Possible wrong atf (T-IV instead of WS)

Jonas

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Also, since the old fluid was so bad, should I even do anymore drain/fills? I've heard it's a bad idea to change the fluid at all after a certain point. Should I just leave well enough alone? Seems to work just fine now after about an hour or so of driving.
 
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Also, since the old fluid was so bad, should I even do anymore drain/fills? I've heard it's a bad idea to change the fluid at all after a certain point. Should I just leave well enough alone? Seems to work just fine now after about an hour or so of driving.
No it's not.
 
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Toyota transmissions are sensitive to fluid level if it doesn’t have a dipstick. You need to do a operating temp fluid level check.

You need to start cold, use an OBD-II scanner(dongle/app) or jumper the two Tc-E1 terminals in DLC3 to keep tabs on the ATF temp - you need to check the fluid when the ATF temp enters the “hot” range for a fluid level check - it will warm up quickly so be ready to add fluid. Get the car level on jack stands or on a lift. Start the engine and left idle. You’re going to monitor the fluid temp by the scan tool with a Toyota-specific PID or watch the D light in the dash cluster turn on when the trans is in the “check” temp.
 

Jonas

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Mine fortunately has a dipstick. Did my second drain and fill this morning. (drove about 5 hours yesterday) Now, I can tell a difference. The shifts are instant and I can't feel it unless I'm really paying attention. The fluid I drained today was still gray, but not as opaque. I also reset the ECM to re-learn idle and shift points. (easy enough, maybe not necessary) My car vibrates and "fishes" for a steady idle when stopped in drive. (It's done that ever since I got the car) Any ideas on that? Also, should I do a third drain and fill or is there no rush? Thanks again for all the help!
 
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I also reset the ECM to re-learn idle and shift points. (easy enough, maybe not necessary) My car vibrates and "fishes" for a steady idle when stopped in drive. (It's done that ever since I got the car) Any ideas on that? Also, should I do a third drain and fill or is there no rush? Thanks again for all the help!
The Corollas always have a rough time with relearning idle after the battery is disconnected. The only advice I can give you is to put the car in IG-on mode(deadhead, KOEO) and don’t touch the throttle for 30 seconds while the ECM sweeps the throttle plate open and finds the zero-point. Then start the car and let it run until the temperature is in the “normal” range, strong heat and the fans cycle once.
 

Jonas

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The Corollas always have a rough time with relearning idle after the battery is disconnected. The only advice I can give you is to put the car in IG-on mode(deadhead, KOEO) and don’t touch the throttle for 30 seconds while the ECM sweeps the throttle plate open and finds the zero-point. Then start the car and let it run until the temperature is in the “normal” range, strong heat and the fans cycle once.
I don't know what ig on mode or deadhead koeo are.
 
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I don't know what ig on mode or deadhead koeo are.
Those terms mean turn the key to the ignition position but don’t start the engine - it’s the 2nd click before turning the key to start the engine.

if you have push-to-start, it’s pressing the engine start/stop or power switch twice without pressing the brake pedal.
 
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