Ow-20 for Jag/LR 5.0 SC

[Jackson_Slugger]

So...Not quite as cold as Vermont, New Hampshire, or Maine?

Well no, those states temps are somewhat regulated by the Atlantic. I think more like Montana, Minnesota, and North Dakota. Living on the border, it gets somewhat cold here but Lake Erie regulates things as we seem to never get below -10F(-23C) or above 99F(37C)....

 

[Jackson_Slugger]

From the relative wear vs HTHS info sources posted here many times, when the HTHS gets above 3.0 the wear difference falls off much less as the HTHS increases than the difference in relative wear between 2.3 to 3.0. Most xW-20 typically has HTHS viscosity of around 2.6 to 2.7 cP.

If a vehicle is used in conditions where the oil temperature in the bearings is getting way over above 150C, then the oil dynamic viscosity (cP) will be even lower than its advertised 150C HTHS viscosity. That's why Ford, GM, etc spec a much thicker oil for track use, like xW-40 or xW-50 which has a HTHS quite a bit over 3.0 cP.

Using xW-20 for every day benign driving conditions where oil temps are 200-220F and normal loads (no heavy towing, sustained high speeds, etc) the xW-20 would probably be "adequate" most of the time, but going up a grade will give some added protection headroom on top of mostly "adequate".

There's a lot of factors involved and engine temps vary between types and OEM, but a 0W-20 is quite likely to run cooler in many sumps at OT. I'm guessing 0W-20 might not even generate a 220F oil temp but it's hard to tell as most cars are not equipped with digital oil temp readouts. And if a 0W-20 is spec'd then obviously an oil cooler is present. No?

 

[thewarhammer]

Wow. Looks like I missed quite a bit of fun. I should have provided more info but will do my best.

As for maintenance, I just has the supercharger off and replaced all the cooling maintenance items/water pump/thermo etc so for those that suggested, it is done. I also did the transmission, transfer case and differentials. That is what led me to make this post and ask the question for those who know oil better than me. I have decided to keep the truck as opposed to trade it in and get another one.

So what really led me here was when I pulled the oil out with the mityvac, it was like water. It was very thin and this was the liqui moly special tec 0-20. The engine runs very quiet but I started to think as time goes on, it may get noisy from worn lifters, timing chains etc and wanted to find a way to prevent it the best I could. There is also some concern with the piston oil squirters becoming clogged but that is usually from sludge buildup in extended intervals which is not the case for me. I change every 5k. Like I said, mpg is not my concern like it was for JLR. I am not sure who the hell would buy a 510hp V8 SUV and have fuel efficiency even be on the radar. The main reason for wanting to go up a grade is to ensure the engine stays as quiet as it is.

As for climate, I am in New York City but will be taking the truck cross country in September. As for the one with 240k, someone mentioned I probably went up a grade and that is true. I stuck with castrol where that truck calls for 5-30 and I went to 5-40. I didn’t put much though into and it seemed to be fine. I came here to ask about the newer one to see if anyone has some insight to an entry level oil enthusiast. The concepts of fluids do not escape me (BS in chemical engineering) but the different classifications can certainly be daunting. Hope this climate info and a little more info about the truck helps.

Thanks everyone for the replies. I appreciate it.

 

[DwightFrye]

For whatever it is worth, here is a link to a Blackstone UOA that I had done back on January when I drained the factory fill at 2754 miles.
I was surprised at the low moly amount and the high titanium amount in the analysis. There are some good comments from BITOG members in the thread.

Castrol Edge Professional EC5 0W-20 (Factory Fill) 2754 Miles 2021 Jaguar F Type R

I dumped the factory fill oil and changed the filter at 2754 miles on my 2021 Jaguar F Type R and sent the sample to Blackstone Labs. The engine is the 5.0 Liter Supercharged V8. Note that Jaguar/Land Rover requires the specially formulated Castrol Edge Professional EC5, specification...

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[ZeeOSix]

As for the one with 240k, someone mentioned I probably went up a grade and that is true. I stuck with castrol where that truck calls for 5-30 and I went to 5-40. I didn’t put much though into and it seemed to be fine.

I'd be bumping a xW-20 to xW-30 more readily than bumping a xW-30 to a xW-40. Both grade bump ups can't hurt and gives more film thickness between moving parts and added wear protection headroom.

 

[Fasternet]

How do you know it will always be "thick enough" in every driving condition over the entire OCI? Ans: You don't. Nothing wrong with MOFT headroom, except maybe a hair less fuel mileage.

So going from a 5w30 to a xx-50 wouldn't be excessive headroom? I would think that would be a little much.

 

[Fasternet]

Well no, those states temps are somewhat regulated by the Atlantic. I think more like Montana, Minnesota, and North Dakota. Living on the border, it gets somewhat cold here but Lake Erie regulates things as we seem to never get below -10F(-23C) or above 99F(37C)....

Isn't northern Wisconsin crazy cold?

 

[ZeeOSix]

So going from a 5w30 to a xx-50 wouldn't be excessive headroom? I would think that would be a little much.

Depends what you're doing with the vehicle. Ford specs 5W-50 on their Boss 302 and GT500, even for street driving. They must be expecting some of those owners to hit the race track, or really drive hard on the streets. If someone with a car that speced 5W-30 on the oil cap was taking it to the track and running it really hard, a xW-50 maybe what's specified for track use, or a better choice than xW-40 if they had to choose themself and the track use was in 100 deg F heat.

Even if a car specs xW-20, a xW-50 could be used even on the streets with normal benign driving. Is that "excessive"? ... yeah probably, but it's only going to hurt fuel economy. Is going from xW-16 to 20, or xW-20 to 30, or xW-30 to 40 excessive? I'd say it's not. Going up one grade from what's specified on the oil cap isn't exessive.

 

[Fasternet]

Thank you Mr.Zee. Since you bring it up, I wasn't necessarily going to the extremes of DD straight to track use. Rather more along the lines of DD to maybe heavy street use where a 50 grade may be too thick. Does that make sense? I'm here to learn.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Thank you Mr.Zee. Since you bring it up, I wasn't necessarily going to the extremes of DD straight to track use. Rather more along the lines of DD to maybe heavy street use where a 50 grade may be too thick. Does that make sense? I'm here to learn.

In that case I'd just bump up a grade if you're using it pretty hard sometines. That way, you have the added film protection if/when you need it. That's what headroom is about IMO.

If it already specs a xW-30 then I'd just stay with that. If you want a bit more HTHS in a 30 you could look for a xW-30 with higher HTHS, like the Euro spec oils.