Ow-20 for Jag/LR 5.0 SC

Of course, but what about like I said "all things being equal" long term numbers?
I’m not really sure what you’re asking or what point you’re ultimately trying to make. What I said was that no engine is damaged by an oil with a higher HT/HS and that this (the MOFT) is what protects engines from wear and does not cause it.
 
We can lump whatever we want when the threadstarter provides no information and disappears.

And, I could care less where a majority of Canadians live. Its up to person living his/her area to have a clue concerning their weather conditions when picking a grade. Could also add in variables like average/peak oil temps and oil PSI for their driving/commute conditions too.

A question with no pertinent info will get whatever answer and comment, whether he likes them or not.
 
I’m not really sure what you’re asking or what point you’re ultimately trying to make. What I said was that no engine is damaged by an oil with a higher HT/HS and that this (the MOFT) is what protects engines from wear and does not cause it.
In other words, if you could replicate conditions long term for both, would it definitely show less wear using 3.4 vs 3.1 ? Or like Mr. Newton says if it's thick enough then making it thicker won't really help.
 
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IIRC it was more than that, probably because they tack shipping on to that $30. I was really close to sending in an M1 FS 0W-40 + 21oz. Lubegard Bio-Tech after a 6000-mile run in my HEMI. Sidenote, I no longer use Lubegard for anything. As I was filling out the Blackstone form and getting ready to write the check, I was thinking "what a colossal waste of money." I still have the sample in the bottle on a shelf in my garage. That was a couple of years ago, lol.

In the meantime, I had the opportunity to learn what oil analysis is good for, how to sample a baseline, and then how to consistently sample to build a trend so I can determine if anything is out of the ordinary and the quality of the lubricant. And I still don't do it, and probably won't be doing it for the foreseeable future, because I don't think I have a need for it.
 
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IIRC it was more than that, probably because they tack shipping on to that $30. I was really close to sending in an M1 FS 0W-40 + 21oz. Lubegard Bio-Tech after a 6000-mile run in my HEMI. As I was filling out the Blackstone form and getting ready to write the check, I was thinking "what a colossal waste of money." I still have the sample in the bottle on a shelf in my garage. That was a couple of years ago, lol.

In the meantime, I had the opportunity to learn what oil analysis is good for, how to sample a baseline, and then how to consistently sample to build a trend so I can determine if anything is out of the ordinary and the quality of the lubricant. And I still don't do it, and probably won't be doing it for the foreseeable future, because I don't think I have a need for it.
I do the odd UOA just to check for fuel with the SRT's, haven't done one on the RAM, but may eventually just for a baseline. Clearly, since I'm interested in fuel, Blackstone isn't an option. I ordered a couple OAI kits, which will provide the information I want via GC.

I used to use Toromont CAT, which was more reasonably priced, but they stopped offering GC fuel unfortunately.
 
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IIRC it was more than that, probably because they tack shipping on to that $30. I was really close to sending in an M1 FS 0W-40 + 21oz. Lubegard Bio-Tech after a 6000-mile run in my HEMI. Sidenote, I no longer use Lubegard for anything. As I was filling out the Blackstone form and getting ready to write the check, I was thinking "what a colossal waste of money." I still have the sample in the bottle on a shelf in my garage. That was a couple of years ago, lol.

In the meantime, I had the opportunity to learn what oil analysis is good for, how to sample a baseline, and then how to consistently sample to build a trend so I can determine if anything is out of the ordinary and the quality of the lubricant. And I still don't do it, and probably won't be doing it for the foreseeable future, because I don't think I have a need for it.
I rarely do it either. If I were to look back it’s the times when I suspected coolant or fuel contamination or I was attempting to see if there was a viscosity deviation due to mechanical shear. But then again that’s not the spectrographic portion of the analysis.
 
All seems fine but I guess I am just wondering if I would do any harm by using a different oil in a weight like 5-30. Do I have any options or should I just continue on?

Bumping up a KV100 grade gives better HTHS viscosity and MOFT headroom for some added wear protection. Any engine specifying a xW-20 can run a xW-30 without any worries.
 
In other words, if you could replicate conditions long term for both, would it definitely show less wear using 3.4 vs 3.1 ?
From the relative wear vs HTHS info sources posted here many times, when the HTHS gets above 3.0 the wear difference falls off much less as the HTHS increases than the difference in relative wear between 2.3 to 3.0. Most xW-20 typically has HTHS viscosity of around 2.6 to 2.7 cP.

If a vehicle is used in conditions where the oil temperature in the bearings is getting way over above 150C, then the oil dynamic viscosity (cP) will be even lower than its advertised 150C HTHS viscosity. That's why Ford, GM, etc spec a much thicker oil for track use, like xW-40 or xW-50 which has a HTHS quite a bit over 3.0 cP.

Using xW-20 for every day benign driving conditions where oil temps are 200-220F and normal loads (no heavy towing, sustained high speeds, etc) the xW-20 would probably be "adequate" most of the time, but going up a grade will give some added protection headroom on top of mostly "adequate".
 
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A slightly thicker grade certainly isn't going to hurt, but honestly it's unlikey to make anything "better" either, in terms of wear control. Once the oil film is "thick enough", making it "thicker" does not reduce wear. (referred to as MOFT; minimum oil film thickness).

You have 80k miles on one Rover and 240k on another, right?
So ...What's worked for you so far? Why change now?
Stick with what you've been doing.
And the vehicle is obviously equipped with an oil cooler, so...
 
I suspect JLR's oil recommendation of 0W-20 weight has a lot to do with squeezing an extra 0.25 MPG out of those thirsty supercharged V8's.
You are way out of warranty so moving up to 5W-30 won't affect warranty coverage. However I would stick with the 0W-20.

....
It varies from 0.3-to-0.5 actually, and it's not such a small thing when people cry about $6 a gallon gas, is it? And of course it's far more noticeable in colder months...
 
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