Will be parking two vehicles for several months..Reside in southern Ontario area...Put fresh oil in before parking, or wait till spring then change? Seems like it would be best to do it before parking to me..Opinions appreciated...
Parking Vette and 09 Corolla for 6 months question
- Thread starter dbvettez061
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I've been seasonally storing cars, jeeps, boats, etc for over 20 years. absolutely change the oil first - old oil can precipitate out the contaminents and leave sludge in the oil pan, also, if the oil happens to be acidic, it can actually etch your copper bearings. also, add stabil to the gas tank and run it a bit before storing. and disconnect the batteries: the ECM still draws power and will discharge the battery which can kill it. also, a discharged battery can freeze. best actually to remove the battery from the car.
Originally Posted By: tomcat27
I've been seasonally storing cars, jeeps, boats, etc for over 20 years. absolutely change the oil first - old oil can precipitate out the contaminents and leave sludge in the oil pan, also, if the oil happens to be acidic, it can actually etch your copper bearings. also, add stabil to the gas tank and run it a bit before storing. and disconnect the batteries: the ECM still draws power and will discharge the battery which can kill it. also, a discharged battery can freeze. best actually to remove the battery from the car.
I often have to store vehicles for 6+ months while I deploy and I do the same. I change oil when I get back too.
I've been seasonally storing cars, jeeps, boats, etc for over 20 years. absolutely change the oil first - old oil can precipitate out the contaminents and leave sludge in the oil pan, also, if the oil happens to be acidic, it can actually etch your copper bearings. also, add stabil to the gas tank and run it a bit before storing. and disconnect the batteries: the ECM still draws power and will discharge the battery which can kill it. also, a discharged battery can freeze. best actually to remove the battery from the car.
I often have to store vehicles for 6+ months while I deploy and I do the same. I change oil when I get back too.
I agree you should change your oil prior to storage for all the same reasons Tomcat gives. After the oil change, make sure you go for a long ride (not a long idle) to remove all moisture.
Before starting it the first time after storage, I suggest you prime your oil pump prior to firing up your engine. You can disconnect the ignition & fuel pump fuse and crank the engine a few seconds. If you're anal, you can remove your oil pressure sender and squirt fresh oil in to fill up the galleys and the filter.
Before starting it the first time after storage, I suggest you prime your oil pump prior to firing up your engine. You can disconnect the ignition & fuel pump fuse and crank the engine a few seconds. If you're anal, you can remove your oil pressure sender and squirt fresh oil in to fill up the galleys and the filter.
Or you can hook up one of those "slow drip" battery chargers to avoid having to reset the entire electrical apparatus ...a royal pain.
I am doing this same thing, too. I would really like to know:
Will starting up once per month help? I understand about fuel dilution, so, would revving it up to 1500-2000 RPM'S and holding for 15-20 minutes heat things up adequately? Or would it be better to just start for 30 seconds or so, then shut off to minimize time and amount of dilution? Or not start at all (if you don't fog).
Also, would a good synthetic help?
Thanks.
Will starting up once per month help? I understand about fuel dilution, so, would revving it up to 1500-2000 RPM'S and holding for 15-20 minutes heat things up adequately? Or would it be better to just start for 30 seconds or so, then shut off to minimize time and amount of dilution? Or not start at all (if you don't fog).
Also, would a good synthetic help?
Thanks.
I always jack a vechile up so that they are not supporting their weight on the wheels. In older car's sitting in one spot on their wheel bearing can cause rust to form in the shape of flat spots. I used to raise the car up then give the wheels a good spin to make sure all the bearing had some oil on them.
I like to use battery tenders for storage!
I also like to change the oil prior to storage. I usualy use a cheap oil that I would not leave in and run but is cheap and clean.Oil picks up mositure so no sense putting expensive oil in it for storage a cheap 5W30 that will do ok if you decide to go start it up dureing storage is all it needs to be.
