Polymers and Carnauba wax differences

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Chemically it ( a polymer) is a molecule formed by the chemical union of five or more identical combining units called monomers. The Polymer and waxes used for detailing are semi-solid; they are actually a very concentrated solution in an organic solvent or aqueous emulsion.

Basic components; although somewhat more complex than other products, waxes and sealants also involve just basic chemistry, when a formulator designs a wax or sealant, they consider several factors; ease of application and removal, cleaning ability (if required), depth of gloss or shine, durability and resistance to detergents / soap.

Unfortunately, no one wax or sealant product can meet all of the above characteristics. If one is emphasized and enhanced, it will be to the detriment of another. For example, increased durability means that application and removal can be more difficult. Or, if cleaning capability is emphasized, the depth of shine will be less.
The best wax or sealant to use is one that provides as many of the characteristics as possible to achieve a shiny, durable finish.

Note- many waxes and polymer sealants actually look better after an initial post-application wash

The basic components used in waxes and sealants are;
1. Solvents or mineral oils- used for chemical cleaning, and as a carrier system, it also makes products workable and to provide spread ability, as is the case with Carnauba wax, which in its natural state is rock hard.
2. Emulsifiers - to stabilize the product (oil and water) and make it easier to use
3. Very-light abrasives – Kaolin to provide mild cleaning and to aid the wax in drying consistently for easy wipe-off
4. Surfactant- defined as a material that can greatly reduce the surface tension of liquids
5. Colouring- purely aesthetic
6. Fragrance- appealing fragrances help to sell the product

It is the combination of these ingredients that gives a wax its gloss, depth, and its durability (whether paste, cream or liquid) A properly formulated wax will provide shine to a painted surface and some temporary protection. The protection is obtained by creating a buffer between the paint and the environment.
(For application differences see ‘Polish Directional Application’)

1.Polymer sealant- comprises an open linked molecule, which forms a bond with the paint; these open linked polymer molecules join together to create an elongated mesh like effect that reflects light efficiently due to their inherent flat surface. Because they are usually very transparent they transmit the surface colour faithfully, but they have very little depth resulting in what is perceived as a very bright, but flat silver glow (liquidity or wet-look) Zaino, Klasse, Rejex, etc) Some paint sealants contain wax; the longevity of a paint sealant is due to the type of silicone (usually amino-functional silicone) that is used in its formulation. Polymers sealants require a paint to catatonically bond to; they will not bond directly to metal to provide protection

2.Acrylic sealant- an acrylic is a particular type of polymer (see Polymer sealant above) Zaino and Dura Gloss are two examples of non-acrylic polymers, which produce a ‘clear bright shine’. Klasse or Werkstatt (acrylic polymers) tend to produce a ‘liquid glow’.

3.Amino-Functional Silicone Fluids - this is a silicone fluid that has been slightly modified (the polymer content differs) the ‘amino’ portion is what causes the silicone to crosslink and physically attach to the paint surface. This cross linking capability is what makes a paint sealant more durable than a typical wax. It is the inclusion of amino-functional silicone fluids that give us a paint sealant

4.Carnauba wax- molecules are closed linked, which means that they only butt up together to protect the surface and the wax adheres to the paint surface. These wax molecules form an egg-grate type (with the long axis vertical) mesh over the smaller paint molecules of the paint film surface, which gives it an optical depth. Waxes in themselves even with the addition of silicone fluids are not as durable as the amino-functional silicones found in polymers in the formulation, do not crosslink but will resist many environmental contaminants only for a short period of time. Brazilian Carnauba wax is usually blended with natural oils (to provide gloss) and modern polymers (to provide shine)

5.Colour, Depth and Clarity- the three factors concourse judges look for when scrutinizing paint film surfaces. Of the three, optical clarity is of primary importance, being able to see the paint film’s true colour by having a really clean surface, clarity will enable depth of shine etc to be seen. Carnauba wax dries to a deep, natural shine; in contrast, bees wax, paraffin and some synthetic waxes tend to occlude (cloud or yellow).

6.Adherence - initially Carnauba wax attaches itself by surface tension; during the curing process the carrier system (solvents / oils) attach themselves to the porous microscopic caps in the paint surface forming a physical anchor. Carnauba wax dries to a deep, natural shine (in contrast, bees wax, paraffin and many synthetic waxes tend to occlude (cloud)

7.Bonding - a molecular bond is formed when polymers cross-link to other molecules, resulting in a solid, durable protective layer. Carnauba wax will bond to a cross-linked polymer; conversely if a polymer is applied on top of Carnauba wax the cross-linking / bonding may be compromised.

