P0420 code after Protect and Restore

That is after cleaning. I was wondering about the value being on the high side using rule of thumb
No, that is what it should be reading at idle, while working properly. Cleaning will not change the value, unless it is dirty
Does the upstream sensor compensate for this with fuel trim or does it end up running too rich?
The upstream has the final say in fuel trim, so it does compensate for it, but late in the game. It is the "correcter".
My math gives me 3 grams / second which is quite high
agreed, unless he is not at idle or there is a vacuum leak
 
I will get some more data soon, but here is the freeze frame when the code tripped. Sounds like I need to find out if the car is running rich if MAF is reporting high. Car is mainly driven by my wife. Short trips, mostly stop and go.

FreezeFrame.jpg
 
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The freeze frames show good LTFT, and the 11 g/s MAF at 1600 RPM seems reasonable. You might have a small vacuum leak which only shows up at idle - something to look into but likely not your problem here.

If it comes back my next move would be the change the rear 02 sensor. Stay with a good brand - like Denso Bosch or NTK.
 
The freeze frames show good LTFT, and the 11 g/s MAF at 1600 RPM seems reasonable. You might have a small vacuum leak which only shows up at idle - something to look into but likely not your problem here.

If it comes back my next move would be the change the rear 02 sensor. Stay with a good brand - like Denso Bosch or NTK.
Really helpful information. To recap. This is the 2.4 i4. I used Protect & Clean and got my first CEL with the car about a week later, so I treated with Cataclean before a planned highway trip. Then I cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body/plate with CRC. Replaced Upstream and downstream sensors with Denso. Erased codes and am hoping they don't come back. I will now check for vacuum leak and recheck long term fuel trim at idle and at steady throttle. THANKS!
 
It’s possible that your aft oxygen sensor is getting fouled by “THC” in the exhaust. Install a couple of these (Dorman 42009) on your aft oxygen sensor and your “Mary Jane” code could disappear.

IMG_1395.jpeg
 
Cat codes are annoying buggers because they show up if:
The engine runs rough
The engine runs rich/stays cold
Any of the 02 sensors are tired (tired sensors can also cause the engine to run rich)
There's an exhaust leak
There's a connector with too much resistance
Your car is possessed with a demon or other entity
It's cold out and you drive slow
The cat is actually failed
You coast for too long allowing the cat to cool off
Honda used unreasonably tight parameters so any disturbance causes a code
 
I don't see how anything you pour into the gas tank can do anything for post exhaust manifold? Special fumes?

I'd guess weak O2 but you didn't show any voltage values. It's helpful to see the highs and lows values and the frequency in which they cycle. The post ac at one should normally not cycle much with constant throttle. Closed throttle it should drop out but bad cat and it will be eerily similar to the cycle of the primary O2 sensor.
 
The 2.4 was the only engine choice for the wagon. A lot of opinions pro and con about using a thicker oil to combat consumption. I have also been reluctant to try an engine flush out of concern for the seals. I have zero leaks and colored concrete pavers where I park.
Use the Gumout Multitune, 1 Oz per qt, drive it for 20 minutes, let it get up to temperature and use the rest in the fuel tank.
 
Cat codes are annoying buggers because they show up if:
The engine runs rough
The engine runs rich/stays cold
Any of the 02 sensors are tired (tired sensors can also cause the engine to run rich)
There's an exhaust leak
There's a connector with too much resistance
Your car is possessed with a demon or other entity
It's cold out and you drive slow
The cat is actually failed
You coast for too long allowing the cat to cool off
Honda used unreasonably tight parameters so any disturbance causes a code
New information: Should have checked but there is an accumulation of black soot on the muffler tips, not oily. After cleaning the MAF sensor, there's a slight improvement in readings. From 3 grams/sec down to 2.7 grams/sec at idle (2.4 liter engine). After replacing upstream air/fuel and downstream O2 sensors, long term fuel trim has gone from +0.8% to -8.5%. Short term seems to move around between 0% and -7%. What I take from this, is that the old upstream sensor should have been subtracting significant fuel, not adding it and this has been happening for a while. So "tired sensor" seems likely. The downstream sensor, was probably doing it's job by throwing the P0420 code. I suspect the rich condition is due to a partially clogged cat. I suppose I should get the back pressure measured. The engine is rated @ 200hp and seems to still accelerate the car decently from 80mph, so probably not melted, just coated. No pending or confirmed codes yet and permanent code has not disappeared, but not expected since cat readiness has not completed. I'm trying to add enough completed drive cycles to get something to register. I'm hoping the cat is seeing far less unburned fuel now and may recover? If I do need to replace it, should be better protected now.
 
