Possible wrong atf (T-IV instead of WS)

Also, since the old fluid was so bad, should I even do anymore drain/fills? I've heard it's a bad idea to change the fluid at all after a certain point. Should I just leave well enough alone? Seems to work just fine now after about an hour or so of driving.
 
Also, since the old fluid was so bad, should I even do anymore drain/fills? I've heard it's a bad idea to change the fluid at all after a certain point. Should I just leave well enough alone? Seems to work just fine now after about an hour or so of driving.
No it's not.
 
Toyota transmissions are sensitive to fluid level if it doesn’t have a dipstick. You need to do a operating temp fluid level check.

You need to start cold, use an OBD-II scanner(dongle/app) or jumper the two Tc-E1 terminals in DLC3 to keep tabs on the ATF temp - you need to check the fluid when the ATF temp enters the “hot” range for a fluid level check - it will warm up quickly so be ready to add fluid. Get the car level on jack stands or on a lift. Start the engine and left idle. You’re going to monitor the fluid temp by the scan tool with a Toyota-specific PID or watch the D light in the dash cluster turn on when the trans is in the “check” temp.
 
Mine fortunately has a dipstick. Did my second drain and fill this morning. (drove about 5 hours yesterday) Now, I can tell a difference. The shifts are instant and I can't feel it unless I'm really paying attention. The fluid I drained today was still gray, but not as opaque. I also reset the ECM to re-learn idle and shift points. (easy enough, maybe not necessary) My car vibrates and "fishes" for a steady idle when stopped in drive. (It's done that ever since I got the car) Any ideas on that? Also, should I do a third drain and fill or is there no rush? Thanks again for all the help!
 
I also reset the ECM to re-learn idle and shift points. (easy enough, maybe not necessary) My car vibrates and "fishes" for a steady idle when stopped in drive. (It's done that ever since I got the car) Any ideas on that? Also, should I do a third drain and fill or is there no rush? Thanks again for all the help!
The Corollas always have a rough time with relearning idle after the battery is disconnected. The only advice I can give you is to put the car in IG-on mode(deadhead, KOEO) and don’t touch the throttle for 30 seconds while the ECM sweeps the throttle plate open and finds the zero-point. Then start the car and let it run until the temperature is in the “normal” range, strong heat and the fans cycle once.
 
The Corollas always have a rough time with relearning idle after the battery is disconnected. The only advice I can give you is to put the car in IG-on mode(deadhead, KOEO) and don’t touch the throttle for 30 seconds while the ECM sweeps the throttle plate open and finds the zero-point. Then start the car and let it run until the temperature is in the “normal” range, strong heat and the fans cycle once.
I don't know what ig on mode or deadhead koeo are.
 
I don't know what ig on mode or deadhead koeo are.
Those terms mean turn the key to the ignition position but don’t start the engine - it’s the 2nd click before turning the key to start the engine.

if you have push-to-start, it’s pressing the engine start/stop or power switch twice without pressing the brake pedal.
 
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