A friend of mine has a honda passport. He recently started running synthetic and 5k intervals at my advice to save time and money. On his last run he used Mobil1 and a pure one filter, at about 5500 miles he was sitting at a red light and the car temp began to creep above normal and continued to do this at red lights. His oil pressure was a good bit above normal also. Upon talking to me we decided to rule it out by changing the oil with more mobil and a regular purolator premium plus. I personally thought the problem was somewhere else but he hasnt had the problem since. With the pure one being a restrictive filter do you think it had gotten clogged or the element collapsed and the bypass was failing?? Any ideas welcome, I hate not knowing what caused a problem.
Overheating due to oil filter collapse??
- Thread starter elwaylite
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Unlikely IMHO. Sounds more like air in his cooling system. I suppose all those failures could occur at one time ...but even if the media collapsed and didn't tear ..and even if the bypass failed ..I can't see how it would result in higher oil pressure and how that could possibly result in over heating at idle.
It doesnt sound like a filter problem to me. Did, or can you, cut open the filter to verify if it indeed did collapse? Does this vehicle have an external oil cooler?
Nah, he chunked it before i though about it.
car temp began to creep above normal and continued to do this at red lights. His oil pressure was a good bit above normal also
I'm thinking that the radiator possibly has some clogged tubes (probably the lower tubes filled with sediment) and that there is not as much coolant flow happening at the radiator. The oil lines are going through one of the radiator side tanks?? and is going through cooler radiator contents (because of the reduced flow in the radiator that coolant is residing longer and cooling more). This would actually cool the oil a little bit more than normal, making it thicker and resulting in the higher oil pressure. Sounds kindof convoluted but if the radiator has reduced flow this could be the resulting scenario...
May want to check the temp at different areas of the radiator with a short stem thermometer (just after engine is shut OFF)..might see that some portion is significantly cooler than the remaining areas- probably the lower tubes in particular...
I'm interested in hearing the solution to this...
Did changing the oil and filter make the problem go away consistantly?
I'm thinking that the radiator possibly has some clogged tubes (probably the lower tubes filled with sediment) and that there is not as much coolant flow happening at the radiator. The oil lines are going through one of the radiator side tanks?? and is going through cooler radiator contents (because of the reduced flow in the radiator that coolant is residing longer and cooling more). This would actually cool the oil a little bit more than normal, making it thicker and resulting in the higher oil pressure. Sounds kindof convoluted but if the radiator has reduced flow this could be the resulting scenario...
May want to check the temp at different areas of the radiator with a short stem thermometer (just after engine is shut OFF)..might see that some portion is significantly cooler than the remaining areas- probably the lower tubes in particular...
I'm interested in hearing the solution to this...
Did changing the oil and filter make the problem go away consistantly?
Yeah, the clutch seems ok on the engine driven fan, he is going to try and diagnose the electric fan to see if this fixes the problem.
Not oil or lubrication related! The bypass system would allow enough oil to flow with a pluged up filter. The filter would have to be completely destroyed so that the internal bypass could not function.
He probably has air traped in his cooling system, failing belt,failing tensioner, pluged up rad, or failing water pump.
He probably has air traped in his cooling system, failing belt,failing tensioner, pluged up rad, or failing water pump.
Sticking thermostat maybe?
Its not oil related...
Is that electric fan supposed to come on only w/ the AC?
Is that electric fan supposed to come on only w/ the AC?
Sometimes owners install after-market accessories that interfere with normal operation of the vehicle. Check to sure this is not the case.
You don't need to cut open an oil filter to "see" if it has collapsed.
Just look down the center tube area. If you can see to the bottom of the element, then the filter hasn't collapsed.
If you can't see down the center tube area, then it has.
NEVER..cut open a filter if you think your going to claim any warranty against the filter manufacturer. Your messing with the evidence if you do. Everything inside the filter is relivent to diagnosing what happend.
Take all the pictures you want but send the filter in tact to the filter company. If you want to claim warranty, call their toll free #. They will ( or should ) send you a filter warranty retrieval kit.
You will get a warranty claim report back.
Just look down the center tube area. If you can see to the bottom of the element, then the filter hasn't collapsed.
If you can't see down the center tube area, then it has.
NEVER..cut open a filter if you think your going to claim any warranty against the filter manufacturer. Your messing with the evidence if you do. Everything inside the filter is relivent to diagnosing what happend.
Take all the pictures you want but send the filter in tact to the filter company. If you want to claim warranty, call their toll free #. They will ( or should ) send you a filter warranty retrieval kit.
You will get a warranty claim report back.
Yes, it has been running fine for 1.5 weeks.
Kinda sounds like a testimonial for NOT using PureOne's for extended oil change intervals ...
Just got him over here and we let it idle stationary for a long time. It has a belt driven fan and an auxillary fan out the front side of the radiator. The auxillary is not coming on and the engine began to over heat with time, so it must be a fan problem. Its a 3.2L dohc with a engine driven fan so Im not sure if the auxillary makes that much of a difference, but its definitely not coming on.
I highly doubt that the oil or oil filter caused those symptoms. Typically oil pressure gauges are after the filter, so a clogged filter should not cause a high reading.
In fact, it is very hard to get both climbing coolant temps and climbing oil pressure at the same time under engine idle conditions.
Something else is wrong with the car, probably in the cooling system. I also suspect that the reported simultaneous climb in both coolant temperature and oil pressure might be a user mistake.
John
In fact, it is very hard to get both climbing coolant temps and climbing oil pressure at the same time under engine idle conditions.
Something else is wrong with the car, probably in the cooling system. I also suspect that the reported simultaneous climb in both coolant temperature and oil pressure might be a user mistake.
John
The situation that I had described above happened to me over this past summer. The radiator was not transferring enough heat and the clutch activated fan was not engaging due to not enough heat coming through the rad.. found out that the bottom 6 tubes were clogged, and only the remainder was transferring any heat--(flowing any coolant). the rest was stagnant coolant. The clutch fan not coming on was only adding insult to injury so-to-speak. Got a new radiator, clutch fan started engaging when it needed to and everything was fine afterward.
Sorry for the long story..
Hopefully your fan can be replaced/repaired easily if that is the culprit, but if the fan turns out ok- suspect the radiator for less than full functionality. Looking forward to hearing the final solution
Sorry for the long story..
Hopefully your fan can be replaced/repaired easily if that is the culprit, but if the fan turns out ok- suspect the radiator for less than full functionality. Looking forward to hearing the final solution
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