I like to use battery tenders for storage!
I also like to change the oil prior to storage. I usualy use a cheap oil that I would not leave in and run but is cheap and clean.Oil picks up mositure so no sense putting expensive oil in it for storage a cheap 5W30 that will do ok if you decide to go start it up dureing storage is all it needs to be.
Originally Posted By: tomcat27
I've been seasonally storing cars, jeeps, boats, etc for over 20 years. absolutely change the oil first - old oil can precipitate out the contaminents and leave sludge in the oil pan, also, if the oil happens to be acidic, it can actually etch your copper bearings. also, add stabil to the gas tank and run it a bit before storing. and disconnect the batteries: the ECM still draws power and will discharge the battery which can kill it. also, a discharged battery can freeze. best actually to remove the battery from the car.
Good points, I'd like to add, drop a quart of MMO into the gas along with the stabil just before filling it. Take the car for about a 30 minute run, then put it away and prep it. The MMO will coat the combustion chamber and keep things from flash rusting or gumming up. Taking weight off the suspension, and blocking the exhaust and intake from little varmints is a good idea as well. Last thing you need is a furry creature setting up shop in the tail pipe.
I've been seasonally storing cars, jeeps, boats, etc for over 20 years. absolutely change the oil first - old oil can precipitate out the contaminents and leave sludge in the oil pan, also, if the oil happens to be acidic, it can actually etch your copper bearings. also, add stabil to the gas tank and run it a bit before storing. and disconnect the batteries: the ECM still draws power and will discharge the battery which can kill it. also, a discharged battery can freeze. best actually to remove the battery from the car.
Good points, I'd like to add, drop a quart of MMO into the gas along with the stabil just before filling it. Take the car for about a 30 minute run, then put it away and prep it. The MMO will coat the combustion chamber and keep things from flash rusting or gumming up. Taking weight off the suspension, and blocking the exhaust and intake from little varmints is a good idea as well. Last thing you need is a furry creature setting up shop in the tail pipe.
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
I am doing this same thing, too. I would really like to know:
Will starting up once per month help? I understand about fuel dilution, so, would revving it up to 1500-2000 RPM'S and holding for 15-20 minutes heat things up adequately? Or would it be better to just start for 30 seconds or so, then shut off to minimize time and amount of dilution? Or not start at all (if you don't fog).
Also, would a good synthetic help?
Thanks.
If you plan on storing the car for a long period of time follow the suggestions in this thread and leave the car off. Starting it and idling it for an extended period of time is not as good as driving the car, so I'd leave it off. We've stored my son's car for three tours of duty in Afghanistan and upon his return he'd charge up the battery, fire the car up, and go, no issues.
I am doing this same thing, too. I would really like to know:
Will starting up once per month help? I understand about fuel dilution, so, would revving it up to 1500-2000 RPM'S and holding for 15-20 minutes heat things up adequately? Or would it be better to just start for 30 seconds or so, then shut off to minimize time and amount of dilution? Or not start at all (if you don't fog).
Also, would a good synthetic help?
Thanks.
If you plan on storing the car for a long period of time follow the suggestions in this thread and leave the car off. Starting it and idling it for an extended period of time is not as good as driving the car, so I'd leave it off. We've stored my son's car for three tours of duty in Afghanistan and upon his return he'd charge up the battery, fire the car up, and go, no issues.
seeing you are from Ontario, if you are leaving the vehicles inside on concrete put a sheet of plastic down so the moisture does not corrode your brake rotors, and do not apply the parking brake.
If you have fresh oil, any starting would only serve to contaminate it.
Keep the battery charged, and get the weight off of the tires. Or at least run up the tire pressure high.
Keep the battery charged, and get the weight off of the tires. Or at least run up the tire pressure high.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
I understand about fuel dilution, so, would revving it up to 1500-2000 RPM'S and holding for 15-20 minutes heat things up adequately?
