Pictures of my Bypass setup on tractor

[Hurst89]

Here are some pictures of the bypass set up on my Allis Chalmers 7000 tractor with a 301 turbo diesel. It has increased the sump capaicity by around 1-1.5 quarts. It is a 1 micron bleached cotton wound filter (10 inch cartridge with 304 SS core). The tubing feeding the filter is 1/8 inch (1/4 OD) copper tubing and the tubing to the return is 1/8 OD copper tubing (I think this is 1/16 inch tubing, has an ID of .06). I haven't noticed any changes in pressure. The filter is fed from the full flow filter housing and the T you see also has an out for taking oil samples. Let me know if you have any questions, I will try to answer them as best as I can.

Return line into a predrilled hole in block that was plugged. It is 1/2 copper tubing that is a tight slip fit.

The filter canister nicely tucked away. Notice how the small line is secured to keep it from vibrating and rubbing.

Here is the T that the oil feed comes from. The right side feeds the filter, the left side is for taking oil samples.

Routing of the hose into the filter.

Filter from inlet side again.

Filter from outlet side

Last one of cartridge.


Hurst

 

[Gary Allan]

Bravo, Hurst! Bravo. Very clean install.

 

[Hurst89]

Thank you for the compliment. Unfortunately I am about to leave for Philadelphia for college, so I won't get to see my creation at work for a few months. I think the filter looks a little too shiny against the dust and dirt under the hood lol.
I did send in the sample of JD 10-30 break in oil w/ 30 hours on it to CAT for analysis. I am kind of anxious to see what this oil has in it.

Hurst

 

[Hurst89]

Forgot to put the costs on here:

Filter: $25 plus $18 shipping (so far the only place I have found this filter, CT-101 Cuno, other than ebay wants $470, so I think I got a good deal)

Fittings and Tubing: McMaster: $41 shipped, Ace: $9, and the T, 1/2 copper tubing on the return, and 1/4 to 1/8 reducer on return was something we had at the farm shop.

The $41 from McMaster also included two 1 micron cartridge filters (cotton wound with 304 SS core).

I hope this thing will pay for itself in a less than 2 oil changes (100 hour original intervals with 4 gallon sump and 2 $15 full flow filters stretched to 2-300 hours on dino oil, maybe more on Rotella 5w40). Running Rotella T 15w40 CJ-4 in it right now because I want to make sure the rings are seated well before switching to 5w40. Still unsure if I will make the switch to synthetic though, I will have to wait on the UOA after 100 hours and every 50 after that.

Hurst

 

[sdan27]

What are the primary filters you're running there? I'll bet you could easily pull out a 400-500 hour change interval with your set-up.

 

[Hurst89]

The primary full flow filters for this engine are twin LF739 filters. The twin full flow set up was stock by Allis Chalmers on the 301.


Hurst

 

[sdan27]

You ought to look at LF3553's. Have the same threads and are a little shorter but have a synthetic filter media. Probably don't need much more filtration but will probably have a higher flow rate for those cold winter starts.

 

[Hurst89]

I'll check into those when I run out of my stock of 739's. I think I have 4 more left, so hopefully those will last me a few years if my OCI's are able to be extended a good bit. I appreciate the heads up on those. I stocked up on the 739s when I found them for under $3 a piece .

Hurst

 

[sdan27]

To amend my previous statement, an LF3552 would be a little better yet because it still has the synthetic media but is a little taller to hold more oil, more contaminants. We have a Case back-hoe with a four cylinder Cummins that gets great oil reports after 300 hours with the LF3552. Your set-up looks great too. I've installed a few bypass systems but never went as far as to use solid tubing, just hydraulic hose.

 

[Hurst89]

The reason I went with copper tubing was to keep it clean looking and also to help cool the oil before and after the bypass filter. Also, by using the copper tubing, I don't need a flow orifice, since I have .061 ID on the return line. It should work out pretty well. I'll be sure to update again when I get to use the tractor (not going to be for a while, as I am in Philadelphia right now at college.

 

[Dualie]

I would make VERY sure that you get ZERO vibration in the copper tubing. Copper is very susceptible to work hardening and will crack and rupture fairly quickly if the line gets any bad vibration in it.

180 Deg diesel soot infused engine oil spraying everywhere within 100' radius is never a fun thing.

And before anyone starts in YES i know hot rodders use to make fuel lines out of copper but if you look around you will notice that they stopped doing that for a reason.

 

[Hurst89]

I'll do that when I get back home. I didn't see any after clamping down the return side with homemade rubber isolators, and the intake side was solid because the tubing is so stiff and not as long of a run.

Hurst