Plastic tire chains, anyone use 'em?

[Oillover]

Thinking of getting a set to keep on hand when the roads get a little too icy/snowy.
Anyone have a preference? The ones I'm considering are similar to zip ties, (easier to fit on a range of wheel and tire sizes).
https://www.amazon.ca/Anti-Skid-Uni...1645312602&sprefix=snow+chains,aps,118&sr=8-9

 

[samven]

I would not count on these to get you anywhere, they may be good enough to get you out of a slippery parking spot as long as its only snow. They wont work on ice of any type and if you drive on them they will snap when you hit dry pavement. If you look at the heavy duty ones that cost 5x as much the only good reviews are from people that have not used them only think they look like good quality, everyone that did gave them 1 star. I had a set of cable chains that worked ok to get you unstuck but you could not drive on them either and they were much stronger than nylon cable ties.

 

[methusaleh]

I wouldn’t even consider them.

We had a great related discussion here recently.

 

[Oillover]

 

[methusaleh]

Thank you for sharing that.

I’ve used the simple Pewag style before and they do work well. However when I say I use chains nowadays, I’m talking substantial material, like 1/4” thick links. Look at what a city snow plow would use. Much heavier duty than the Pewag style, and thus better traction, grip achieved faster, shorter stops, better steering, etc.

I’ve also used “stud” type chains, whose only real advantage that I’ve noted is that they work very well for shredding up an icy driveway to give grip to your tires after the chains come off. Swerve up and down your driveway with the studded chains on, and you’ll turn the surface from a skating rink into slush.

 

[UG_Passat]

Thank you for sharing that.

I’ve used the simple Pewag style before and they do work well. However when I say I use chains nowadays, I’m talking substantial material, like 1/4” thick links. Look at what a city snow plow would use. Much heavier duty than the Pewag style, and thus better traction, grip achieved faster, shorter stops, better steering, etc.

I’ve also used “stud” type chains, whose only real advantage that I’ve noted is that they work very well for shredding up an icy driveway to give grip to your tires after the chains come off. Swerve up and down your driveway with the studded chains on, and you’ll turn the surface from a skating rink into slush.

You can still get the "thicker" link chains, but they come at the price of ease of installation. And your car may not have the proper clearance for them. Pickup trucks, you likely have clearance for non S-class chains.

On pewag makes heavier duty chains also to satisfy that market.

 

[y_p_w]

You can still get the "thicker" link chains, but they come at the price of ease of installation. And your car may not have the proper clearance for them. Pickup trucks, you likely have clearance for non S-class chains.

On pewag makes heavier duty chains also to satisfy that market.

It's going to take a huge wheel well to accommodate anything that big.

Cables aren't too bad these days. It's not necessarily about the size but the construction. Security Chain (now part of Peerless) uses coils that are supposed be better than the old style crimped rollers. Plus the diagonal type to maintain constant traction compared to ladders. Once I bought a seat of diagonal cables with crimped rollers. Not sure how well that would have ended up working as I returned them.

I don't quite get why ladder chains/cables are still used, but they seem to work. I guess they might slip a little, but I've found the key to snow or ice is to get going first, and once there's enough momentum the tires stop slipping. If there's not enough traction to get going in the first place, then one is just kind of stuck there.= just spinning the tires.

 

[UG_Passat]

It's going to take a huge wheel well to accommodate anything that big.

Cables aren't too bad these days. It's not necessarily about the size but the construction. Security Chain (now part of Peerless) uses coils that are supposed be better than the old style crimped rollers. Plus the diagonal type to maintain constant traction compared to ladders. Once I bought a seat of diagonal cables with crimped rollers. Not sure how well that would have ended up working as I returned them.

I don't quite get why ladder chains/cables are still used, but they seem to work. I guess they might slip a little, but I've found the key to snow or ice is to get going first, and once there's enough momentum the tires stop slipping. If there's not enough traction to get going in the first place, then one is just kind of stuck there.= just spinning the tires.

Like I said, it's going to take a pickup truck to fit something larger non S-class chain, not typically something on a car chassis.

SCC used to warn consumers about the roller cables falling due to the rollers getting crushed and pinching the cable that runs through it. The rolled coils the SCC/Peerless uses also creates a lot more biting edges for the cable chain to dig into the snow/ice.

the Ladder style chains are probably easier to manufacturer, so the pricepoint remains low, and usually does not need additional rubber tensioners, but they can be a PITA to install and tension properly.

Even The Konig K-summit, of you remove all of the diameter reducing bolts, looks like a ladder style chain, but... with the 2 radial members still on the tire.

 

[y_p_w]

Like I said, it's going to take a pickup truck to fit something larger non S-class chain, not typically something on a car chassis.

SCC used to warn consumers about the roller cables falling due to the rollers getting crushed and pinching the cable that runs through it. The rolled coils the SCC/Peerless uses also creates a lot more biting edges for the cable chain to dig into the snow/ice.

the Ladder style chains are probably easier to manufacturer, so the pricepoint remains low, and usually does not need additional rubber tensioners, but they can be a PITA to install and tension properly.

Even The Konig K-summit, of you remove all of the diameter reducing bolts, looks like a ladder style chain, but... with the 2 radial members still on the tire.

The first traction devices I bought were Cobra ladder cables with crimped rollers. It was tough finding them in March around here. The instructions were insane though. I know a lot of people use tricks to install ladders like placing them down first, then driving over them. However, the instructions were to place them over the top and connect at the bottom. Yeah right. I tried in my garage and that was near impossible. The instructions did say that tensioners could be used (and Quality Chain sold them) but the standard instructions were to get it on first, then drive a few feet and retighten. I actually bought some bungee cords which I've heard used to do this. They might need to be shortened, and the usual way would be to tie knots.

The diagonal style cables with the keyhole connectors and tighteners are super easy. I saw someone put those on a RWD pickup and it seemed a lot easier than ladders. And I've practiced it a few times and feel confident that I could install them if there was some freak, sudden snowstorm in my area.