Pics of new Frantz installation

[mjo]

Hi Everyone,

This is an installation of a Frantz bypass filter on a Saturn SL2 1995. Battery was moved into the trunk. All kits/ parts were bought using Ebay and local hardware stores
Here's pictures of three different vantage points:

A picture of the oil pressure meter while ball valve is closed:

"" after the ball valve is opened with new TP roll:

As you can see, I used a frame made of sheet metal. To keep the pipe fittings snug and without much vibration, I used rubber grommets. There is an Aluminum metal plate that everything sits on. This plate is supported and raised up 1" by two hollow metal bars that attach to the two longest sides. Liquid teflon was applied to all fittings. Everything is leak tight except for the fitting connecting the brake line & frantz's inlet. I found out that brake line is too rigid to use for connecting to the Frantz since the filter vibrates. The brake line causes that fitting to Start dripping and gets progressively worse. Very soon I will replace this with rubber hose. For now the ball valve is closed and no oil is flowing through the Frantz at this time.

 

[deepsquat]

Very interesting set up ..could you explain it please ..using the second picture ans calling the top of the picture as North ( Where the Frantz is) could you explain where each hose is going ?

 

[sifan]

Look like a very elaborated setup. Where are you going to find room to install the transmission oil bypass filter?

 

[mjo]

I designed this setup with a second Frantz filter in mind for the transmission. I thought there would be enough room to fit both in and have an oil pressure meter for each. Unfortunately found out that this wouldn't work, about another 1/4" was needed in order for the second Frantz to fit. This is because I didn't anticipate the brake unit to be in the way.
When I build the second design, the pipe "cage" will be along the front side of the plate and the fitting assembly will be longer. This should leave me more room to put the transmission filter and its fitting assembly. I will have to make this design easy to work on...


Now let me explain where everything is routed to using the second photo. The oil pressure comes from the hose that runs under the Frantz unit and attaches in place of the oil pressure sender (OPS). Therefore everything attached to the 1/8" NPT cross has oil pressure. The fat grey thing on the bottom left is the relocated OPS. I had to extend the electrical connector for the OPS with a single red wire. The brake line attached to the NPT ball valve is the pressure source for the Frantz filter. The fourth port of the NPT cross is connected to the mechanical oil pressure meter. I used copper line for this meter. What you cannot see is the outlet for the Frantz filter. This is connected to the bottom rear of the filter housing. The rubber hose for this goes to the NPT fitting in the oil pan.

 

[sifan]

How is oil returned to the engine from Frantz filter?

 

[mjo]

Filtered oil leaves the outlet of the Frantz filter, through the rubber hose and enters an npt 90 degree elbow fitting bolted into the oil pan. Fitting is located 3" above the bottom of oil pan.

 

[sifan]

mjo - Whe you change the TP, you just release the clamp and lift the canister? If so, how do you catch the oil dripping out of the canister?

 

[mjo]

> mjo - Whe you change the TP, you just release > the clamp and lift the canister? If so, how do > you catch the oil dripping out of the canister?

I don't, just wait until Frantz is cold and then there is zero mess. But then again, my Frantz drains into the oil pan.
BTW, please send us some pics of your future Frantz transmission filter concoction.

 

[1977c10phxdriver]

Returning the oil to the pan, is in my opinion, the best way to do it as far as not having a huge mess when servicing the TP element. I have my Frantz returned to the pan also, so within 3 or 4 minutes of shutting down, all the oil has drained back and the Frantz is empty and won't spill a drop when I pull the canister. Too bad the bottom center fitting is leaking AGAIN!!!! so I have to take it all apart AGAIN and fix that. LOL

Mark

 

[sifan]

mjo - Sorry, I do not have a digital camara to download the pictures. I have bolted the Frantz transmission filter in the engine bay. What is left is the plumbing. I am still trying to find a way to fix the universal adaptor on the metal body.

 

[sifan]

Since I return oil thru the oil cap, there is always some amount of oil remained in the canister. I have to remove the two holding screws and lift-and-flip the whole thing to change the TP. It is a real pain to remove those two screws especially in a tight space, but, I can live with it.

1977c10phxdriver - How bad is the leak? Is it normal for a fitting suddenly starts to leak? This possible point of failure in the bypass system always worries me. I always carry tools and extra oil in the trunk just in case I have to remove the whole bypass system on the side of road when leakage happens. But, oil and tools are heavy and hurt gas mileage. I guess it is the price to pay as a bypass filter owner.

 

[mjo]

Just replaced that metal brake line with rubber. Used small removable hose clamps (w/ screw adjuster) in place of the "Oetiker" clamps. Also tried RTV liquid Silicone on the fittings. I really like the Silicone because it gives you a vacuum-tight leak-proof seal and the fittings can still be disassembled. When liquid teflon gets dry it tends to crumble & fall off. I've also tried the thread sealant made by Wefilterit and it also doesn't work as well as Silicone. Currently there are no leaks on my setup!