Starting it and idling it for an extended period of time is not as good as driving the car, so I'd leave it off.
What about running at 2000 rpm's, instead of ideling?
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
I understand about fuel dilution, so, would revving it up to 1500-2000 RPM'S and holding for 15-20 minutes heat things up adequately?
Starting it and idling it for an extended period of time is not as good as driving the car, so I'd leave it off.
What about running at 2000 rpm's, instead of ideling?
Originally Posted By: dbvettez061
Will be parking two vehicles for several months..Reside in southern Ontario area...Put fresh oil in before parking, or wait till spring then change? Seems like it would be best to do it before parking to me..Opinions appreciated...
Change the oil before storage. "Immediately" is not a concern, but you can do that if you DIY. Use gasoline stabilizer and fill the tank as full as you can just prior to storage. If you can, spray some fogging oil in through the plug holes. I would also pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the fogged engine over to distribute the oil. Plug all of the orifices (exhaust pipes, air inakes) with steel wool in ziploc bags to keep rodents out. Run the tire pressures up to 50psi to help prevent flat spots. Chock the wheels and don't leave a manual in gear or set the parking brake (if possible and secure in your storage location) as they can stick. Consider removing the batteries and leaving them on a trickle tender, or at least disconnect them so alarm systems etc... don't run them down.
Don't start them unless you're prepared to run them for 20-30 minutes on the road (not idling in the driveway) to circulate and dry all lubricants. Do not start them every month to idle for 15 minutes. You're doing more harm than good.
Charge your batteries with an AC charger (removed from the car and inside your dwelling if need be - careful of hydrogen) Remove the bags with steel wool. When I would retrieve mine I would puff more fogging oil and run on the starter without the fuel pump fuse again to lube the cylinder well. I could usually observe oil pressure building on the gauge too. Torque the plugs. Set the tire pressure. Get an idea that none of the brakes are stuck. Set parking brake, unchock, replace all fuses. Start them up. Observe that everything stabilizes. GO FOR A 30 MINUTE DRIVE - get everything up to operating temperature and boil any water out of the oil.
That was more or less my storage routine for my Porsche in Toronto. There was more stuff, but it's not worth getting into.
Will be parking two vehicles for several months..Reside in southern Ontario area...Put fresh oil in before parking, or wait till spring then change? Seems like it would be best to do it before parking to me..Opinions appreciated...
Change the oil before storage. "Immediately" is not a concern, but you can do that if you DIY. Use gasoline stabilizer and fill the tank as full as you can just prior to storage. If you can, spray some fogging oil in through the plug holes. I would also pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the fogged engine over to distribute the oil. Plug all of the orifices (exhaust pipes, air inakes) with steel wool in ziploc bags to keep rodents out. Run the tire pressures up to 50psi to help prevent flat spots. Chock the wheels and don't leave a manual in gear or set the parking brake (if possible and secure in your storage location) as they can stick. Consider removing the batteries and leaving them on a trickle tender, or at least disconnect them so alarm systems etc... don't run them down.
Don't start them unless you're prepared to run them for 20-30 minutes on the road (not idling in the driveway) to circulate and dry all lubricants. Do not start them every month to idle for 15 minutes. You're doing more harm than good.
Charge your batteries with an AC charger (removed from the car and inside your dwelling if need be - careful of hydrogen) Remove the bags with steel wool. When I would retrieve mine I would puff more fogging oil and run on the starter without the fuel pump fuse again to lube the cylinder well. I could usually observe oil pressure building on the gauge too. Torque the plugs. Set the tire pressure. Get an idea that none of the brakes are stuck. Set parking brake, unchock, replace all fuses. Start them up. Observe that everything stabilizes. GO FOR A 30 MINUTE DRIVE - get everything up to operating temperature and boil any water out of the oil.
That was more or less my storage routine for my Porsche in Toronto. There was more stuff, but it's not worth getting into.
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