Hello all. I recently bought a 2007 Toyota 4runner (V6) with 130k miles on it. A couple weeks after purchase my wife noticed some vibration occuring between 30-40 mph. It stops immediately when I let off the pedal. It also doesn't occur if I put the car into "4" and not drive. No problems shifting at all. All new tires so I know it's not a balance issue. Seems to me all signs point towards torque converter, although I'm not sure what that means as I don't know how the torque converter even works. I've asked everyone I know what to do and everyone has a different answer. Mechanic says flush transmission, other mechanic says be wary of flush. A friend of mine (another mechanic) says don't worry about it since it's running fine. Transmission place says stop driving immediately and bring it in, although I'm not gonna spend thousands on a simple vibration. I've seen this Dr. Tranny additive that gets great reviews, but most forums say don't use it. So I came here to confuse the issue even further. Oh, and the transmission fluid is dark red but no milky/sludgy/burnt smell to it. Any thoughts?
Possible Torque Shudder Problem
- Thread starter Primevil60
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This vehicle is a perfect candidate for Lubegard red. Excellent for most TC shudder issues and actually recommended in a Ford TSB for same.
Preference is towards transmission fluid that is transparent enough to see through it.
What type of service or maintenance did the transmission have?
Flushing or changing all the fluid should be done first as a bad torque converter isn't something that normally goes out at 130K (unless vehicle was abused offroad or spent a lot of time in low-range).
What type of service or maintenance did the transmission have?
Flushing or changing all the fluid should be done first as a bad torque converter isn't something that normally goes out at 130K (unless vehicle was abused offroad or spent a lot of time in low-range).
I doubt the fluid was ever changed honestly, but do not know for sure.
Do a filter change and refill, see what happens. But...........
My daughter had same exact problem on her 95 V6/auto Camero, the problem? Bad spark plug wire. When engine was loaded in high gear at low speeds it had high vacuum/high cylinder pressure which was not allowing spark plug to fire. If you let off just alittle or gave it some gas, the shaking went away. New wires, same plugs, ran like a top.
My daughter had same exact problem on her 95 V6/auto Camero, the problem? Bad spark plug wire. When engine was loaded in high gear at low speeds it had high vacuum/high cylinder pressure which was not allowing spark plug to fire. If you let off just alittle or gave it some gas, the shaking went away. New wires, same plugs, ran like a top.
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Other than a fluid/filter change, what other "maintenance" is available for transmissions?
That is comforting oldhp. New spark plugs was also recommended by a friend, and that was going to be my first try since it is the cheapest option.
Don't forget the wires.
There are no wires on this model, each plug has it's own coil.
Oh ok. Check the boots for heat cracks which could short out also.
Good Luck!!!
Good Luck!!!
Then have the codes pulled before you swap any parts. Maybe there are some soft codes stored for misfires and it will point you in the right direction as to what coil(s) to replace first instead of the shotgun approach.
If you don't find any ignition problems and you think transmission again, I second the pan and filter drop for some new fluid and Lubegard Red. LR Red took care of my 2-3 upshift shudder in my Audi.
If you don't find any ignition problems and you think transmission again, I second the pan and filter drop for some new fluid and Lubegard Red. LR Red took care of my 2-3 upshift shudder in my Audi.
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I used a code reader and it didn't show anything...what is a soft code?
I say look at transmission fluid. If it does not look to bad add 1 bottle of the red Lubegard. I recently did this for my Montero that has about 160,000 miles on it. Get the shudder aound 40-50 mph when the torque converter locks. The shudder is much better but on occasion I do feel a very light shudder. At least 90% better but will likely have a flush done soon. Plan on using Dexron and adding the Black Lubegard to convert the Dexron to the correct highly friction modified fluid.
What is the difference between red and black?
Black converts a dexron fluid to a Mitsubishi or Chrysler type fluid basically with abrasive material in the fluid and should only be used on a new fluid conversion.
Use the red under most conditions
Use the red under most conditions
I would service the trans and add Lubegard. It might just solve your shudder problem.
Originally Posted By: Primevil60
I used a code reader and it didn't show anything...what is a soft code?
A soft code is a pending code. It won't trigger the check engine light, but there is engough of a problem that the computer is getting ready to warn you. It usually happens when a misfire starts to develop, but it doesn't happen often enough in the specific time frame for the compter to light the engine light. I've also seen it when the fuel trims are getting out of spec but they haven't gone to the point of being out far enough to trigger the CEL. Typically you need a better code reader than the one Autozone or the like uses to see the soft codes.
I used a code reader and it didn't show anything...what is a soft code?
A soft code is a pending code. It won't trigger the check engine light, but there is engough of a problem that the computer is getting ready to warn you. It usually happens when a misfire starts to develop, but it doesn't happen often enough in the specific time frame for the compter to light the engine light. I've also seen it when the fuel trims are getting out of spec but they haven't gone to the point of being out far enough to trigger the CEL. Typically you need a better code reader than the one Autozone or the like uses to see the soft codes.
UPDATE: Well I have changed the spark plugs and it made quite a difference. The intensity and frequency of the vibration has decreased dramatically. I would say about 75%. I still notice it, but I can live with it. Does this mean the transmission is safe for now? What else can I do to get rid of it?
It could be a coil problem, but just not bad enough to completely fail yet and only on the one cylinder.
Is it worth throwing parts at a problem, no not really.
Since you replaced plugs try resetting the computer by removing battery terminals and stepping on the brake pedal a minute.
Is it worth throwing parts at a problem, no not really.
Since you replaced plugs try resetting the computer by removing battery terminals and stepping on the brake pedal a minute.
I reset the computer. That actually made it worse! I only drove it for about 5 miles though so maybe it needs a few more miles to settle it down?
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