So you’re claiming that my ProLogix bringing back an Interstate that read 11.1V and wouldn’t even turn on interior lights 3 years ago, spent 24 hours on the 2310 and started just fine the next day. That battery is still alive and working fine is a figment of my imagination?
Not saying ProLogix will save OP’s battery or every battery, but there’s plenty of evidence contrary to your opinion.
I can take the worlds cheapest 12v flooded lead acid battery, draw it down to 11.1v over 10 hours, put it on any just about any C10 charger for 14 hours, about 100 times back to back, before it might be worn enough to be in danger of not starting a modern fuel injected engine.
A marine battery woukd likely do it 200 to 250 times.
You did it once 3 years ago, and use it as proof of the magical properties of bitog's most recommended charger's ability to defy physics.
Now if you said the baTtery was 3 years old, then allowed to drain to 11.1v over 6 months, and charger x did nothing when applied for 14 hours, and charger Y also did nothing, but charger B did, and the battery is still 'going strong' 3 years later, then id probably say charger X and Y are simply junk, and remain unimpressed.
Im not saying it is a bad charger, im saying beware of Marketing and half pictures. Any charging source capable of bringing an undercharged battery to, and holding it in the mid 14's is doing something good for the battery.
Those chargers with 'recondition' features, which will extend the time held at ~14.4v, then rIse voltage towards the mid 15's, stand a better chance of dissolving hardened sulfaTion, and restoring some nknown portion of lost capacity and performance, but this intended forced overcharge is also stressful on a battery when it is performed when not required.
If the OP were so inclined, intending to use the trolling motor often and hard and wanting maximum battery longevity, then a good temperature compensating hydrometer would be a wise , but frustrating investment.
Frustrating, as it would become obvious that achieving 1.270 or higher after each deep cycle, the true measure of true full charge, would require loading the battery, dropping lits surface charge voltage below 12.6, and then restarting the charger over and over is required to achieve 1.270+.
Been there, done that, and now use adjustable voltage power supplies to hold absorption voltage for as long as the tools amd long experience tell me to.
And 80% charged to 100% charged is never less than 3.5 hours, amd that is with a newish healthy battery held in the mid 14s that entire time.
Older batteries and lower charge voltages will extend that time from 80% to a true 100% considerably.
A 30% charged healthy baTtery will have no issues staRting a fuel injected engine.
I know most assume if the battery starts the engine, it is 100% charged and 'still going strong'.
Both can be measured tested, and verified, but few have ever bothered.
Im bowing out of all lead acid battery /charger threads, because it is akin to peeing into the wind and then finding someone hiding behind a tree upwind, wants to throw their feces at me too.
