PC 7424 new user

[steve20]

I am about to order from AutoGeek. They have some kits available as well. Any opinions on the effectiveness of the Pinnacle products?

http://www.autogeek.net/pitwpocaspof.html


This will be used on a black 03 Acura trunk lid that needs to be brought back to life, as well as blending a small area repaired and touched up with DupliColor spray can. I know it's not going to look like new, but my friend is looking for an improvement over what he has now.
I plan on using Zaino Z5 and All In One as the finishing products
Is the kit listed in the link a good value at 179.99?

Steve

 

[Familyguy]

The PC is a great starter unit. It's very difficult to damage your paint with it. That said, it's also not that easy to correct damaged paint with it. For paint that is in OK shape and using quality polish, it's just fine though. I've had good luck with polishes from Adams (adamspolishes.com) and from Menzerna (P106ff polish and FMJ synthetic sealer instead of wax).

That price is about average. If you're going to be serious about detailing, the orange and black pad combo isn't enough. Orange is too aggressive for most uses and black is just to apply wax.

 

[MKZman]

Familyguy is really saying that paints can be different. You may need several types. Using Lake Country colors (LC) you should have orange, white, black, and blue/red in your kit. You should do a test spot using a less aggressive method and then work up.

From what I read and saw in person (never used them personally), the Pinnacle twins is not a bad starting spot. I think you can accomplish many tasks but it may take an additional pass than the best polishes (I like Meg's M105). I have used Ag's Wolfgang Polishes made by Menzerna (supposedly SIP/106FA equivalents).

 

[bretfraz]

That's a good kit and a very reasonable price. The polishes and and pads look like a good match.

If you can swing it, a wider variety of pads and polishes would be ideal, but that combo kit is plenty to get you started.

The orange pad is about as aggressive you want to use with a PC. The black one is fine for the lighter swirl mark remover polish. Most of the serious polishing I've been doing is with orange pads, and light finish polishing is with black or similar.

Spent 12 hours yesterday working on this. Used my PC, Surbuf pads, Meguiars M105, small orange pads for tight areas, black Lake Country pads and Meguiars M205 for the finish polishing:


BEFORE

AFTER

 

[JBM]

Here are some links that will be helpfull.

http://www.auto-geek.net/charts/buffing-pad-chart-lc.htm

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33287

You will have better results with a pad a step up from the black one after a strong polish. Save the black one for applying AIO or a cleaner wax or glaze.

The pinnacle polishes are eh , ok, not amazing. The Wolfgang final polish is a Mez polish and is amazing.

Anyways, you would most likely have great results from using Ultimate Compound and ScratchX 2.0 with the orange pad followed by the white pad, if you were to get one. When using a strong polish/ compound, know when to say when. I wouldnt do more than 3 attempts with the compound/ orange pad. You cant get all of the scratches.

I love auto geek, but i feel they bundled that kit to move some polish that doesnt sell to well.

 

[bretfraz]

That polish comparo chart at MOL is terrible. I wouldn't trust that information at all.

The pad chart is pretty good as it compares pads from only one mfr, Lake Country.

As for polishing, there are lots of ways to skin a cat. The number of possible combination's of pad/polish/machine/speed/pressure/time are impossible to calculate. Best thing to do is start with a safe basic combo and get to work. In time you'll find a set up that works for you.

 

[bustednutz]

Originally Posted By: bretfraz
That's a good kit and a very reasonable price. The polishes and and pads look like a good match.

If you can swing it, a wider variety of pads and polishes would be ideal, but that combo kit is plenty to get you started.

The orange pad is about as aggressive you want to use with a PC. The black one is fine for the lighter swirl mark remover polish. Most of the serious polishing I've been doing is with orange pads, and light finish polishing is with black or similar.

Spent 12 hours yesterday working on this. Used my PC, Surbuf pads, Meguiars M105, small orange pads for tight areas, black Lake Country pads and Meguiars M205 for the finish polishing:


BEFORE

AFTER

Those look like DA sand scratches from previous bodywork. They obviously didn't use a smooth enough cut for the final sanding prior to painting.

 

[ionbeam22]

I always get suspicious of DA polishers, and people who want to "correct" the paint on the car by grinding it off.

Anywho, All you really need are Meguires polishing and finishing pads, and then some chemicals. Of which you'll find

Turtle Wax Premium Grade Rubbing Compound Turtle Wax Premium Grade Polishing Compound KIT Scratch Out liquid
You can get these all at autozone, or any decent auto supply place. Much cheaper than "professional" compounds and far less likely to get you into trouble. Trying to get a flawless finish costs you alot of paint, and the car will get scratched up again. Also stay away from plastic panels such as bumpers/rear fenders. You can build up alot of heat very quickly, and the paint on those surfaces is "rubbery" compared to the paint on metalic panels.

IMHO the secret weapon of auto polishing is KIT Scratch Out + Turtle Wax Ice. If you create a smooth clean surface, the TW Ice takes care of the rest.

 

[bretfraz]

Originally Posted By: bustednutz



Those look like DA sand scratches from previous bodywork. They obviously didn't use a smooth enough cut for the final sanding prior to painting.


Exactly right. Another "detailer" got ahold of this car and butchered it. There were areas of the car he attempted to polish out and turned the paint into a dull mess. That guy should have never been hired to do the work.

 

[RTexasF]

Originally Posted By: bretfraz
Originally Posted By: bustednutz



Those look like DA sand scratches from previous bodywork. They obviously didn't use a smooth enough cut for the final sanding prior to painting.


Exactly right. Another "detailer" got ahold of this car and butchered it. There were areas of the car he attempted to polish out and turned the paint into a dull mess. That guy should have never been hired to do the work.


Although no close up of the "after" was shown are you saying you removed all those disc sander marks with a PC? No rotary work at all?

 

[bretfraz]

Originally Posted By: RTexasF
Originally Posted By: bretfraz
Originally Posted By: bustednutz



Those look like DA sand scratches from previous bodywork. They obviously didn't use a smooth enough cut for the final sanding prior to painting.


Exactly right. Another "detailer" got ahold of this car and butchered it. There were areas of the car he attempted to polish out and turned the paint into a dull mess. That guy should have never been hired to do the work.


Although no close up of the "after" was shown are you saying you removed all those disc sander marks with a PC? No rotary work at all?


Never touched the rotary. I've been bringing them (I take two machines) to every detail I do, but have not used one in almost a year. Kinda miss it, actually. The action of a rotary polisher with a nice wool pad is so smooth.

Sorry about the pics, I didn't take them so those are the best available to me.

 

[Vikas]

No offense but from that distance and with that angle, I can get my 1999 beater Camry to look good too! Granted, I used Druagloss 501 and 921 on it.

I think you should have had before and after pictures of the same panel and the same angle and same lighting before evaluating procedure.

- Vikas

 

[steve20]

thanks for the help guys-I've done this type of work before, but that was about 20 years ago, and things have definately changed.
Imagine, there is no such thing as Liquid Ebony anymore.........oh the pain

Steve

 

[bretfraz]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
No offense but from that distance and with that angle, I can get my 1999 beater Camry to look good too! Granted, I used Druagloss 501 and 921 on it.

I think you should have had before and after pictures of the same panel and the same angle and same lighting before evaluating procedure.

- Vikas


As I said, I did not take the pics so I only have access to what you see. We normally do take "before", "during", and "after" pics but I have no control over the images.

The point is not photography. The point is that serious correction can be done with a PC if used in a specific manner. I realize these pics may not illustrate that point very well, but the end result is what counts.

 

[bretfraz]

Better pics and a full write-up of the Corvette detail in question:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/car-care...p-at-night.html