Permatex Ceramic Brake Parts Lubricant

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I've used Dow Corning 111 on caliper slide pins when I've had nothing else. It seems to work fine. It's a silicone based food grade water softener valve grease. High viscosity.

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Same here, learned through failure long ago that permatex green caliper lube swells up rubber bushing.
Switched to Syl-glide and have not had any issues since.
At the time, maybe 4 years ago, when it happened on Subaru, I was freaking out, because I thought the issue maybe related to
the Subaru specific brakes. Have not found any "well documented" explanation, but just switched to silicone based paste on
somebody's recommendation.
Its pretty bad that Permatex's product is still prominently displayed and recommended for the job in most of the auto stores.
It actually makes things worse.
 
From Permatex: As long as you did not rebuild the calipers yourself and replace the rubber O ring around the piston using our product to do so you should not incur any issue of any kind.

Has anyone tried this product from CRC?

 
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I have that CRC product and use it on the pad/support plate tabs. Didn't use it on the pins because the stuff is to viscous and sticky. It may work just fine on the pins but I have my doubts.
 
I'll add to the consensus here. My Caravans had similar pins as shown by Polly_3SFE and the Bendix brand purple ceramic brake grease and the Permatex Synthetic PAO green resulted in bound up pins.

Curtis Newton: You will probably have to be the guinea pig on that CRC Silaramic. The silicone base "should" be safe. It's odd (to me) that the MSDS shows that it contains 10-15% magnesium silicate (talc like filler). But, I'm no chemist.

When I want a high solids water proof paste for the exposed metal to metal contact points, I recommend the Dow M77 or Paste Lube (https://www.goodson.com/Pastelub-Synthetic-Hi-Temp-Brake-Lubricant/). I cannot say enough good stuff about the Paste Lube. I use it all around the farm and it is extremely tenacious exposed to weather. A paper thin coat on my wheel hubs keeps them rust free in our heavy salt bath winters.
 
This was an informative thread, thanks all. I wish I would have read about it before doing the brakes on our RX330; oh well, live and learn.

Despite reassurances from Permatex that they haven't seen any issues, I reached out to an acquaintance, who is a Toyota Master Certified Tech, and very helpful on various forums and he recommends Sil-Glyde. So in a few months, I am going to pull the caliper pins, clean them up and use that product.

I still have no clue how Permatex has such raving reviews on Amazon, but I am not going to take a chance.

 
What you need to know about the Sil Glyde is that it is NOT a real silicone grease as the name implies. Old MSDS's show that the main ingredients are polypropylene glycol and castor oil. The Critic confirms this, LOL. This type of info sometimes thwarts us BITOG OCD types, in spite of its outstanding reputation over MANY decades.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0ahUKEwjk9prepdLSAhWBfxoKHZuMCtoQFggqMAM&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bemidjistate.edu%2Foffices%2Fenvironmental_health_safety%2Ffiles%2Fmsds%2FSil-Glyde_Grease.pdf&usg=AFQjCNH1kUb9L2yDLqrcWFAB3R94QhIxgA&bvm=bv.149397726,d.d2s&cad=rja
 
I use Motorcraft Brake Grease and Dielectric compound. The newest version of it has a warning not to use on low voltage connections. It is very thick and seems like great stuff. Not really expensive, I get it from the distributor. Note: It is NOT sylguide. For example, the service manual in my Explorer SPECIFIES this product for the rubber and NOTHING else. Now, it is probably good for all makes but you should use what your manufacturer suggests.

The purple permatex stuff is good for METAL contact - for example the parking brake system actuators. I work the purple stuff into emergency brake cables. I've had the parking brake cable eyelet weld itself to the actuator - most products wash off.

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