Penzoil 5w30 twice the noack volatility of 10w30

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Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
I consider the PP and QSUD synthetics in the 30 grade a bit weak for an LS-1 that is driven spirited at times.
Yes, I am finding this out the hard way on my current fill/OCI. frown I don't know if it is the low SAPS, the GTL base stock, lower grade VIIs (to get it's 0W rating and 204 VI??) or something else, but this oil does NOT 'like' even brief excursions into the upper RPM range. It is supposedly a 3.5 or greater HTHSV Euro formula, but the oil pressure is acting like a thinned out 0W-20 right now, after a ~10 minute "Italian Tune-Up" on the highway @5000-5200 RPM. Could it have sheared down that radically, and aerated that badly (the oil pressure gauge was bouncing down lower than it has EVER been since owning this car new at stop light idles after this highway run) just from this short high(er) rev use??? ??? I am ready to dump this stuff and put in Red Line 0W-40, or 300V 0W-40, winter ambients (IF we ever actually get them) be D***ED!
Try changing out the Fram Ultra filter to a Bosch Premium. I changed from a Fram Ultra to the Bosch Premium a couple of oil changes ago, and the oil pressure went up.
I DID change out the Ultra to an Amsoil EaO 64. The needle on the gauge STILL 'twitches' well below where it was with ANY other oil/mix I have ever used, at hot idle. WHAT are the symptoms of a worn (gear teeth?) gerotor type LSx oil pump, or of a broken/worn spring in the pump's pressure relief valve?? How likely is it (given the engine's mileage) that my Italian Tune- Up hurt the pump, or the relief valve?
I suppose worn oil pump gear teeth would cause low oil pressure and a sticking regulator could cause twitching of the pressure gauge needle. The needle on my pressure gauge has also started twitching in the last year (don't know exactly when it started). Or maybe it's just electrical noise? I always look for the cheap solution first. I don't think an Italian tuneup would cause the problem, it's more likely long-term wear and fatigue. I had my Camaro at VIR for two days in November, and the idle oil pressure when I came off the track from the 25 minute lapping sessions was 20 psi. This was on the summer mix of PU 5w30/PUE 5w40. But the oil pressure came back after the engine cooled, and was always OK in the next session. It was holding 30 psi down the straights at 5000+ rpm after about 5 laps. I'd be more comfortable if it was higher, but it doesn't seem to be hurt as it doesn't have any kind of bearing or valvetrain noise. It's just got the same cold piston slap that it's always had. I've adopted the fatalistic view that if it scatters, I'll chalk it up as experience, then put an LS3 in it. The Camaro needs more power anyway. And at 240,000 miles, the LS1 doesn't owe me a thing.
 
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Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I've adopted the fatalistic view that if it scatters, I'll chalk it up as experience, then put an LS3 in it. The Camaro needs more power anyway. And at 240,000 miles, the LS1 doesn't owe me a thing.
I am starting to think the same way. wink Phoenix Racing near me (used to campaign SCCA T1/T2 class, and other, road racing, f and y bodies) says that he does not 'trust' the Lingenfelter LS3 reluctor wheel translator, and actually opens up LS3s going into LS1/2/6 apps (still using their factory ECMs), and PRESSES ON the 24 tooth, older, reluctor wheels to the LS3 crank. shrug The other option would be something like what Danny Popp is running in his Ultimate Street Car C5 Z06; a screamer, de-stroked (to a 383), but built, LS7. Of course, his Vette weighs 500 lbs.(or MORE?!) less than our f bodies, which also lets him get away with a VERY small, ultra lightweight multi-disc racing clutch as well. But this is MUCHO $$$$$$$$$$$$$, and that is before I get the T56 rebuilt with TR6060/Magnum internals! frown
 
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