Polishing Oxidized Black Paint

Joined
Aug 30, 2004
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Location
CA
FIL left his car on my driveway. I decided to polish half of his hood during lunch to see if I could improve the oxidation.
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Pretty surprised by the improvement.

1st step was TLC+ with a Rupes blue DA wool pad

2nd step was Rupes DA yellow Polish with a Rupes yellow foam pad.

Finished off with a Meguiars M799 wipe down. All performed in direct sun.

I think I might leave it this way. ;)

But in all seriousness, what is the likelihood that the oxidation will reappear in a short amount of time? I did not see any “paint checking” or other obvious signs of clear coat failure after I polished. The hood is very pitted though.
 
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You missed a spot
oxidation.jpg
haha

Also if you want the paint not to oxidize use a sealer like nufinish, easy to apply and cleans the paint while your at it. use the can, the stuff in the bottles cant mix right.
 
Nice job. Keep it protected and you won't have to do it again. My base is Meguiars Ultimate, my maintenance is Beadmaker. My red truck lives outside, and is still very much red.
 
Much improved. The driver's side sure looks like the clear is failing to me but pictures can be deceiving. Leave it like that and it will drive him nuts ;) .
 
Yes, if the clear is failing like RTexasF mentioned, it will be a pita to keep it looking that nice. My Jeep TJ was the same way, I could polish it shiny, but would only last a couple months at best before oxidizing again no matter what I put on it (well I tried sealants, wax etc, short of new clear coat.)
 
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I decided to just polish the rest of the car. Used a Rupes DA medium wool polishing pad and their new DA fine polish. This combo greatly improved the finish but left a tiny bit of micro-marring/DA haze despite lower speeds and blowing out the pad after each working section. I waxed the car using M27 for now. At a later date, I will do a final polish when it is time to re-wax. Judging by the condition of the roof and trunk lid, I have a feeling that clear coat failure is imminent.
 
Learning point, please -

I’ve only used Lake Country foam pads for detailing.

I’m not schooled on the use of wool pads.

Advantages over foam?
 
Judging by the pictures you just gained some serious points from your father in law. In spite of what others have posted I've never found a way to completely halt the degradation of oxidized black paint. You already know what to expect if the clear is going bye bye. That Camry really looks good.
 
dkryan ~

Here's a quick explanation:

WOOL PAD - highly aggressive pads used for cutting or heavy compounding and removes extreme swirls or oxidation on very hard paint. It removes heavy oxidation much better than foam pads and generates less heat resulting in cooler surface
 
“…….Velvet and Denim….”

It sounds like the making of a new reality show as opposed to something I’d use on my automotive paint.
 
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