A little bit of soot won't hurt the cat.

If you have the right combo of problems you can turn your cat into a giant blowtorch and melt it but that requires misfires and high speed
 
New information: Should have checked but there is an accumulation of black soot on the muffler tips, not oily. After cleaning the MAF sensor, there's a slight improvement in readings. From 3 grams/sec down to 2.7 grams/sec at idle (2.4 liter engine). After replacing upstream air/fuel and downstream O2 sensors, long term fuel trim has gone from +0.8% to -8.5%. Short term seems to move around between 0% and -7%. What I take from this, is that the old upstream sensor should have been subtracting significant fuel, not adding it and this has been happening for a while. So "tired sensor" seems likely. The downstream sensor, was probably doing it's job by throwing the P0420 code. I suspect the rich condition is due to a partially clogged cat. I suppose I should get the back pressure measured. The engine is rated @ 200hp and seems to still accelerate the car decently from 80mph, so probably not melted, just coated. No pending or confirmed codes yet and permanent code has not disappeared, but not expected since cat readiness has not completed. I'm trying to add enough completed drive cycles to get something to register. I'm hoping the cat is seeing far less unburned fuel now and may recover? If I do need to replace it, should be better protected now.

8.5% is not a horrible long term trim.
 
Did you ever look at your live date for the downstream o2 sensor? Was it steady or switching fast? It should be slow, if fast it should be replaced. Your p0420 is caused by burning not a new oil change. Put the R&P back in after a piston soak
 
Continue with Valvoline. It was doing its job cleaning out your engine, and the Cat was likely about to throw a code anyway due to as you stated, 125k of buildup.

As for the Cat situation, you can:

-Use an emissions system cleaner specifically for old/dirty Cats
-get a new cat
-remove the cat and soak it in hot soapy water for at least 24 hours. Let air dry and reinstall. This has been known to help clean and get more life (sometimes many thousands of miles) out of an old cat
 
8.5% is not a horrible long term trim.
Agreed. Seems to me the change from +0.8% to -8.5% means I'm running less unburned fuel into the converter now with the new sensors and everything may be good enough to avoid P0420 returning. Over the 13 years I've owned the car, I've done the following: Shortened OCI, no change in consumption. Replaced PCV valve, no change. Switched to Top Tier gas while adding Techron every few months. This reduced consumption. Switched to high mileage oil. Consumption of 1qt every 3k miles has been going on for years now. In 35 years, this is the only car I've owned that has burned any oil. Then I tried Restore & Protect and probably over-reacted when the engine threw a code and the oil looked "dark". Used Cataclean once after the code came up. Cleaned MAF and replaced upstream and downstream sensors with new correct Denso parts. I'm considering adding more Cataclean at intervals and switching to 0w30 oil and seeing what happens to oil consumption and long term fuel trim over the summer. My PA emissions inspection isn't due until February. Could go with Restore & Protect again. Mobil 1 ESP oil claims to be friendly to cat and sensors if burned. Any opinions?
 
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Continue with Valvoline. It was doing its job cleaning out your engine, and the Cat was likely about to throw a code anyway due to as you stated, 125k of buildup.

As for the Cat situation, you can:

-Use an emissions system cleaner specifically for old/dirty Cats
-get a new cat
-remove the cat and soak it in hot soapy water for at least 24 hours. Let air dry and reinstall. This has been known to help clean and get more life (sometimes many thousands of miles) out of an old cat
Car has 125k miles. Oil burning started sometime around 60k miles. Rich fuel mixture is probably a recent development and even more responsible for the code.
 
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Serious, Honda will fix a ring problem this many years from 2011? That is a great warranty.
Acura sent the letter in 2015, extending the warranty to 8yrs / 125k miles specifically for piston and ring replacement due to excessive oil consumption. My oil consumption never came close to what they consider excessive and time ran out in 2019.
 
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