I been draining with distilled water.
Overheating in long drive
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When you park your car after a long drive, water will sit in the engine block and absorb heat from the metal. That's why your temperature gauge will always spike after you shut the engine down, and will quickly drop when you re-start the engine after it's had a chance to cool slightly. However, if your water pump is dead, then water won't circulate and the temperature needle won't drop as quickly when you re-start the car. So, run your car until it gets up to temperature or starts to overheat, and then park it. Turn the ignition key to the "on" position, and watch the needle. You'll probably see it rapidly rise; if not, then this alone could indicate water pump failure. Re-check the temperature after a couple of minutes, when the temperature needle just starts to fall. Start the engine; if the needle rises and the cooling fans are on, then you've got either a bad water pump or a clogged radiator. A needle that doesn't fall quickly or remains relatively stationary could indicate the same things.
by Richard Rowe, Demand Media
by Richard Rowe, Demand Media
Originally Posted By: Warstud
When you park your car after a long drive, water will sit in the engine block and absorb heat from the metal. That's why your temperature gauge will always spike after you shut the engine down, and will quickly drop when you re-start the engine after it's had a chance to cool slightly. However, if your water pump is dead, then water won't circulate and the temperature needle won't drop as quickly when you re-start the car. So, run your car until it gets up to temperature or starts to overheat, and then park it. Turn the ignition key to the "on" position, and watch the needle. You'll probably see it rapidly rise; if not, then this alone could indicate water pump failure. Re-check the temperature after a couple of minutes, when the temperature needle just starts to fall. Start the engine; if the needle rises and the cooling fans are on, then you've got either a bad water pump or a clogged radiator. A needle that doesn't fall quickly or remains relatively stationary could indicate the same things.
by Richard Rowe, Demand Media
Thank for giving me better explanation. After car overheat in long drive then after I restart the car the temperature is back to normal temperature. Later, it will overheat after 10 minutes. I think I have problem with the radiator. How can I get rid of brown sludge inside the radiator?
When you park your car after a long drive, water will sit in the engine block and absorb heat from the metal. That's why your temperature gauge will always spike after you shut the engine down, and will quickly drop when you re-start the engine after it's had a chance to cool slightly. However, if your water pump is dead, then water won't circulate and the temperature needle won't drop as quickly when you re-start the car. So, run your car until it gets up to temperature or starts to overheat, and then park it. Turn the ignition key to the "on" position, and watch the needle. You'll probably see it rapidly rise; if not, then this alone could indicate water pump failure. Re-check the temperature after a couple of minutes, when the temperature needle just starts to fall. Start the engine; if the needle rises and the cooling fans are on, then you've got either a bad water pump or a clogged radiator. A needle that doesn't fall quickly or remains relatively stationary could indicate the same things.
by Richard Rowe, Demand Media
Thank for giving me better explanation. After car overheat in long drive then after I restart the car the temperature is back to normal temperature. Later, it will overheat after 10 minutes. I think I have problem with the radiator. How can I get rid of brown sludge inside the radiator?
Egad man,
Brown sludge in radiator and you have to ask why it is overheating?
And for what it is worth, I recently replaced my old school mechanical dashboard gauge voltage limiter with a new solid state version, and after a hot restart, the temp needle no longer rises up near to the red before quickly lowering.
It now just slowly rises on a hot restart to normal temps, and the needles do not swing with battery voltage fluctuations or radio interference.
Brown sludge in radiator and you have to ask why it is overheating?
And for what it is worth, I recently replaced my old school mechanical dashboard gauge voltage limiter with a new solid state version, and after a hot restart, the temp needle no longer rises up near to the red before quickly lowering.
It now just slowly rises on a hot restart to normal temps, and the needles do not swing with battery voltage fluctuations or radio interference.
You CANNOT fix a radiator that is spewing gunk into the system.
Time for a $100 radiator and close the thread and call it a day!!
Time for a $100 radiator and close the thread and call it a day!!
Before you put anti-freeze or take the engine apart, buy a back flushing tee and closely follow the instructions to installing it. Back flush with a garden hose, not distilled water Back flush until the water runs clear. Cap the tee and take it for a drive.
MaximaGuy is correct. You can pick up a new radiator at advance auto cheap when using the online discount codes. Don't waste time trying to flush a radiator full of gunk. Make sure to flush the heater core when you replace the radiator though.
You wonder why there is gunk in the radiator and eventually into the cores. Simple, non-OEM coolant, they eat up the solder on the heater core and gunk up the radiator.
There is one thing you NEVER EVER monkey with and that is coolants, I learnt that lesson on my maxima. All that OTC coolants are not for Japanese vehicles.
There is one thing you NEVER EVER monkey with and that is coolants, I learnt that lesson on my maxima. All that OTC coolants are not for Japanese vehicles.
I know all off you want me to replace the parts and I don't mind doing that but it be nice if I find out what is wrong with it. Anyway let me tell you what I did today ;
I flush my b&m transmission cooler lines and I saw brown or chocolate antifreeze coming out from the hoses and I stop the water until I saw clean water coming out from the hoses. After that it started raining
. Tomorrow I'm going to flush the heater core hoses which is hard to get to and yes even on the end of the hoses.
