PCV valve quality difference: OEM Honda vs Fram

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From what I saw and heard from guys in parts store, they say OEM is always better, fit better, last longer, etc even if they are selling aftermarket.

But it is $13.00 vs. $4.00 for Fram. So I am wondering, is it worth the extra? The Fram I saw looks and feels cheap, but is PCV that complex of a device that need that much attention to detail?
 
Go OEM and you cant go wrong. I bought an aftermarket PCV and the crappything flowed well BOTH ways. Kept that thing for about a week until the new OEM came in
 
here's a little secret: the oem are most likely an off-the-shelf aftermarket equivalent....If i ran a design team and we spent time designing custom PCV, we never would get a product out on time.

The oem MAY last longer, be better, etc, but then again, it may not. Auto makers often have separate sources for production vs dealer spares.

Get the $4 one, and check it when you are supposed to. You can replace it 3x and still be ahead. Even if you cough up $14, you still need to check it regularly.
 
Take a dive and got a Fram. All of them looks cheap despite I pick the best one. The edges of the plastic molding is bad but the thing rattle like it should.

Opened it up, suck from one side it is sealed, the other side will flow within a particular pressure, I guess it works.

Will report how it works in my car.
 
i been wondering the same thing. i bought a pcv valve and it didnt rattle like it was suppose to. i dont think it makes a difference. i hear you can get the old one and put degreeser all over it and clean it up that way. that what i hear. i know i didnt really answer your question but i told u my experiecne
 
I paid c$31 for the OEM Honda here. There were no aftermarket ones to be had. The original one was in there for over 100,000 miles, though, so they do last.
 
Every PCV ive come across in old cars, I just give them a good soak in some degreaser. They clean up pretty well after that!
 
I bought a PCV from Auto Zone about a year ago. It cost $1.50, and noticed nothing different about it compared to the factory PCV. I don't think the PCV was a Fram brand.

If one is worried about the quality of an aftermarket PCV, then I would place my trust in Napa parts.

Also can anyone tell me how does one go about checking the PCV? Just pop off the PCV tube/hose while the engine is running, and check the end of the PCV?

Or should the PCV be taken out to see how much sludge is built up or if the little beat stills rattles?
 
Best mechanic I know will not use anything but factory parts if they are available. He says he can't afford to use the others due to failures and having to redo the job and eat the parts and labor. I hate to spend the extra $$$ too, but there is usually a difference.

My$0.02
 
true i see that point. but sometimes factory parts fail too. I am pretty sure there is no honda factory that makes **** pcv valve i got that i am still concern does not rattle. but yea u know what, i dont think it really matters, i think crap will happen to you if you do or if you dont, just the luck of the draw, cause no one can say all honda parts are 100 percent and same with fram or whatever
 
Toke the Honda PCV out, and replace it with Fram PCV.

The Honda one looks better in fit and finish, no rough edges unbeveled like Fram, the valve seems more precise but after 160k or usage, it is gummy, but still rattle a bit.

Start the engine up with the Fram, idle and throttle response are much smoother, will leave it in for a few more days to see how it goes, and meanwhile soak my Honda PCV in paint thinner to see if it cleans up in a few days.
 
Twice I bought aftermarket PCV valves for my two Hondas. I can't tell you much about the performance, because they didn't even fit! I had them match part numbers in the computer, so it was the right one. The first one physically didn't fit because I needed one with an elbow, and the straight one they claimed was right couldn't be installed because there wasn't enough clearance to install the hose.
The second one for another car fit, but was so loose, it would have caused a vacuum leak.
I only buy OEM now.
 
Hmm, I just replaced my Hyundai oe with a Bosch? one from Auto Zone. Only difference I could see is the OEM one was painted black, the other was bare metal. Looked identical. Guess it is a Honda/Fram thing.
 
It's on a case by case basis, but like other posters have said, aftermarket PCV valves my not be flow metered properly, or they just plain dont fit right, pop out of their seat, etc.. You can get excessive oil carry-over into the intake with a poorly 'designed' A/M PCV valve as well. I like to just clean up the original OEM with intake cleaner for as long as I can. I can't say I've ever had a newer on go bad?!? They keep their check valve properties for a looooong time if you clean them.
G/luck
Joel
 
Tuong: Hey, I work in Milpitas too. I put it in paint thinner because that what I have at home, and from my previous experience in cleaning gummed up garage door rail and other oily stuff it works pretty well. I put the PCV in a sealed pickle jar with some paint thinner and will see how it is in a few days.

JTK: yeah, the fit and finish of Fram is not good, I was using finger nail clipper, box cutter, and a file to polish the heck out of it. I hate to go to Honda because they are far from my place, so it is more of a convenience for me to get Fram from my local Kragen.
 
I had a work van I had tuned up and one of the parts I replaced was the PCV valve (with a Fram part). I noticed I started to use oil about 1 qt/1000 miles, normally I would go a full 3,000 miles with out adding any oil.

After scratching my head checking for leaks, pulling plugs looking for fouling, and a compression check, I decided to pull the PCV valve and put an OEM valve in. The van stopped using oil!

Frank D
 
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