Passat Sludge/Coking Suggestions

[Neversky]

So I have a 98 Passat 1.8T, I bought it used so I didn't know about the need for full synthetic. I bought it, let it run til it was due, changed the oil once, and now it's due again but not working very well. The oil light just came on and the engine is making a ticking noise. I haven't driven it since this started. I googled it and found out this sludging/coking issue. The more I read the more confused I get.

I want to know the simplest route to fix it. I've heard people say good and bad things about Seafoam and Auto-Rx. What I want to know is, can it hurt? I don't want to jump straight to taking it to a mechanic to have the pan dropped and oil pickup screen replaced if there is a simple method that may work.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Seafoam and Auto-Rx can't hurt, but most likely won't help either. These sludge issues are pretty serious and usually require taking the engine apart to properly clean. Oil pump will also have to be replaced.

 

[Mucho_MPG]

VW vehicles...so very unreliable. Why do people buy these pieces of [censored]? Sell it right away and buy a Toyota or something more reliable.

 

[Solo2driver]

Oil Pressure Light, or Replace Engine Light?

A friend of mine asked me to change her oil in her Saturn because the "oil light" was on, so it was time to change. I told her that her car does not have such a light. So she showed me. Yup, Oil Pressure Light. Replaced the engine a few weeks later. Just FYI.

Have it checked to ensure that 1) there is oil in it, 2) that the Oil Pressure Sender is not just bad/giving false signals. With the accompanied bad noises/ticking, I would say that the low oil pressure is probably correct. Don't drive it with low pressure, have it towed.

 

[simple_gifts]

Quote:

VW vehicles...so very unreliable


So very unhelpful.

To the OP; you might want to check the auto-rx page any way. Nothing @ this point will probably do harm.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: Mucho_MPG
VW vehicles...so very unreliable.

The sludge issue is a VoA mistake, not a design/reliability issue per se. Back in those years, VoA did not specify/use the correct oil (VW502.00 spec/synthetic) in those engines and that resulted in sludging.

Quote:
Why do people buy these pieces of [censored]? Sell it right away and buy a Toyota or something more reliable.

Not everyone enjoys falling asleep behind the wheel.

 

[BrianWC]

I don't know about the layout of the oilpan in the Passat, but in my SAAB 9-5, you can take a straightened coathanger and poke around through the drain hole to gauge the built up deposits that might be clogging the oil pickup screen. As long as you can do this fairly regularly and insure it's not clogged, arx would be a hassle-free way to go.

 

[momomeister]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete

The sludge issue is a VoA mistake, not a design/reliability issue per se. Back in those years, VoA did not specify/use the correct oil (VW502.00 spec/synthetic) in those engines and that resulted in sludging.


I wouldn't go that far.

I believe (if my memory is correct since I haven't looked at it in a long time on this site) Toyota had problems with the V6 in the first gen Sienna sludging up because the engine ran very hot so it cooked the dino. So, if I'm not mistaken, rumor was that Toyota redesigned the V6. If Toyota had an equivalent to the VW502.00 spec, they probably wouldn't have had the sludge problems.

However, to answer the OP question, trying AutoRX probably won't do more harm to the motor. Heck, the check oil light came on and you know it's sludged up..

 

[Ken2]

With the oil low-pressure light on, I'd drop the pan and clean the oil pickup screen, then do a complete Auto-Rx cleaning routine.

 

[coffee]

I think changing the oil to Rotella T Synthetic 5w40 and adding AutoRx for the cleaning phase and then just stick with Rotella from then on as it is a great oil for your situation and the AutoRx can help get you back on track.

 

[VK56VD]

I'd run the Amsoil flush through it, put a quality synthetic in, drive for 1-2k miles, run another flush (BG or Amsoil) change the oil to quality synthetic, drive for 2k miles, change the oil, and run 2 cycles of Auto-RX. I would then switch to a quality synthetic and change it every 5k miles.

 

[Turbo_777]

Quote:
Why do people buy these pieces of [censored]? Sell it right away and buy a Toyota or something more reliable.

Not everyone enjoys falling asleep behind the wheel.
[/quote]

I have driven the latest Toyota's (Auris, Yaris, Corolla) and honestly they are such junk compared to some of the other brands out there...BMW, Merc, VW, Suzuki, Honda...are streaks ahead.

