People Who Whine About Engine Oil Prices

[Audi Junkie]

I had no problem breaking-in my last 2 new Honda engines on Chevron Supreme and Havoline Black. I'd do the same next time. Percieved quality and cost of that oil vs value of my car was not at consideration at all.

No matter what value of vehicle (w/o turbo) I'd probally just buy dino oil since it represents great quality and price. The only real reason I use synth is because I have a stock of it that I got at a non-premium price.

 

[FZ1]

Another view. If the synthetic oil returns 1/4 to 1/2 mpg more,then it's "cheaper" to run than "cheap" oil. Delicious looking dish btw.

 

[Cutehumor]

if it's more expensive, it must be better. there's a sucker born every minute

 

[FZ1]

If I get 1/4 to 1/2 mpg better with the synthetic,then it's less money than the "expensive to run" dino. That's the point. Cheaper is not always less expensive.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
If I get 1/4 to 1/2 mpg better with the synthetic,then it's less money than the "expensive to run" dino. That's the point. Cheaper is not always less expensive.


Since 95% of the syn users here maybe may make 5k on their OCI lets take 5k. (Really if you look at most of the posts here, the syn crowd do not go that far...)

Difference between 30 mpg and 30.5 mpg - 2.73 gallons

40 mpg - 40.5 mpg - 1.55 gallons

20 mpg - 20.5 mpg - 6.1 gallons

I've never seen any better MPG in a I4, H4, I6, V6, V8 using syn over conventional of the same weight.

So on my Subaru I would save 2.73 gallons @ $4 = $10.92

On my Toyota if it got as low as 40 mpg I would save $6.20

I think the big word on the above post is *if*.

Bill

 

[Gary Allan]

I'd say that the difference in mpg with distance driving would be in the 1-2% range. Easily trumped by a multitude of random factors. Now in the 5 mile range, this would probably be broadened a bit. I know Bill isn't aware of this since he's done only mega miles on every car he has ever owned. If he did it in 5 mile clips with cold starts ..he'd still be out there on his first car trying to get his first 250k notch in his belt ..and as we all know, Bill has a belt that looks like Swiss Cheese

 

[FZ1]

I'm not sellin' the stuff. Just passing along that I got about 1 mpg better when I went from dealer fill to syn. Most people don't average 30 or 40 mpg. If you want to go that way then I got 4-5% better with syn. 5% of 40 is 2mpg. My car is an 02 Honda v6. The increment between $10 and $20 for 5 quarts of dino vs. syn at WM is only $10 and might save the driver more than $10 in gas. Further,if the cost was the same,most would prefer the synthetic.

 

[Bill in Utah]

If my wife drove 5 miles each way every trip I'd be a happy guy.

Try 1/2 to 2 miles one way then two hours later do it all over...

Then we add HOW she drives..

I don't want to get more depressed.

I have to go back to work today...

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
I don't want to get more depressed.

I have to go back to work today...


Well, that's what you get from a decent recovery. No good deed goes unpunished.

I feel that the greatest reward for doing is the opportunity to do more-Dr. Jonas Salk

 

[Bob The Builder]

Hey everyone. I have to let you in on a little secret. I don't really think that oil is better just because it costs more. I do think that even though an engine is just an engine, we should run whatever we think is the best oil for it. It's all personal preference which is based on differing factors such as voa's, uoa's, length of time between oci's, how the engine feels and sounds and certainly not last I'm sure...which oil we like.

I admit I was stirring the pot a little bit, but to be honest, I love my 10 dollar a qt oil and my 5 to 10k oci's. See ya'll next post.

 

[twentynine]

Originally Posted By: Bob The Builder
Hey everyone. I have to let you in on a little secret. I don't really think that oil is better just because it costs more. I do think that even though an engine is just an engine, we should run whatever we think is the best oil for it. It's all personal preference which is based on differing factors such as voa's, uoa's, length of time between oci's, how the engine feels and sounds and certainly not last I'm sure...which oil we like.

I admit I was stirring the pot a little bit, but to be honest, I love my 10 dollar a qt oil and my 5 to 10k oci's. See ya'll next post.


Bologna!!!!

You got your butt backed into the corner, when it started pinching, you bailed out.

 

[Dupree]

Originally Posted By: twentynine
Originally Posted By: Bob The Builder
Hey everyone. I have to let you in on a little secret. I don't really think that oil is better just because it costs more. I do think that even though an engine is just an engine, we should run whatever we think is the best oil for it. It's all personal preference which is based on differing factors such as voa's, uoa's, length of time between oci's, how the engine feels and sounds and certainly not last I'm sure...which oil we like.

I admit I was stirring the pot a little bit, but to be honest, I love my 10 dollar a qt oil and my 5 to 10k oci's. See ya'll next post.


Bologna!!!!

You got your butt backed into the corner, when it started pinching, you bailed out.



I agree I think part of the reason this started is my thread of changing my jeep from amsoil hdd 5w-30 to rotella synthetic 5w-40, so I am going from my premium "liquid gold" to hunk of [censored] rotella. I feel the rotella syn will better serve me. No offense to the amsoil, I just feel 15k oci I was taking it was allowing to much dirt and other particulates to be introduced with oil in the crankcase that long. I feel rotella every 7500 oci will suit me better I will confirm with a uoa, oh also the rotella will be slightly cheaper in the long run but not the reason I am doing it. I also plan to auto rx

 

[globey]

Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr


Then I spend what I saved on oil on some nice fresh Gulf Shrimp. I know it's a terrigble thing I am doing feeding my 2008 jeep Pennzoil yellow bottle wile I eat like a king..


