Do you have a email I can send you the pictures so you can post them here? Please if you don't mind doing it for me on here because I don't know how to post it here.
Overheating in long drive
- Thread starter Rp1990
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Find a free hosting site such as flickr.com If you have yahoo account, you already have access to flickr.com otherwise you need to register for an accoutn. Once you upload your pictures to flickr.com, you can then include the link to it here on BITOG.
A good way of checking if you have flow through the heater core is to physically touch the heater core hoses, being very careful of course as they will be very hot. Since there is no heat in the cabin, the two hoses coming out of the firewall should be equally hot.
If one is hot and the other noticeably cooler, then the core is plugged or severely restricted.
If one is hot and the other noticeably cooler, then the core is plugged or severely restricted.
I find the two hoses that goes to the firewall but engine bay is really tight. I can't really get through there. Look like I have to take out upper intake manifold to get there or maybe more.
If the radiator is original, at 180k it is near the end of its life and I'd consider replacing it soon, along with the radiator hoses, and thermostat.
Now if I were you I'd also replace the water pump at the same time too for a fresh start.
Probably $500 if you do it yourself and $1000 if you ask someone to do it?
Now if I were you I'd also replace the water pump at the same time too for a fresh start.
Probably $500 if you do it yourself and $1000 if you ask someone to do it?
Originally Posted By: Vikas
how about the other ends of the heater hoses to the engine? also I am assuming you have already removed all the "beauty covers" from the engine, correct?
Yes I did and I will look at where's the other ends of the heater core hoses going from the firewall once I get home.
how about the other ends of the heater hoses to the engine? also I am assuming you have already removed all the "beauty covers" from the engine, correct?
Yes I did and I will look at where's the other ends of the heater core hoses going from the firewall once I get home.
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
If the radiator is original, at 180k it is near the end of its life and I'd consider replacing it soon, along with the radiator hoses, and thermostat.
Now if I were you I'd also replace the water pump at the same time too for a fresh start.
Probably $500 if you do it yourself and $1000 if you ask someone to do it?
Radiator have less then 103k miles on it. I'm going to look into where's the heater core hoses going to.
If the radiator is original, at 180k it is near the end of its life and I'd consider replacing it soon, along with the radiator hoses, and thermostat.
Now if I were you I'd also replace the water pump at the same time too for a fresh start.
Probably $500 if you do it yourself and $1000 if you ask someone to do it?
Radiator have less then 103k miles on it. I'm going to look into where's the heater core hoses going to.
Radiator may not be cooling but one really needs to diagnosis the problem. For example, it is not difficult to figure out if the thermostat is working or not by observing the ECT readings on a scanner and/or using the infrared temperature gun or worse just feeling the radiator hoses. Similar approach could be used on the heater hoses too.
What is your goal w/ this thread, I am lost now. Is it to get the cooling system fixed and not overhead the car or working on the heater core? Heater cores are pain and you have very good advice on it. But honestly your goal is to get the cooling fixed before the core. Right!!!
My goal is to stop overheating and I don't care if the heater don't work I just want to stop the car from overheating. I can't do nothing today but I will tomorrow if I have a chance. I was thinking about doing heater core cleaning tomorrow anyway if I can get to the other hoses not the one by the firewall because that one is hard to get to.
How do we know if the thermostat is working or not while on the engine? Both fans come on after 15-20 minutes then come back on after 5-10 minutes every cycles.
Does this car have radiator block drain plug?
Hook up a scanner which gives live data and read the ECT parameter aka Engine Coolant Temperature. What do you mean by radiator block drain plug? Are you asking about engine block plug or radiator petcock? Two different things.
If you have air block in the system:-
1) Engine will not cool properly
2) you will get no heat inside cabin.
If you have air block in the system:-
1) Engine will not cool properly
2) you will get no heat inside cabin.
I'm sorry I meant engine block plug.
After my radiator hose get hot my upper radiator hose get tight and I grab them it not soft. I recall that bottom one is soft I don't remember but I may have to do this tomorrow again.
Hmm if the bottom one is soft that jives with the restricted radiator idea as there'd be a partial vacuum as the pump tries to suck from the rad. You should still have scalding heat inside though as the heater core is a different water circuit. If you squeeze a hard hose do you feel water flowing?
I stand by my water pump/ impeller being shot theory.
I stand by my water pump/ impeller being shot theory.
I can't do nothing today because of work but if cleaning radiator don't stop overheating then I will do timing chain job or just replace the water pump. If I'm free tomorrow then I will work on it tomorrow on the car. I will update as soon I do something with the car.
Good luck w/ the pump, the tensioner is one POS!!!
Junk Nissan Engineering!!!
Junk Nissan Engineering!!!
Okay today I drain the water and I saw brown stuff inside the radiator I can barely see it. What is the best way to get rid of the junk inside the radiator?
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