 

[Neversky]

Well I'm gonna change the oil and throw some Mobil1 0W-40 in it. I think I'm gonna try the Seafoam since I can get it at the local autozone. Auto-Rx I have to order and wait for. I don't know which is better or how much of a difference there is but I assume that if either of them can clear the sludge enough to get the oil pressure back up to normal, good oil and frequent changes should keep it going at least for a while. The last oil change was synthetic blend. I never knew that full synthetic was necessary. If that doesn't work I'll just have to let it sit again for awhile cuz I can't afford to have someone clean the oil pickup screen. It just started doing this so I assume that if there is a clog it couldn't be THAT bad.

 

[oilyriser]

How about draining the oil, then putting 1.5 quarts of an aggressive paint stripper type solvent or cleaner through the dipstick tube, and letting it soak for a few days, then draining, rinsing by filling it with 2 quarts of kerosene through the dipstick tube, and finally draining again and refilling with oil?

 

[wolfc70]

Originally Posted By: Neversky
So I have a 98 Passat 1.8T, I bought it used so I didn't know about the need for full synthetic. I bought it, let it run til it was due, changed the oil once, and now it's due again but not working very well. The oil light just came on and the engine is making a ticking noise. I haven't driven it since this started. I googled it and found out this sludging/coking issue. The more I read the more confused I get.

I want to know the simplest route to fix it. I've heard people say good and bad things about Seafoam and Auto-Rx. What I want to know is, can it hurt? I don't want to jump straight to taking it to a mechanic to have the pan dropped and oil pickup screen replaced if there is a simple method that may work.


I would drop the pan and replace the oil pump and pickup tube. The 1.8t has a history of eating oil pumps if sludged. I would hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge to see what kind of PSI you are getting. Some people have been successful in recovering the engine, most have not. Dropping the pan is a pain because you have to either raise the engine 3-4 inches, or remove the front crossmember. Either way expect to spend five to six hours on the project the first time.

 

[wolfc70]

Originally Posted By: oilyriser
How about draining the oil, then putting 1.5 quarts of an aggressive paint stripper type solvent or cleaner through the dipstick tube, and letting it soak for a few days, then draining, rinsing by filling it with 2 quarts of kerosene through the dipstick tube, and finally draining again and refilling with oil?


This is not going to help, on my friends Passat, every chemical we threw at the sludge in the pan never did anything. We used a cold chisel and a wire wheel to get this stuff off of the pan. Most 1.8t do not get sludge, it is oil coking from the turbo, also called "turbo turds". VW engines are tough, as long as the cam bearings are ok, the engine will run fine if you replace the oil pump. There also is a fine screen on the cam chain adjuster, and that will clog up and stop working, so you may get some cam chain noise after awhile. Proper cool down of the turbo will help greatly, as will replacing everything related to the PCV system, as usually the hoses get plugged up. You have some major work ahead of you, but it should not cost much more than a few grand to get back on the road, less if you do the work your self. Hope this helps!

 

[BrianWC]

I'd pay attention to the folks with first-hand VW experience. Wow. Glad SAABs don't have "cam chain adjuster screens." One more thing to go wrong!

 

[ARB1977]

Originally Posted By: Mucho_MPG
VW vehicles...so very unreliable. Why do people buy these pieces of [censored]? Sell it right away and buy a Toyota or something more reliable.

Sure about that...My wifes 97 Jetta has been awesome.

 

[drivewaytech]

Originally Posted By: Ken2
With the oil low-pressure light on, I'd drop the pan and clean the oil pickup screen, then do a complete Auto-Rx cleaning routine.


This is sound advice. Since the oil light is already lighting up, you are either very low on oil or the oil pump screen is becoming clogged. Throwing a bunch of cleaners in there and potentially breaking crud loose will cause the pump screen to become more clogged. If you haven't already, check the dipstick to see how much oil is left in there. If you show plenty of oil on the stick, chances are your pump screen is rather clogged. If the ticking has just begun, I would be a little less worried about a spun bearing or other component allowing unrestricted flow; thus causing a drop in oil pressure. If you have another mode of transportation, get under the car and take pictures of oil pan and surrounding area. Study what you need to do and take your time. Pulling the oil pan and then the pump screen will cost you nothing but time, plus will give you an idea of what you are dealing with. There are a lot of good patient people on this forum that enjoy problem solving or offering advise. Don't feel hesitant to ask plenty of questions.

 

[chet2]

i think i would buy a non turbo crate engine and put it in if there is not a simple fix...