Save it for the next "push, pull, or drag" sale.
over 465k miles---decision time
- Thread starter joel95ex
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If it is a coolant leak that you see steam out of the exhaust you can usually see stained spark plugs. That happened on mine when it died on 190k of hard miles.
Try BARS and fresh spark plugs if it is stained. I'm not sure if you can do anything to stop the oil burn other than running thicker HM oil.
Try BARS and fresh spark plugs if it is stained. I'm not sure if you can do anything to stop the oil burn other than running thicker HM oil.
If you want to be cheap you can "borrow" tools from autozone to run your own compression test, that'll tell you how your rings are holding up.
I'd try Thermagasket.
JHZR2
Staff member
wow, tough call. The car is obviously a good one, having run and lasted that long without major issues (Im assuming). TO some extent, your question is very valid because you dont want to replace one thing, and then after spending the money, have something else fail. But if youre going in for TB, etc., you may be able to do an assessment and identify if it looks like things are good enough to justify trying the HG.
Id give it a shot if it looks like things will come apart and go back together OK. If not, Id probably not sink the cost or time into the TB either...
Have you done a compression and leakdown test? That may be most telling for you to make a decision off of.
Id give it a shot if it looks like things will come apart and go back together OK. If not, Id probably not sink the cost or time into the TB either...
Have you done a compression and leakdown test? That may be most telling for you to make a decision off of.
It's a '95, but, it's an Accord.
Should check the OEM parts reorder issues.
For instance, the driver side lock mechanism on my '92 Vigor is not orderable anymore, and when it broke it took $900 to repair the door, with a junkyard replacement.
When the OEM stops selling the parts it's just a matter of time before something dies that will cost you the car, in my opinion.
Should check the OEM parts reorder issues.
For instance, the driver side lock mechanism on my '92 Vigor is not orderable anymore, and when it broke it took $900 to repair the door, with a junkyard replacement.
When the OEM stops selling the parts it's just a matter of time before something dies that will cost you the car, in my opinion.
Question: let's say you don't mind doing some exploratory work, like remove the head first and then make a decision. Can you do that, and still get around in the meantime?
I'm thinking, you could pull the head and sell for scrap if you decide the motor is done for. Or you could then buy a new(er) motor if you so decide. Or then decide to drop off the head for a rebuild. Basically, if you have the luxury of time: what is the downside to just digging into this and getting a better look-see?
I'm thinking, you could pull the head and sell for scrap if you decide the motor is done for. Or you could then buy a new(er) motor if you so decide. Or then decide to drop off the head for a rebuild. Basically, if you have the luxury of time: what is the downside to just digging into this and getting a better look-see?
Originally Posted By: joel95ex
thanks guys. I'm pretty attached to the car and other than paint and driver's leather, it is good. it is over due for a timing belt and I have all of those parts already so I might change t-belt and try a pour-in treatment and try to get it to 500k. It actually has more than 465k since the speed sensor was out for a while. we just bought a brand new car so I don't want another car pmt. as far as the rest of the car I was going to plasti-dip the whole thing after the motor situation is fixed. as far a HG goes if I pulled head then I would surely get a reman since I guarantee this one is prob not truly flat
fix it right and keep it going at 465k I would want to set a record. If its a decent driver fix her amd keep it going sounds like she has been good to you.
thanks guys. I'm pretty attached to the car and other than paint and driver's leather, it is good. it is over due for a timing belt and I have all of those parts already so I might change t-belt and try a pour-in treatment and try to get it to 500k. It actually has more than 465k since the speed sensor was out for a while. we just bought a brand new car so I don't want another car pmt. as far as the rest of the car I was going to plasti-dip the whole thing after the motor situation is fixed. as far a HG goes if I pulled head then I would surely get a reman since I guarantee this one is prob not truly flat
fix it right and keep it going at 465k I would want to set a record. If its a decent driver fix her amd keep it going sounds like she has been good to you.
i currently am working on a 97 ex with the same engine that blew from lack of oil at 166k. I had a difficult time finding f22b1's around that were satisfactory and in my price range (i am a cheapskate). I gambled with a F23A JDM engine from Ebay and will be swapping that in the next few months. I kept the cost down by picking it up versus shipping. The F23A is from the 98-02 accord vintage, but a JDM one has slightly higher compression (5hp~ gain) over the US F23A1.
If you pursue that, use the original intake manifold and wiring harness. Pretty much everything else is plug and play. Good luck.
edit: yours is ODB1 so you would need a new ECU as well if you went the F23A route. If you are shopping for another F22B1, you'll run into a similar issue if the engine is from a 96-97.
If you pursue that, use the original intake manifold and wiring harness. Pretty much everything else is plug and play. Good luck.
edit: yours is ODB1 so you would need a new ECU as well if you went the F23A route. If you are shopping for another F22B1, you'll run into a similar issue if the engine is from a 96-97.
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The vehicle is at the end of its service life, or well past it really.
Time to junk it.
Time to junk it.
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