8.Although I would not state categorically that a product that is formulated with oils will abort the cross-linking or bonding process of a polymer; just that the process may not be as complete, and its strength and durability may be compromised. (See also Cross-linking and Adherence)

9.Fracture/evaporation temperatures - Polymers 350oF (176oC), Acrylic Resin 265 - 285oF (130 - 140°C), Silicone oil 350oF (176oC), Mineral oils 200oF (93oC), Synthetic blends (Carnauba wax / Polymers) 200oF (93oC), Carnauba wax 180oF (82oC), and Bee’s wax 130oF (54oC)

In actual practice the high temperatures frequently encountered by vehicles from the radiation causes wax compounds to melt, for example, a painted surfaces exposed to ambient temperatures of 85oF in direct sunlight, will obtain a temperature of 195 degrees or more. It should be noted that there is a range of temperatures at which melting begins and that the 'melting point' is the end point of that range (See also Wax, Polymers)
 
On my car since new..5 years old now...I have used Mothers pre-wax cleaner followed by Mothers Polish & then Mothers Pure Brazillian Carnuba wax..car isn't kept out in the elements & I use a good car cover when it's in the garage..car looks almost as good as new.
I find four times a year seems to work well in this climate along with Rust Check...Prince Edward Island on the Canadian east coast.
No kind of wax or otherwise is going to keep that rig protected or looking great 5 or ten years down the road if it's not protected more than once a year & kept out of the sun etc as much as possible.
 
Quote:


No such thing as "Pure Carnuba"
In its "pure" form Carnuba is stronger then any brick in size or weight.

SS/LS




That explains why the can is so heavy!!
shocked.gif


Ok, then Pure Carnuba Wax then, better?
grin.gif
 
Yes, no such thing as pure Carnuba. Even the most expensive Zymol Carnuba wax (7K for 22oz) contains something like 70 percent White Brazilian Carnuba.
 
I've been using the Mothers 3 step for 5 years since buying the car new. Pre-wax Cleaner, Polish then one & sometimes 2 light coats of Mothers Carnuba.
I've tried a lot of different waxes over the past 30+ years & haven't found the perfect soloution yet for my area..especially winters that begin in Nov/Dec & last until as late as early to mid April. Not exactly able to wash & wax around here during that time..the water would freeze on the car...and I never use any kind of car wash, they have the kind that use high pressure hoses but it would be like sand blasting the paint..no thanks...the car is Rust Checked every year since new & gets an extensive cleaning underneath in April..the underside looks like new.

But I do find with the Mothers products even after 6 months of winter the wax is still on the paint judging from the beading. There are a few spots that I can tell the protection has pretty much worn off..lower door areas where the snow, slush etc splashes up from the tires..but I can't imagine there's any product out there that will stay on that area over a 6 month Canadian winter.

One problem I'm having with this topic on here is that some people claim what works best or is great for them which may be true for where they live..like southern California or areas along the Gulf Coast..sure..you don't see salt all over your rigs so thick you can't see through the windshield at times, slush, up to three feet of snow, wet sand, freezing rain, 60mph north winds with temps that can dip to -50 with wind chills.

My point is that what products work in the deep south or even a little further north in the U.S. work for those areas but there are millions of people in Canada & the most northern States that don't have it that easy.
I'd like to see some people who live in States like Maine, Vermont, Michigan etc post their experiences.

Considering the huge differneces between the south & far north, I think there should be a seperate thread for those who live in warm to cool climates from Nov to Apr. & another for us who have to deal with the really harsh climate.
 
Quote:


Yes, no such thing as pure Carnuba. Even the most expensive Zymol Carnuba wax (7K for 22oz) contains something like 70 percent White Brazilian Carnuba.




i think mother's just means that it's not a cleaner wax, it's just simply...carnauba wax with an unknown amount of "pure" carnuaba wax.
getdown.gif
 
Quote:


I've been using the Mothers 3 step for 5 years since buying the car new. Pre-wax Cleaner, Polish then one & sometimes 2 light coats of Mothers Carnuba.
I've tried a lot of different waxes over the past 30+ years & haven't found the perfect soloution yet for my area..especially winters that begin in Nov/Dec & last until as late as early to mid April. Not exactly able to wash & wax around here during that time..the water would freeze on the car...and I never use any kind of car wash, they have the kind that use high pressure hoses but it would be like sand blasting the paint..no thanks...the car is Rust Checked every year since new & gets an extensive cleaning underneath in April..the underside looks like new.

But I do find with the Mothers products even after 6 months of winter the wax is still on the paint judging from the beading. There are a few spots that I can tell the protection has pretty much worn off..lower door areas where the snow, slush etc splashes up from the tires..but I can't imagine there's any product out there that will stay on that area over a 6 month Canadian winter.

One problem I'm having with this topic on here is that some people claim what works best or is great for them which may be true for where they live..like southern California or areas along the Gulf Coast..sure..you don't see salt all over your rigs so thick you can't see through the windshield at times, slush, up to three feet of snow, wet sand, freezing rain, 60mph north winds with temps that can dip to -50 with wind chills.

My point is that what products work in the deep south or even a little further north in the U.S. work for those areas but there are millions of people in Canada & the most northern States that don't have it that easy.
I'd like to see some people who live in States like Maine, Vermont, Michigan etc post their experiences.

Considering the huge differneces between the south & far north, I think there should be a seperate thread for those who live in warm to cool climates from Nov to Apr. & another for us who have to deal with the really harsh climate.




for bad weather, try collinite insulator wax #845. We use it for boats, if it can withstand salt water and being submerged all the time. It shouldnt have an issue.
 
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