I flush my b&m transmission cooler lines and I saw brown or chocolate antifreeze coming out from the hoses and I stop the water until I saw clean water coming out from the hoses. After that it started raining
. Tomorrow I'm going to flush the heater core hoses which is hard to get to and yes even on the end of the hoses.Which antifreeze should I buy Preston, Peak, or Super Tech? If it start to overheat again after this then I will have to dump the antifreeze again if I'm going to replace any parts of cooling system. Should I buy super tech antifreeze I just want to test it and see if it overheat again.
Fans don't come on while driving down the highway right?
Fans don't come on while driving down the highway right?
I forget to mention that my transmission cool by radiator fuild.
Wait a minute, I hope I am misunderstanding you, but you've got muddy coolant coming out of your external transmission cooler hoses?
And you flushed these ATF lines with water till it ran clear?
Your B&M transmission cooler should only have ATF running through it, not coolant, not water.
There is likely an ATF cooler inside the radiator tanks, but coolant and ATF should never mix. If they are mixing and have been doing so for a while, you've got a macker of a problem and hopefully you did not destroy your transmission.
I know my Some nissan Pathfinders had issues with ATF getting into the coolant and vis versa from faulty radiators. The internal transmission cooler was leaking into the coolant.
Check your ATF fluid. If it is muddy milky or anything but red/pink, start crying.
Perhaps a new radiator and flushing the transmission of any coolant will have you rolling properly again, but the transmission might be a goner if it has been injesting coolant, and you just flushed the ATF lines with water.
I really hope you did not flush your transmission cooler lines with water.
And you flushed these ATF lines with water till it ran clear?
Your B&M transmission cooler should only have ATF running through it, not coolant, not water.
There is likely an ATF cooler inside the radiator tanks, but coolant and ATF should never mix. If they are mixing and have been doing so for a while, you've got a macker of a problem and hopefully you did not destroy your transmission.
I know my Some nissan Pathfinders had issues with ATF getting into the coolant and vis versa from faulty radiators. The internal transmission cooler was leaking into the coolant.
Check your ATF fluid. If it is muddy milky or anything but red/pink, start crying.
Perhaps a new radiator and flushing the transmission of any coolant will have you rolling properly again, but the transmission might be a goner if it has been injesting coolant, and you just flushed the ATF lines with water.
I really hope you did not flush your transmission cooler lines with water.
That is right, ATF and coolant shouldn't mix. Nissan junk had that happen somehow and I never understood how, if you have a ONE piece copper pipe in the bottom of the radiator how can it get pinched but it does with Nissan junk radiators.
You need professional help at this point.
You need professional help at this point.
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Originally Posted By: Rohan
If it start to overheat again after this then I will have to dump the antifreeze again if I'm going to replace any parts of cooling system. Should I buy super tech antifreeze I just want to test it and see if it overheat again.
Why are you so quick to put the antifreeze in? It's summer time, you can safely run on straight water until the issue is resolved and then put in the correct mix of antifreeze.
If it start to overheat again after this then I will have to dump the antifreeze again if I'm going to replace any parts of cooling system. Should I buy super tech antifreeze I just want to test it and see if it overheat again.
Why are you so quick to put the antifreeze in? It's summer time, you can safely run on straight water until the issue is resolved and then put in the correct mix of antifreeze.
Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
That is right, ATF and coolant shouldn't mix. Nissan junk had that happen somehow and I never understood how, if you have a ONE piece copper pipe in the bottom of the radiator how can it get pinched but it does with Nissan junk radiators.
You need professional help at this point.
Higher pressure in the radiator and a THIN copper tube for the low pressure ATF. Result...Squish.
That is right, ATF and coolant shouldn't mix. Nissan junk had that happen somehow and I never understood how, if you have a ONE piece copper pipe in the bottom of the radiator how can it get pinched but it does with Nissan junk radiators.
You need professional help at this point.
Higher pressure in the radiator and a THIN copper tube for the low pressure ATF. Result...Squish.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
So now he has no transmission and no cooling system hence no engine either! I hope all of you are happy now.
Not try to sound like an ash but over 9+pages worth of postings on a rather straightforward subject is quite a scene, methinks.
It's just what you get out of BITOG these days.....
So now he has no transmission and no cooling system hence no engine either! I hope all of you are happy now.
Not try to sound like an ash but over 9+pages worth of postings on a rather straightforward subject is quite a scene, methinks.
It's just what you get out of BITOG these days.....
Sometimes I get feeling that either we are being trolled or there are lots of BITOGers who take perverse pleasure in bringing out the latent Gearhead from a felow BITOGer. Neither sounds too good for the long term health of this valued resource.
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Higher pressure in the radiator and a THIN copper tube for the low pressure ATF. Result...Squish.
Nice, wonders of "high" pressure or low cost "thin copper" manufacturing!!!
Whatever, Nissan sucks period!!
Higher pressure in the radiator and a THIN copper tube for the low pressure ATF. Result...Squish.
Nice, wonders of "high" pressure or low cost "thin copper" manufacturing!!!
Whatever, Nissan sucks period!!
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