Post your latest 2 stroke mix

Mixed up 5 litres of E0 91 octane with some Shell Advance Ultra Snowmobile at 40:1. I like the lighter blue dye. Almost looks tropical lol.
 
Near where I am, E0 is hard to get, and expensive. 93 octane E0 is about $10 / gallon right now.

So I figured I could just remove the ethanol from the plain 93 octane E10 by adding extra water, which causes the ethanol/water to settle out at the bottom.

I did this using a see-through vessel, and just suctioned out the settled out water-ethanol mix from the bottom using an industrial syringe.
I made some 1:40 E0 mix with this method, adding the correct amount
of M-1 synthetic 2T oil, and some sta-bil. Works reasonably well in all my 2T ope.
Tried the diy E0 in my 4T mower, and it runs a lot better, that it did with the
regular E10 with sta-bil.

OTOH, I can get some pre-mixed SEF 1:40 E0 at TSC for $5 per quart.
Has synthetic oil in it, and said to be good for 5 years.

A lot easier Easier to store and manage, and I do not have to mess with gasoline.
(My family keeps calling me Molotov, and they think I am bound to set myself on fire. Hmm... the SEF almost seems to make sense, if for no other reason than to stop the fam from making jokes)
 
What have you mixed lately?
Several I've tried recently:

Pennzoil Air Cooled 20:1 in VP Racing SEF94.
Putoline MHX (from Holland, long discontinued) SAE50 mixed 30:1 in a 50% mix of 91 E-free + 50% 110 E-free VP Racing pump gas.
Next up: Lubegard Premium 2 Cycle oil at 25:1 (same gas blend as above, or might try VP C9).
 
I presently have a 5 gallon container of 87 octane E-0 mixed at a 40:1 ratio using Lubrication Engineers 8104 oil. I run this in my leaf blower and string trimmer.

I do a much smaller mix using 87 octane E-0 fuel at a 32:1 ratio using Schaeffer's 706 TC-W3 for my Lawnboy.

I recently removed the head of the mower and noticed brown deposits that appeared to be remnants of the low-ash oil that I had been using. After this revelation I started using the recommended TC-W3 oils.
What are your observations with the Lubrication Engineers 8104 oil, compared to other oils you've used? Have you done any engine teardowns or just looked at the piston/cylinder after running it awhile? Curious to know if it leaves a decent oil film behind, and if piston rings stay free and clean etc.
 
What are your observations with the Lubrication Engineers 8104 oil, compared to other oils you've used? Have you done any engine teardowns or just looked at the piston/cylinder after running it awhile? Curious to know if it leaves a decent oil film behind, and if piston rings stay free and clean etc.
I don't care for the 8104. It's only average at best. One strange thing to note is that it will completely clog a fuel filter with some sort of clear jelly which seems to be in the mixture. I have tested this twice and gotten the exact same results. (filter used for testing is a NAPA Gold 3011 12 micron in-line cellulose filter)

According to some test protocols, a low-ash oil with a high calcium content can agglomerate in the presence of high moisture and lead to filter plugging. As an example, the NMMA TC-W3 test protocol allows for only 20% filter plugging for certification caused by this phenomenon. The 8104 fails this requirement miserably.

The oil leaves a dirty wash pattern on the piston dome but I have not noticed any signs of ring sticking. The wetting ability/residual coating of the oil is not nearly as good as oils such as Red Armor, Honda HP2, or even Opti-2 at lean mix ratios. Exhaust port cleanliness is only average and compares to the JASO FB rated Stihl HP Ultra. In my experiences, the only oils that have ever caused ring sticking in my OPE have been castor bean based products such as Blendzall green label racing castor and Klotz BeNol.

I will not purchase 8104 in the future because there are so many other superior lubricants readily available and at a much reduced cost. My local LE distributor/representative is also not a good person to do business with and therefore gives me no desire to consider their product.
 
Stihl MS 500i and 201T chainsaw I use VP SEF with Motul 800 off road at 40:1. All other Stihl tools (4mix and 2 cycle) I mix Stihl Ultra with non ethanol 90 octane fuel at 50:1.
 
I don't care for the 8104. It's only average at best. One strange thing to note is that it will completely clog a fuel filter with some sort of clear jelly which seems to be in the mixture. I have tested this twice and gotten the exact same results. (filter used for testing is a NAPA Gold 3011 12 micron in-line cellulose filter)

According to some test protocols, a low-ash oil with a high calcium content can agglomerate in the presence of high moisture and lead to filter plugging. As an example, the NMMA TC-W3 test protocol allows for only 20% filter plugging for certification caused by this phenomenon. The 8104 fails this requirement miserably.

The oil leaves a dirty wash pattern on the piston dome but I have not noticed any signs of ring sticking. The wetting ability/residual coating of the oil is not nearly as good as oils such as Red Armor, Honda HP2, or even Opti-2 at lean mix ratios. Exhaust port cleanliness is only average and compares to the JASO FB rated Stihl HP Ultra. In my experiences, the only oils that have ever caused ring sticking in my OPE have been castor bean based products such as Blendzall green label racing castor and Klotz BeNol.

I will not purchase 8104 in the future because there are so many other superior lubricants readily available and at a much reduced cost. My local LE distributor/representative is also not a good person to do business with and therefore gives me no desire to consider their product.
I have been noticing black crumbly deposits on the plug of my lawn boy using Schaeffer's 7000 tcw3 i didn't have that before using supertech universal 2 cycle oil from walmart. The Schaeffer's oil has a bad odor as well.
 
Wawa E0 89 octane and Echo Red Armor oil, 1:50. I’m halfway through my first gallon and I swear my brush cutter is revving higher with this mixture.
 
I’m impressed to see so many people using 50:1 mix ratios. I started using 50:1 over ten years ago and although the oil I use is near smoke-less the environment had nothing to do with it, I never liked a smoky engine to begin with or having to wash clothes to get rid of the smell. I’m sure everyone using 50:1 found out the same things I did: It works great, the oil quality today is way ahead of what it once was, it not only burns cleaner but leaves less deposits and the lack of lubrication at 50:1 has become non issue.
 
Back
Top Bottom