Popular Mechanics - How to Break In a New Car

[Bluestream]

Those of you who have been around long enough will remember Bbobynki. He was an engineer who actually worked for GM. Read his posts in this tread for some real info on break in

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/129903/1

 

[jrustles]

Originally Posted By: bbobynski

240..??..260...???...that is NOT hot oil. I would say that the best thing that you can do to your oil is to get it to 250-260 each time the engine is run to make sure all the moisture and contaminants are thoroughly boiled out. HOT oil is when it is regularily getting to 290-300. We have demonstrated time and time again conventional oil's capability to occasionally spike to 305 with no problems. It will shorten up the oil life monitor a bit due to the more rapid oxidation rate incorporated in the model but the oil will be fine. If you think that you need a synthetic for getting to 260 F then you have been mislead. Period.


Originally Posted By: bbobynski

To really break in the rings against the side of the piston ring lands it is helpful to apply full load for brief intervals and then allow heavy engine braking to load the rings the other way and cause them to move around on the piston so as to burnish the sides of the ring lands.

I often recommend a procedure that can be done on the expressway by putting the trans in a manually selected lower gear so that the car is about 4500 RPM at 45-55 MPH. Full throttle up too 5500-6000 and then lift and allow engine braking back to 4500. Do this 10 times and then drive normally to cool things off. Repeat. Do this several times on several consequtive days. This is excellent for braking in the rings or exercising the rings on an older engine that might have carbon deposits restricting ring motion causing poor oil economy.

 

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted By: loneryder
I have changed the oil in new cars at 500 miles and another at 1000 miles. I put the drained oil in the sun and you can see all kinds of metal, brass, bronze, steel etc. I don't think you have to change that early but I would not want all that metal circulating for 10k miles.


No you can't, just no....

 

[buster]

Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Those of you who have been around long enough will remember Bbobynki. He was an engineer who actually worked for GM. Read his posts in this tread for some real info on break in

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/129903/1


Thanks for finding that! I've been looking for it.

 

[Lyman]

Here is another great read on breaking in an engine. I have used this method on a few Harleys and it works.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[jimbrewer]

Interesting BLKstanger, but it diametrically the only two pieces of advice Ford has in their manual, which are variable speeds and avoid full throttle acceleration, so I'll pass.

Still Steve SRT* reports that his manual advocates full throttle acceleration. How could there be so much variation in modern engines?

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: loneryder
I have changed the oil in new cars at 500 miles and another at 1000 miles. I put the drained oil in the sun and you can see all kinds of metal, brass, bronze, steel etc. I don't think you have to change that early but I would not want all that metal circulating for 10k miles.



So those metal chunks you could actually see will get pumped all through your engine will they?
Not unless your driving without a filter. Those chunks can stay in the oil pan forever and it won't matter,since oil goes from the pan then through the filter,so its impossible for them to get pumped through the engine.