?
 
2011 Honda Fit - see above post #251.
Car is in Bakersfield so we decided to do the work remote. The young man had never done a brake job, so I sent him numerous YT videos. Jakob said there were tools. I talked him through proper cleaning, prep, lubing, etc. He calls this morning and the 3/8 ratchet and 11/16 socket were no match for the 17mm caliper bracket fasteners. And this kid is pretty strong/healthy. I told him about double wrenching, looking for a pipe, but no luck. I suggested he try to rent from Reilly or buy a breaker bar from HF, which he did. Jakob had a few more questions; there are broken and damaged lugs, but he got the job done! Bravo! They may drive up next week and we can pound out the lugs. Brakes are now smooth and quiet; I suggested a pad bed-in procedure.

I told Jakob I would put together a tool starter kit. @Trav @The Critic (and others) do you have a suggestion for decent cheap tools? I was thinking the HF Quinn? Thanks in advance.
To be honest, the reappearance of Sears tools should be enough for a shade tree mechanic. @AutoMechanic has been warranting old Sears tools lately. Maybe he can tell us what his Sears tools source is.
 
2011 Honda Fit - see above post #251.
Car is in Bakersfield so we decided to do the work remote. The young man had never done a brake job, so I sent him numerous YT videos. Jakob said there were tools. I talked him through proper cleaning, prep, lubing, etc. He calls this morning and the 3/8 ratchet and 11/16 socket were no match for the 17mm caliper bracket fasteners. And this kid is pretty strong/healthy. I told him about double wrenching, looking for a pipe, but no luck. I suggested he try to rent from Reilly or buy a breaker bar from HF, which he did. Jakob had a few more questions; there are broken and damaged lugs, but he got the job done! Bravo! They may drive up next week and we can pound out the lugs. Brakes are now smooth and quiet; I suggested a pad bed-in procedure.

I told Jakob I would put together a tool starter kit. @Trav @The Critic (and others) do you have a suggestion for decent cheap tools? I was thinking the HF Quinn? Thanks in advance.
Tekton and Capri are great options too. Quinn is also pretty good. Pittsburgh is also good for chrome and impact sockets. Also check out Duralast from AutoZone really good stuff for the money I use it everyday at home and work. Not sure if you have Advance Auto out there or not but if you do DieHard is also great for the money as well. Don’t rule out pawn shops either. We had a pawn shop here that would let us fill up a box with any tools that would fit for $20 because they only cared about guns and jewelry and I found some great stuff that way. Modern Craftsman isn’t bad either but I still like the OG USA Craftsman too.

Sounds like he might need some metrics. I’m surprised 11/16 worked it’s usually very loose on 17mm fasteners since it’s more of a 17.5mm.
 
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2014 RAV4 Limited
148k miles
This car is new to me and i knew right away that it needed rear brakes (and a few suspension parts).

Off: original 13 y.o. Toyota pads and rotors

On: Advics ceramic pads and Wagner painted rotors

Flushed the old fluid from all four calipers with Valvoline DOT3/4.

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The old pads and slide pins were seized and hadn't moved in a long time. At least the pins were not pitted...I threw away the little black sleeve on the bottom pin, thoroughly cleaned the bracket and seals, lubed up the pins, and hit the brackets with some paint.

The pass side parking brake assembly was rusty but serviceable with some cleaning and lube. The driver side not so much...the shoes fell apart and the backing plate was so rusted that new shoes could not be mounted. One option is to replace the backing plate and parking brake assembly for $300+. Another option is to remove the brake assembly and tie off the actuator. I chose option B for now, given that I only drive on flat surfaces with this car and it is not a manual trans. At some point I will bite the bullet though.

I hate working on cars from the rust belt!
 
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23 Nissan Titan Pro-4X @29750 miles - Rear brakes and Rotors. Fronts to be completed in the near future
Out:
Originals
In: Rotors, Raybestos R300 (982078PER); Pads, Bosch Blue (BE2032H). Used new hardware (clips, springs and boots).

Fluid was replaced last year with ATE Type 200 so did not bother with bleeding this time. Will complete bleeding after the fronts brakes are overhauled. A couple of shots after a light bedding process. A bit more to go but the brakes work well.

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23 Nissan Titan Pro-4X @29750 miles - Rear brakes and Rotors. Fronts to be completed in the near future
Out:
Originals
In: Rotors, Raybestos R300 (982078PER); Pads, Bosch Blue (BE2032H). Used new hardware (clips, springs and boots).

Fluid was replaced last year with ATE Type 200 so did not bother with bleeding this time. Will complete bleeding after the fronts brakes are overhauled. A couple of shots after a light bedding process. A bit more to go but the brakes work well.

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<30k and factory kit worn out?
 
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