Oversized filter for weekend warrior truck

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Hi everyone, so I am trying to decide between 3 filters that I have for my 97 toyota T100 truck with the 3.4 v6 (5vz fe)

I have:
-OEM stock filter
-OEM +1 size
-Bosch D+ stock size (3330)
-Bosch D+ 1 size up (3422)
-Bosch D+ super size (3500)

My goal:
- is to reduce start up wear since I only start the truck maybe once a week at the moment
- Increase Oil capacity because it just seems like a good idea.

Thoughts? I also have a Sienna that runs same size filter so whatever is not used on the truck goes onto there for the wife
 
A bigger filter can increase startup wear Bosch D+ filters are garbage. A toyota filter is better and cheaper.
 
How come these filters are garbage? While I have not opened one up the build quality seems fantastic. But I really don't know much else.
 
They're a bit expensive considering what you get, but I'd say their far from garbage. I'd use one worry free.

I am also not seeing an increase in startup wear. It'll take slightly longer to fill the filter after an oil change.. that's about it.
 
Keep in mind that this is only my opinion!
My experience(sometimes) with oversizing oil filters is, COLD Startup Rattle! All too often with several vehicles when I have tried to oversize my oil filter, startup rattle is what has happened...some worst than other and not every single startup. Often only on a cold start when the engine was shut down for long periods of time. Repeated restarts were typically fine!

My thinking is that, this is ONLY 1 reason besides cost & to reduce part #s, that MFG's have gone to smaller oil filters. I used to think that oversizing was a benefit as is afforded me that little extra, e.g., 1/2 qt of oil which is probably meaningless.

Because I drive cars w/4 cyl engines, their oil change capacity w/filter is often 4.5 qts and I wanted that little bit extra, thinking that oversizing was a benefit.

And oversizing my in fact be a benefit in some/many applications, IDK!
 
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Getting the Bosch D+ filters on clearance from Walmart? I'd use them worry free too since they are priced at $1.25, $2.50 and $3.00 in my area.
 
Beyond BITOG chest thumpin' braggin' rights there's no good reason to go with an oversize filter. Use whatever makes you happy and don't waste your time worrying about it.
 
Toyota filters have more element in the can than most, maybe all. Less time to fill the smaller can if your filter points base down, and still have more media inside than most if not all competitors. No one has shown a factory defect in a Toyota filter yet. The no end cap design lets the oil flow directly to the pleats, not that it matters much, but it still does not have to go around an end cap in a narrow space. I know a lady here who sold her Prius to her friend with 189k on it. Always serviced at Toyota. Runs as new from day one to present.
 
if the filter sits at the bottom of the engine then its size should not really make any difference compared to filters that sit at the top or side of engine?
 
I already own all the filters I have listed. The truck has 240k Miles on it and I intend to own it for 20 more years, so I am just trying to do what is best for it.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The reason toyota went to a smaller filter 20+ years ago was to lessen start up wear. The small filter fills faster than the ph8a sized one they were using.


OK enough already. First of all, how is the filter positioned? If it is mounted up-right, how is is it going to empty? If it's mounted on the side of the block, AND the anti-drain-back valve is working right, how is it going to empty?

Cheap filters with bad ADBV often have start-up noise because they let the galleries slowly drain down. Good filters with known good ADBV seldom have this issue. Napa Gold/WIX fit nicely in this camp. Very quiet on start-up.

Secondly, this may be a function of synthetic oils. I've had start-up noises with Mobil 1 in a number of engines. Put an HDEO conventional oil in same engine, dead silent. Put a syn blend in same engine - dead silent.

Since I do not change my filters at the same time as I do the oil (to retain some residual AW properties from the existing oil). I can always tell what the oil is doing vs the filter. You have to separate the effects of filter and oil on start-up noises...

As far as oversizing, once the filter is full and IF the ADBV is working correctly, there is little difference in start-up flow. Actually, there may be better flow with the oversized filter and cold oil because the larger media area will pass cool thick oil (all oils are thick cold compared to op temp) more easily and not have to open the internal by-pass valve.

There are various schemes for oversizing like using hydraulic filters w/o internal by-passes for race engines, etc. Don't apply here. In this case you are likely getting better cold flow and more volume in the whole system. In addition, you can run the filter longer before plugging. So say 12,000 miles and oil changes at 6,000.

There is no downside to oversizing except cost and fitment. Been doing this for 40+ years and never had it lead to any of the points mentioned so far. Where does this stuff come from ...
 
