Pennzoil UP 0w-40, 10,112 mi, 1996 Nissan Maxima

[92saturnsl2]

This is a UOA from my daily driver, a '96 Nissan Maxima with about 242k miles. Engine is Nissan's first generation VQ V6 engine (VQ30DE). I drive this car primarily to work and back, 70 mile total commute. 80% highway, and 20% city. I put about 20k per year on the car; this OCI was from Sept. 30th of last year, and I changed it at the time of UOA. Oil filter used was a Hastings LF240 (equivalent to PH7317 in Fram-speak). Oil is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-40, the one branded with Dodge's SRT logo. I bought this stuff for $1 a quart during the late-year Autozone closeout. There is a VOA on the forum somewhere. I'm fairly impressed with the results aside from the lead which is a little perplexing. I can think of nothing that would cause a spike in lead-- the engine is running fine, no maintenance issues or anything of the sort. No hard driving or short trips. Only thing I can think of is that this OCI ran straight through the dead of winter, and it was a cold one this year with a lot of 0F degree days. Curious to hear thoughts and comments.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Use any Octane Booster additives? If you did heavy idle maybe. Maybe run it again with a M1/FU filter.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: Marco620

Use any Octane Booster additives?

Or fuel system cleaners?

 

[92saturnsl2]

I might have dumped a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel tank once or twice (none in oil), but really nothing worth noting. I use premium unleaded, as that's what the manufacturer recommends (printed on gas cap door). I don't always trust knock sensors to retard timing when using low-octane fuel, so I always put in Premium.

 

[OVERKILL]

Where are the folks poo-poo'ing the Fe? Stuck in the Mobil threads? LOL! Looks decent to me other than the lead, which could just be a particle streak, but could also be a cause for concern. Do you still have the filter to cut open? You could check for metal.

 

[92saturnsl2]

I do have the old filter, and will cut it open today or tomorrow. Previous filters I've cut open from this car have shown nothing unusual.

 

[92saturnsl2]

I forgot to mention in the original post that there was no make-up oil added. It was full when I started and about 1/2 quart low when I drained. Capacity is about 4.35 quarts with filter change.

 

[zorobabel]

Originally Posted By: 92saturnsl2

I forgot to mention in the original post that there was no make-up oil added. It was full when I started and about 1/2 quart low when I drained. Capacity is about 4.35 quarts with filter change.

What is "1/2 quart low" on your dipstick?

 

[Garak]

Just a glance at the universal averages shows high lead as it is, so do these engines shed a bit commonly? Without some trending, it's really hard to take one UOA and do much more than speculate about one lead number.

 

[aquariuscsm]

I have no idea if this V6 is anything similar to the one in my 300ZX,but I've done three uoa's and never had anything close to double digit wear metals. I'd rather run PP 10W30 in this Maxima.

 

[aquariuscsm]

I just now noticed your miles on this oil change. 10K is way too high for your Maxima. I wonder if Nissan specs 3/3K like it does on my 300ZX? You can probably find an fsm online.

 

[92saturnsl2]

Originally Posted By: zorobabel

What is "1/2 quart low" on your dipstick?

The dipstick lines (bottom to top) read approx. one quart low to full. When I drained, the level showing on the dipstick was halfway between the bottom line and the top. The half quart low statement was confirmed when I put the drain oil into containers for recycling-- just under 4 quarts.

 

[92saturnsl2]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm

I just now noticed your miles on this oil change. 10K is way too high for your Maxima. I wonder if Nissan specs 3/3K like it does on my 300ZX? You can probably find an fsm online.

I have the original owners manual, severe service calls for 3/3k changes. The normal schedule one is 1yr/7.5k. My driving/usage certainly qualifies me for the normal service schedule. Given that I used a high quality synthetic, I thought it appropriate to try for 10k. That's why I did a UOA. I will continue to get UOA to see how OCI affects the results.

 

[Artem]

I mean... if Lead accumulates the same as iron does in these engines, you ran double the average OCI and got pretty much double Lead. I don't see anything out of spec, really. I'm sure had you pulled a sample after 5k, you'd be at 9ppm, just like the average and just fine and dandy. If the engine seems happy and you're getting good gas mileage even towards the 10k mile mark of your OCI, I say you carry on with 10k runs on this quality Synthetic.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Artem

I mean... if Lead accumulates the same as iron does in these engines, you ran double the average OCI and got pretty much double Lead. I don't see anything out of spec, really. I'm sure had you pulled a sample after 5k, you'd be at 9ppm, just like the average and just fine and dandy. If the engine seems happy and you're getting good gas mileage even towards the 10k mile mark of your OCI, I say you carry on with 10k runs on this quality Synthetic.

It shouldn't. Lead is usually zero, it is not a metal that tracks with mileage generally, like with other bearing materials. You want it at or as close to zero as possible. Iron tracks with mileage.

 

[4WD]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL

Originally Posted By: Artem

I mean... if Lead accumulates the same as iron does in these engines, you ran double the average OCI and got pretty much double Lead. I don't see anything out of spec, really. I'm sure had you pulled a sample after 5k, you'd be at 9ppm, just like the average and just fine and dandy. If the engine seems happy and you're getting good gas mileage even towards the 10k mile mark of your OCI, I say you carry on with 10k runs on this quality Synthetic.

It shouldn't. Lead is usually zero, it is not a metal that tracks with mileage generally, like with other bearing materials. You want it at or as close to zero as possible. Iron tracks with mileage.

An example might be an iron block engine … one oil might sequester more iron … but hope it does not liberate lead in the same manner …

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: 4WD

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL

Originally Posted By: Artem

I mean... if Lead accumulates the same as iron does in these engines, you ran double the average OCI and got pretty much double Lead. I don't see anything out of spec, really. I'm sure had you pulled a sample after 5k, you'd be at 9ppm, just like the average and just fine and dandy. If the engine seems happy and you're getting good gas mileage even towards the 10k mile mark of your OCI, I say you carry on with 10k runs on this quality Synthetic.

It shouldn't. Lead is usually zero, it is not a metal that tracks with mileage generally, like with other bearing materials. You want it at or as close to zero as possible. Iron tracks with mileage.

An example might be an iron block engine … one oil might sequester more iron … but hope it does not liberate lead in the same manner …

Yep, and generally you have iron/steel components in boundary (cam/follower, rings/liner) whilst bearings are supposed to be hydrodynamic.

 

[camrydriver111]

The physical properties of the oil still look good but you have lead. I am scratching my head. What is the maintenance history of the vehicle? Did it see neglect in the past?

 

[zorobabel]

On my 97, one quart low puts me well bellow the low mark on the dipstick. Just last week I tested this when doing an oil change. I calculated that adding 3.25L of oil should be 1L low, with the larger filter (changed mounting nipple) I'm running. I drove the car for a day, checked the oil level the next morning and it was well bellow the low mark. I added 1L, drove it for another day, checked the oil level the next morning and it was a tiny bit bellow the full mark. They should have mentioned the oil capacity for the safe area on the dipstick the manual. Also, my manual has 3750 miles for severe service, and 7500 miles for regular OCI.

Originally Posted By: 92saturnsl2

Originally Posted By: zorobabel

What is "1/2 quart low" on your dipstick?

The dipstick lines (bottom to top) read approx. one quart low to full. When I drained, the level showing on the dipstick was halfway between the bottom line and the top. The half quart low statement was confirmed when I put the drain oil into containers for recycling-- just under 4 quarts.

 

[VNTS]

Is this the SRT 0w-40?