What a real jerk!

 

[FZ1]

Agree with the observation that we need to get the contaminates out with a change sooner,rather than later. This begs the question. How good an oil do I need for 4-5k. I think a medium priced syn is good enough for me for this oci.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
Agree with the observation that we need to get the contaminates out with a change sooner,rather than later. This begs the question. How good an oil do I need for 4-5k. I think a medium priced syn is good enough for me for this oci.


Not enough info to make a suggestion..

How many miles do you drive at a time? (cycle)

What type of engine?

Hwy / city?

4-5k in 98% of cars can use conventional with ease.

Bill

 

[Drew99GT]

Originally Posted By: Bob The Builder
Originally Posted By: twentynine
Hey Bob

Try to keep it on a friendly note.

Prove to me that I am hurting my engine using Pennsoil or Super Tech.

Prove to me that spending $5-$7-$9 a quart on oil you are making your engine last longer.

To tell you the perfect truth Bob, I use whatever I can find on sale or close out at a cost of $1 per quart or less. QS Q-Torque, Havoline DS, Coastal, Shell, Super Tech, Pennsoil, and a whole bunch of others I can't even remember. Presently paired with an AA oil filter that I got on the yearly 2fer1 sale. Guess what, just like you, I ain't had no failures.



I thought I was keeping it on a friendly note.

Bottom line is we are going off subject a little. The real problem is this attitude people have regarding price differences between oils. I don't feel that they are justified in making claims such as, "I won't buy so and so oil because I just won't pay 9 something for a qt of oil." To me that is ignorance. Companies need to turn a profit. (I am not talking about these companies profitting off gasoline.)

I personally cannot justify using a cheap oil in an expensive engine. They are all expensive engines. I know you won't blow up an engine by using a cheesy low quality oil like Supertech, but you will shorten its life...even if you do short interval oc's. Cheap oils just don't contain the additive packages necessary for lowered engine wear, longer oci's and less emissions.

Just my 2 cents.


You've proven you have no clue about motor oil. You've proven that most consumers are ignorant fools. Price = quality. NOPE.

Prove to me that the $.49 Chevron Supreme I just bought "lacks additives necessary for lowered engine wear".

PROVE IT!

I'll continue doing oil changes for $5 bucks and use the money saved compared to doing an Amsoil oil change and take my family out to dinner....in vehicles that have 220,000 miles and run perfectly using cheap conventional oil.

 

[Drew99GT]

Originally Posted By: Bob The Builder



I don't feel that they are justified in making claims such as, "I won't buy so and so oil because I just won't pay 9 something for a qt of oil." To me that is ignorance.


No, it's ignorant to think $9 a quart oil is somehow magically going to make an engine last longer.

In the grand scheme of taking a vehicle well past 200,000 miles, the oiling system in the engine is about the last thing that will "make it or break it" so to speak (If basic oil changes have been done on schedule). After 200K, the cooling system, the charging system, the suspension, the trans, the brakes etc.etc. etc. are the items that will need attention.

Unless you have an engine with known problems such as internal coolant leaks. Then you're a real fool for running $10 a quart oil!

Especially if you do 15,000 mile drains without a UOA.

In all honesty, for people that never lift the hood, super extended drains could end up being very costly as dropping oil and coolant levels would never be caught, where as they would be when the hood is lifted every 3K to 5K.

 

[Johnny]

Originally Posted By: Bob The Builder
[
PS I actually learned a couple of new and interesting tidbits recently. Pennzoil wasn't always known as such. In 1963, South Penn Oil merged with Zapata Petroleum to become Pennzoil. (Pennzapataoil hehe) Also, Jiffy Lube is a wholly owned subsidiary of Pennzoil-Quaker State Company. It was purchased in 1990.

I already knew about the Quaker State deal from back in '98.


Well, this is partially correct. South Penn Oil did merge with Zapata Petroleum to form the Pennzoil Company. But, the brand Pennzoil has been around for over 100 years. And, Jiffy Lube was a wholly owned subsidiary of the Pennzoil Company 8-years before Pennzoil bought Quaker State.

To make it absolutely correct, the Pennzoil Company was an energy corporation. Exploration, sulphur mines, gold and diamond mines, etc. There was a separate division of the Pennzoil Company called Pennzoil Products Company. This was the division that made and sold the Pennzoil brand of lubricants. It was this division that took over Jiffy Lube and it was this division that bought Quaker State. The Pennzoil Company sold it's sulphur, gold, and diamond mines in 1992 and it sold it's exploration business to Devon Energy in 1993. It was the Pennzoil Products Company that went in to a 50/50 partnership with Conoco to build the Excel Paralubes Refinery in Lafayette, LA. After Pennzoil Products Company purchased Quaker State Oil Corporation the company became the Pennzoil-Quaker State Company. This is what Shell Oil purchased in 2000. I think this brings us up to date.

 

[FZ1]

It's an 02 Honda Accord V6. Just like I stated in the previous post. I'm gonna change it about every 6 mos. with apprx 3500-4k mis. Once in Fall and once in Spring. I run the synthetic 'cause it's cheaper,as I get up to 1 mpg more. Plus I'm prefer syn over conv. I have a lot of short trips but most of the miles are highway pulling a small bass boat.

 

[Drew99GT]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
I run the synthetic 'cause it's cheaper,as I get up to 1 mpg more.


Lets see the math.