I replaced a seized caliper on my Yaris and when installing the new caliper, pads, etc. I had double of all the disc brake hardware. I ended up using 8 of these little clips on top and bottom of all 4 pads. I noted the pads were pretty tight and hard to move within the caliper but everything fit. I notice a little clunk but not sure if everything is ok. Would this mess with anything? I just realized now that there were only 2 per caliper from the kit and not 4. Some were steel and some were stainless. Thanks!
Yaris brake shim question
- Thread starter northestPM
- Start date
USA doesn’t tell us where. Do you live in the rust belt where rust on the caliper brackets is “normal”? Did you clean under the (whatever they are called, they snap into the bracket and the pads ride on them, stainless steel) and make sure there was no rust under this stainless bit? I have done that on mine, and in my experience, I still have to file the pad ears a hair in order to have them give a loose fit.
And they still like to seize up after a winter anyhow… darn road salt.
Thing is, if you have a bit of a clunk, it could be just one pad loose. One of my cars has that, and I can see the pad is loose. I didn’t file that one (I think) so you may have an assortment of some loose pads and some tight pads.
As to those things you have circled. those are noise makers, for when the pads get thin. You can omit, but then you might lose a rotor if it goes metal on metal. I forget the orientation, google for the win here, but want to say you want the rotor to rotating into that clip for proper operation.
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I would take apart and redo. But I do that every year, and sometimes twice a year, so that is easy for me to say. TheCritic turned me onto Honda M77 moly for brake grease, I use a smidge on the pad ears where they slide, to grease them a bit; others prefer a different brake grease (or none at all). I don’t use grease on the shims (on the pads) either, as I did that one time and got wicked squeal (must have used the wrong stuff, I guess). I would want the pads just loose, no real play but loose and easy to move. Otherwise, any amount of rust is going to seize them, and then the pads will wear quickly.
And they still like to seize up after a winter anyhow… darn road salt.
Thing is, if you have a bit of a clunk, it could be just one pad loose. One of my cars has that, and I can see the pad is loose. I didn’t file that one (I think) so you may have an assortment of some loose pads and some tight pads.
As to those things you have circled. those are noise makers, for when the pads get thin. You can omit, but then you might lose a rotor if it goes metal on metal. I forget the orientation, google for the win here, but want to say you want the rotor to rotating into that clip for proper operation.
*
I would take apart and redo. But I do that every year, and sometimes twice a year, so that is easy for me to say. TheCritic turned me onto Honda M77 moly for brake grease, I use a smidge on the pad ears where they slide, to grease them a bit; others prefer a different brake grease (or none at all). I don’t use grease on the shims (on the pads) either, as I did that one time and got wicked squeal (must have used the wrong stuff, I guess). I would want the pads just loose, no real play but loose and easy to move. Otherwise, any amount of rust is going to seize them, and then the pads will wear quickly.
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