Originally Posted By: KingCake
...Bosch D+ filters are garbage.


You don't have any evidence of this, I guarantee it.


Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Beyond BITOG chest thumpin' braggin' rights there's no good reason to go with an oversize filter. Use whatever makes you happy and don't waste your time worrying about it.


Truth.
Look at all the Chevy and Ford V8's running little filters now-a-days
 
1. Keep stock Toyota filter and owner's manual maintence schedule.
2. install an oil primer pump.
3. Install ignition switch
4. Install Oil pressure gauge (If 100 psi not present)
5. With ignition off, spin engine until oil pressure reaches standard pressure, flip to RUN.
6. All set for next 500,000 miles.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The reason toyota went to a smaller filter 20+ years ago was to lessen start up wear. The small filter fills faster than the ph8a sized one they were using.


OK enough already. First of all, how is the filter positioned? If it is mounted up-right, how is is it going to empty? If it's mounted on the side of the block, AND the anti-drain-back valve is working right, how is it going to empty?

Cheap filters with bad ADBV often have start-up noise because they let the galleries slowly drain down. Good filters with known good ADBV seldom have this issue. Napa Gold/WIX fit nicely in this camp. Very quiet on start-up.

Secondly, this may be a function of synthetic oils. I've had start-up noises with Mobil 1 in a number of engines. Put an HDEO conventional oil in same engine, dead silent. Put a syn blend in same engine - dead silent.

Since I do not change my filters at the same time as I do the oil (to retain some residual AW properties from the existing oil). I can always tell what the oil is doing vs the filter. You have to separate the effects of filter and oil on start-up noises...

As far as oversizing, once the filter is full and IF the ADBV is working correctly, there is little difference in start-up flow. Actually, there may be better flow with the oversized filter and cold oil because the larger media area will pass cool thick oil (all oils are thick cold compared to op temp) more easily and not have to open the internal by-pass valve.

There are various schemes for oversizing like using hydraulic filters w/o internal by-passes for race engines, etc. Don't apply here. In this case you are likely getting better cold flow and more volume in the whole system. In addition, you can run the filter longer before plugging. So say 12,000 miles and oil changes at 6,000.

There is no downside to oversizing except cost and fitment. Been doing this for 40+ years and never had it lead to any of the points mentioned so far. Where does this stuff come from ...


Thank you for the explanation. The oil fiter is on the side of the block with a angle down so I would assume there will be a decent amount of oil still in the filter after turning the engine off.

Currently I have Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0w40 in the truck and plan to actually run HDEO Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40 after this has 5k miles or so. I do not plan to extend the oil filter life past 5-7.5k even though it has not been used fully yet. I own about 15 filters not used yet for this engine.

I plan to just run OEM filters once I begin to daily drive the truck again but while it is only being used once a week I wanted to use the best filter I have just so it doesn't hurt the engine (as much).
 
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The oil fiter is on the side of the block with a angle down so I would assume there will be a decent amount of oil still in the filter after turning the engine off.


Any fault with the ADBV will result in drain-back while it sits idle and then you will have a dry-start briefly. The down angle on this engine (I thought it was the later block at first), gives you protection for this.

Living in Seattle, you might also consider a 10w30 oil (I believe that is the recommended grade). It will be more oil and less VII than a 0w-xx or 5w-xx. Unless you are travelling up into Interior BC or the Idaho panhandle in the winter (less than 10F starts routinely), you will not see a cold start difference.
 
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Originally Posted By: Oro_O


Quote:
The oil fiter is on the side of the block with a angle down so I would assume there will be a decent amount of oil still in the filter after turning the engine off.


Any fault with the ADBV will result in drain-back while it sits idle and then you will have a dry-start briefly. The down angle on this engine (I thought it was the later block at first), gives you protection for this.

Living in Seattle, you might also consider a 10w30 oil (I believe that is the recommended grade). It will be more oil and less VII than a 0w-xx or 5w-xx. Unless you are travelling up into Interior BC or the Idaho panhandle in the winter (less than 10F starts routinely), you will not see a cold start difference.


I am actually in Redmond too, howdy.

I was intending to start using a higher grade for the truck after exhasting my supply of 5w40 Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck I got for 15$ a gallon. Have about 8 of them so it might take a while. Might be moving out to Minnesota here in about a year so If that is the case the 5w might not even be good enough.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The reason toyota went to a smaller filter 20+ years ago was to lessen start up wear. The small filter fills faster than the ph8a sized one they were using.


They probably went smaller so they could have a one size fits all filter.
 
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