Completely useless SBC opinions wanted. Pure curiosity...

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I pose the following question to fellow forum members for no other reason other than my own interest in the opinions of others in my field of work.

I'm currently smack in the middle of a head gasket job on a 1992 C4 Corvette. 157k miles, auto, L98 TPI engine. It originally came in running poorly, missing on cylinders 6 and 8, and while running it would literally chill the intake runners for said cylinders to the point that after 10 minutes of idling they felt like the low-side A/C line during operation.

Long story short, the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm had given up after 30 years, causing fuel to be sucked into the vacuum port for said regulator that just happened to be directly across from the intake runners for cylinders 6 and 8. Gotta love high school physics!

The lower intake gasket was also leaking coolant, so the customer decided to move ahead with my recommended repair: a set of plugs, complete intake reseal, fuel pressure regulator repair, and a coolant flush with oil change. The car ran flawlessly after repairs.

Unfortunately, all was not well. The engine overheated during my test drive, ejecting coolant out the rear of the left head faster than you can say "head gasket". Limped her back to the shop, and confirmed the issue. Coolant leak dead center of the LH cylinder head to block mating point. A quick Google showed that the L98 does indeed tend to eat it's LH head gasket, especially if a lower intake gasket is left unattended to.

The customer elected to have the heads pulled and re-done, against my personal opinion. He got the car cheap, it's nothing special, and he'll be upside down on it no matter which way you look at it. I got the heads off today, and my suspicions were confirmed. There isn't a lick of crosshatch left on the cylinder walls. None. I could shave in them (ok, not that bad) but it looks exactly like a ridden-hard-and-put-away-wet Corvette would. I immediately informed my writer that doing a head job on this engine was pointless, however he and the customer decided to press on. I've been told to "scuff up" the cylinder walls before I put the heads on.... yes, you read that right. "Scuff up". I was adamant that any "scuffing" I could do to a cylinder wall would last about as long as it took the engine to build oil pressure on first start, but that's what I've been told to do.

I have half a mind to just slap the heads on when they come back and call it a day. Why would I waste an hour or more on a meaningless procedure? All this thing has to do is run smooth and cool at this point, beyond that it's on it's own. I said my piece, I was overruled.

What would you do?
 
In the old days the crosshatch was explained as a treatment to help seat the rings. The crosshatch eventually disappeared as the cylinder wall wore. In fact the cylinder walls wore so much that enough material was removed such that it left a metal ridge where near the top of the cylinder ( remember the ridge reamer tool? ) . The ridge reamer took off the ridge enough to get the pistons out of the block. Then the block would be bored and a new cross hatch would be applied and new oversized pistons with oversized rings would be run. With improvements in oil formulation, old mechanics were amazed they would take apart engines and the crosshatch would still be there. Young mechanics got used to seeing the crosshatch there. If concerned, a person could mike the cylinder and determine the actual amount of wear. If the customer just wants to get the engine going again instead of a rebuild, then so be it. My two cents. :)

P.S. “ scuffing the cylinder is pointless and actually makes the service writer or whoever said that, look retarded. “
 
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The original customer complaint wasn't for oil consumption or misfire diagnosis so I'd leave the cylinders alone, repair the leaking head gasket as approved by the customer and perform whatever else they request and be done with the job.

If you feel that a complete cylinder head overhaul is unwarranted after you've inspected them then make your professional opinion known and be prepared to do as the customer requests. At the very least you should plan for and charge for a valve stem seal replacement based on standard industry practices.
 
Here is some info on the L-98. Apparently it was still in the 91 Corvette but the manufacturing date of the 92 Vette has a bearing on it. :)

4025D87B-12CD-4783-90C8-2B6AF315A1BD.png
 
What would I do? Sounds like there is a service adviser who is between you and the customer. I'm not sure what the pay setup is for you, but if I was hourly then it wouldn't matter, I would be paid no matter what. [I'm guessing this is not flat rate?] I might not like it, since it feels like sub-standard work, but... it's documented as to what was found, and what was thought to be best, and was overruled. Not much more can be done. Put it together and move on--maybe the customer wants a couple of rides for the summer, then maybe will come back later for a engine swap if he determines that he really likes the car and wants to keep it (or maybe he wants to figure out if he even wants to keep it, if he hasn't driven it much maybe he is unsure and wants to take the cheapest/fastest route at the moment).
 
Throw the heads on and see what blows next. I would see if the owner would like to have the engine totally rebuilt or swapped with a higher horsepower crate motor with a guarantee. Usually those SBC are bulletproof but if it was rode hard and put away wet that is what you get. Not your fault as a mechanic.
 
The service writer is a complete moron.

The only time you need to apply a cross-hatching to the bores is to bed in new rings. Since you aren't touching the bottom end and the pistons aren't leaving the cylinders, there is absolutely no reason to do ANYTHING to those bores. What he's advocating for will just cause damage.

Put the heads on, it should be fine. DO NOT follow what the SW told you to do, he is breathtakingly incompetent.
 
I had a 1991 Corvette for a lot of years. L98, cam, large tube runners, headers, exhaust, converter, True ZR1 blade rims. It was a fun car for what it was. Ran high to mid 12's

Did the head gaskets at 126,000 miles. Thing had none, nada crosshatching when I pulled the heads. Put it back together ran it out to 200,000 before it started to use oil. I then dropped a 383 in it. Don't scuff, put it back together and run it. It will be fine the L98 is 9.5 to 1 compression ratio and if it is stock will run forever. They didn't make enough power to break much and are in a relatively light car. I wouldn't be worried.
Of all the cars I miss, I miss that one the most.
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I've been told to "scuff up" the cylinder walls before I put the heads on.... yes, you read that right. "Scuff up". I was adamant that any "scuffing" I could do to a cylinder wall would last about as long as it took the engine to build oil pressure on first start, but that's what I've been told to do.

I have half a mind to just slap the heads on when they come back and call it a day. Why would I waste an hour or more on a meaningless procedure? All this thing has to do is run smooth and cool at this point, beyond that it's on it's own. I said my piece, I was overruled.

What would you do?

With the pistons in the block/ short block assembled ?

Guy's a dolt......
 
Sorry for the late reply, off camping all weekend. Thank you for all the responses, I had a feeling I was correct. I will be installing the heads on the block as-is. There will be a warranty for the work I perform, but there won't be any warranty on future oil burning or bottom end issues.
 
Sorry for the late reply, off camping all weekend. Thank you for all the responses, I had a feeling I was correct. I will be installing the heads on the block as-is. There will be a warranty for the work I perform, but there won't be any warranty on future oil burning or bottom end issues.
I bet if he wasn't using oil before it will be fine a bunch more miles. I hammered my C4, took a long time to start burning oil.
 
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