Ow-20 for Jag/LR 5.0 SC

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Jun 25, 2022
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Hey guys. I have a 2015 Range Rover supercharged 5.0 V8. I am not sure if this has been brought up and I am new here but I’d really like some insight. Full disclosure, I am no oil genius or guru. The factory fill for these engines is the Castrol 0-20 but I have been using the liqui moly special Tec LR 0-20 for quite some time. All seems fine but I guess I am just wondering if I would do any harm by using a different oil in a weight like 5-30. Do I have any options or should I just continue on?

I have seen this discussed in regards to the jaguar f type and mileage not being a concern because the owners will probably get rid of them before they reach high mileage. That is not the case with me. I buy one and I drive it forever. My 15 has 80k miles and my older Range Rover has 240k miles. Longevity is the most important thing to me and that is my primary concern. Please let me know what you think! Thanks for the help!
 
I was more referring to bumping up specifically in the engine I have.

Look at that. It only took until the third post for a Toyota guy to show up and throw a dig. Lol. I didn’t want a land cruiser or a 4 runner or I would have bought one. I’ve owned both of my rovers from new and one has a quarter million miles. Proper maintenance is key with any vehicle but I am sure you knew that.

Thanks for the replies.
 
A slightly thicker grade certainly isn't going to hurt, but honestly it's unlikey to make anything "better" either, in terms of wear control. Once the oil film is "thick enough", making it "thicker" does not reduce wear. (referred to as MOFT; minimum oil film thickness).

You have 80k miles on one Rover and 240k on another, right?
So ...What's worked for you so far? Why change now?
Stick with what you've been doing.
 
A slightly thicker grade certainly isn't going to hurt, but honestly it's unlikey to make anything "better" either, in terms of wear control. Once the oil film is "thick enough", making it "thicker" does not reduce wear. (referred to as MOFT; minimum oil film thickness).

You have 80k miles on one Rover and 240k on another, right?
So ...What's worked for you so far? Why change now?
Stick with what you've been doing.
Very true. Yeah nothing is wrong at the moment but I guess I just thought 20 is super thin. You’re right though, I guess no reason to change anything right now.

The one with 240k, I use 5-40 in. If it isn’t broke, don’t fix it I guess. Thanks!
 
Depends on where he lives... if in Alaska, Antartica, Artic, Nordic, or Canada, I'd stick with the 0w20.

If in the battery killing heat range, or maybe the yellow, I'd definitely use a current spec full synthetic 5w30 which is a simple 1 grade step up. Battery chart is pretty good for oil grades. I won't recommend a Eskimo the same oil I recommend a Redneck for the same engine.

So, if you don't want sarcasm and snickering, my earlier post already gave you a passive question. Where the do you live? Your climate assists in determining an effective oil grade. And, over maintaining the oil does nothing for the rest of the vehicle. Cut the ATF, coolant, diffs, xfer case, BF... other fluids down to a time/mileage interval.

I'm in the red belt, when an engine with known issues. I am use a 5w40 full synthetic instead of the recommended 5w20 conventional. My oil change interval is 3000-4000 miles instead of the recommended 7500 miles. My transmission fluid is drain/refilled yearly(since its about 1/3 partial). My brakes are bled every 2-3 years(complements a few automakers that actually include BF intervals). My radiator is drain/refilled every 2 years(about 1/2 capacity in radiator) and not shenanigan flushed at 10 years/100-120k. On the MT equipped vehicle, the MTF is changed every 3 years(30k). On my 4wd, the front diffs and transfer case is also every 30 years/30k miles. All vehicles with a gearbox got a 10k gearbox break-in change prior to going 3/30. All vehicles had a filter change(usually within 1st month of ownership).

If there is oil consumption, top off with with a grade higher than filled with at the OCI.

battery life.jpg
 
I suspect JLR's oil recommendation of 0W-20 weight has a lot to do with squeezing an extra 0.25 MPG out of those thirsty supercharged V8's.
You are way out of warranty so moving up to 5W-30 won't affect warranty coverage. However I would stick with the 0W-20.

Known issues with that engine, at least before an engineering change called for a better material, was the plastic coolant pipes for the supercharger can crack as they age and leak coolant. It's probably a good idea to have them replaced with the current parts before you have a catastrophic failure. It won't be an inexpensive fix but a lot better than a new engine.

The Liqui-Moly oil is supposed to be good stuff. The current specification (as of 2018) from JLR is for Castrol Edge Professional EC5 Spec. STJLR.03.5006. That is a special formula that Castrol makes exclusively for JLR and the only place I have ever been able to find it was at a dealer. It ran $12.95 a quart last time I bought it, but that was prior to the current price of oil.

I live in the Southern California mountains and don't see too many days below freezing but summer temperatures are frequently in the 90's. JLR's current suggested oil change intervals for that engine (I have a 2021 Jaguar F Type R) are 16,000 miles. No way will I run the oil that long. I either change it myself at 5000 miles or take advantage of the free oil changes once a year while still under warranty.

I figure that the Castrol Edge Professional EC5 oil is about the same price as other high performance oils like Redline, Amsoil or Royal Purple so it's not a big deal to spend $150 for an oil & filter change if I do it myself. Unfortunately these cars are not Toyota Corollas that can use Mobil 1 from Walmart and a Fram Ultra filter that costs under $50 for the materials and can go 10,000 miles between changes.
 
I figure that the Castrol Edge Professional EC5 oil is about the same price as other high performance oils like Redline, Amsoil or Royal Purple so it's not a big deal to spend $150 for an oil & filter change if I do it myself. Unfortunately these cars are not Toyota Corollas that can use Mobil 1 from Walmart and a Fram Ultra filter that costs under $50 for the materials and can go 10,000 miles between changes.
That's just silly. There are several oils on the shelf at Walmart with Porsche A40 or Mercedes Benz 229.5 approval that are more than equal to Amsoil or Royal Purple (at half the price) and have demonstrated real-world performance unlike Red Line. If the OP would rather use a lower-SAPS oil then Walmart has several for purchase online that are also equal in performance.
 
There are probably 100 or more threads on here about bumping up a grade from what is recommended. Searching around a bit might be a good idea.

No engine is damaged by a higher HT/HS. Oils with a lower HT/HS might cause damage however. Higher HT/HS prevents wear, not causes it.
So if I'm using a 5w30 with 3.1 hths, changing to say a 3.4 hths will, all else being equal, definitely improve protection and wear numbers? Thanks.
 
The correlation chart between wear and HT/HS has been posted here many times. That’s physics.

“Wear numbers” as in those obtained through a $30 spectrographic analysis from uncontrolled engine operation are not indicative of much at all.
 
The correlation chart between wear and HT/HS has been posted here many times. That’s physics.

“Wear numbers” as in those obtained through a $30 spectrographic analysis from uncontrolled engine operation are not indicative of much at all.
Of course, but what about like I said "all things being equal" long term numbers?
 
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