Pennz. Long-Life Over Delo?

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Aug 10, 2003
College Dorm...
Looking for some opinions here... Choose to run Delo 15w-40 in my truck because, at least based on spec. sheets, it looks like the best mineral-based HDEO 15w-40 out there. With that said though, I'm getting kinda interested in Pennz. Long-Life, pretty much solely for the fact that they use Moly in their CI-4/SL formulation. Can some of you guys here give me some more insight on the moly issue and the benefits/negatives of it (hey, I just started reading my book, so I don't know a great deal yet!) and whether it makes Long-Life a competitor to Delo?
Jelly: It's my understanding (and I'm sure one of the more learned BITOG board members will correct me if I'm wrong) that the Chevron Delo 400 uses a base stock that is superior to most, if not all, of the other "conventional" 15W-40 fleet oils. I agree, however, that in comparing just the additive packages, the Pennzoil Long Life and Valvoline Premium Blue look pretty darn good.
Thanks Mike for your response. Like you said though, we need some of the more "learned" members of this site to chime in here... Benefits of moly? Negatives of moly? Why don't Rotella, Delo, and Delvac use moly? Does use of moly in Long-Life make it a oil comparable to Delo?
I would take a wild guess and say Delo is the about the best there is. Then all of the ci4 oils are incredible .The ci4 is a hard spec.for the oil companies to meet. Shell had to switch to a group II oil . Moly does not seem to make a difference unless the zinc is lowered. Seat of the pants Delo seems better in my 92 toyota 6 cyl. p/u and my wifes ford power stroke. alot better than Delvac 1300. I tried Penz longlife in my boat but I couldn't tell any difference. Probobly there aren't any difference in u.o.a.'s to brag about. Try them and let us know.
Thanks Steve, I heard that Shell went to a group II, but isn't Delvac 1300 a mix between group I and II...believe I read that somewhere. On this topic, what group does Long-Life fall into (probably group II). Anyways, my issue with moly is how it affects cold start-up, and possible reductions in metal-to-metal wear. If the moly in Long-Life acts as a "film" on parts after it "plates up", wouldn't that significantly reduce wear and noise upon startup until oil reach those areas?
Originally posted by Jelly: Thanks Mike for your response. Like you said though, we need some of the more "learned" members of this site to chime in here... -- I know nothing other than school of knocks some hard and some not. I'm a newbie. ************************************************ Benefits of moly? -- Reduced friction/[heat(likes and does better)] Better MPG Reduced metal contact upon start and operation Less Wear Heavy loads and certainly temp. will Lower the level of friction, helping reduce wear. Clings to metal that has been treated even after oil has been removed. Has to be WORN away once plated (don't know how long it takes). Usually gives a much faster Cranking speed (better in cold environments). Horse Power I think increase a tad. Saves Money. Acts as like a bumper or buffer for acids (so they attack first the moly). ?? probably more I cant think of 'em. I think also that the engine seems to stay clean longer with high doses **************************************** Negatives of moly? ---- Can fight with other EP's for the metal Need to be in proper balance so attempting a home brew is a lot harder and dangerous unless you have expert help...IMHO. The oil needs to Have a healthy dose or the moly will not function at it's best, and IMO there are very few Moly oils that make the grade. This is not to say they don't help, but maximum protection is not reached. If the Oil has a very healthy dose, then the oil has to be formulated better and the oil will appear to cost more per quart. Why don't Rotella, Delo, and Delvac use moly? Does use of moly in Long-Life make it a oil comparable to Delo?
Not apples to apples. Delo is a darn good oil for what it is... so is Rotella, two top selling anf favorite oils of many many people, no matter what oil is better, they have a following, and they are good oils. As far as their Moly, IMO, I would in my application only consider ones with moly in the 160-250 Minimum range (250-400+ better) if I was wanting to have moly there. Anything less than 80-120 it might as well not be there. Anything less that 180-200 (it will not replenish). --by the way, these numbers I'm just pulling out of the air-- okay, they are not in stone! Just from the school of hard knocks and testing MPG, and memory among other things. It's okay to use an oil without moly, theres nothing wrong with an oil with little or no moly, but in todays engines IMO I think it's a wiser choice because they are hotter, and because they are tighter, and because the oil is pushed to its extremes more often... just nice to have some kinda BUMPER there.
As far as I know, the Base oils in both Delo4000 and Pennz Long Life are Group II+ base. So, I'd guess they were a tie ... or pretty close to it. The Pennzoil additive package looks better with moly and boron. The UOAs seem to favor Delo400 ... but there are too few in gasoline engines. I guess the jury is still out. [I dont know] Right now I'm using Schaeffer 15W40 synthetic blend in all my lawn & garden equipment. Probably better than both of those others. [Wink] --- Bror Jace
I'm a strong believer in Delo, but Johnny said onece on thisboard that Pennzoil is a good group II base with a Chevron additive package, so it should be good as well, at least at that time. No telling what Shell has done with it now. Just be careful that since this is an international board, products change DRASTICALLY across boarders.
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