JHZR2
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Good point. I wonder if tallow-based soap or candles would serve as a good coating.
Out with the old, in with the new!
- Thread starter moribundman
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The deer tallow product is softer than a solid deoderant.
Mori,
Do the Audi V-6's, like yours, require any 'specially designated' oils? I understand that you use the best b/c you care about your car, and it has been your experience that these engines run best on 40-weight oils, but I'm wondering what the actual factory oil requirements are for this engine.
When I worked at a WM TLE in 2007, we had a customer that used to bring in an 1993 Audi Sedan, I'm pretty sure it was a '100'. It had a V-6 engine, I'm assuming close to yours (2.8/3.0 liter), and all we used to put in it was bulk Pennzoil dino 5w30...I always wondered if this is what 'should' have gone in the engine....
Do the Audi V-6's, like yours, require any 'specially designated' oils? I understand that you use the best b/c you care about your car, and it has been your experience that these engines run best on 40-weight oils, but I'm wondering what the actual factory oil requirements are for this engine.
When I worked at a WM TLE in 2007, we had a customer that used to bring in an 1993 Audi Sedan, I'm pretty sure it was a '100'. It had a V-6 engine, I'm assuming close to yours (2.8/3.0 liter), and all we used to put in it was bulk Pennzoil dino 5w30...I always wondered if this is what 'should' have gone in the engine....
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Per the 1996 manual the engine oil requirement of the 2.8 12v V6 engine:
A) for the European market:
All viscosities from 5w30 to 10W-40 were sanctioned if VW 500 00 oil was used. Back then, all VW 500 00 oils were fully synthetic. VW 502 has since superseded VW 500, and VW 502 oils may be full or semi synthetics, or Group III oils.
Non synthetic oils were sanctioned in grades from 5w30 to 20W-50/10W-60 depending on ambient temperatures. These oils were generally not considered a good choice, but an acceptable one. The since long defunct spec was VW 501.00.
B) for the US market:
API SF or SG (acceptable due to lower speeds driven)
API SF /SG 5w30 oils are expressly not allowed above 68°F ambient temperature or for prolonged high speed long distance driving.
The dealer where I bought the car used back then Castrol 5W-50 for all Audi and Porsche cars.
These days:
I feed my Audi generally ACEA A3 spec oils, preferably those that meet either of the following: VW 502*/505*/505.01. They are all good choices. 5W-40 is preferred as a true four-season viscosity rang, generally offering the best compromise between performance, service life, and oil consumption in the 2.8 12v V6 engine.
* All VW 502 oils now must also meet VW 505 (This was a change implemented when VW 502 was updated some time ago).
A) for the European market:
All viscosities from 5w30 to 10W-40 were sanctioned if VW 500 00 oil was used. Back then, all VW 500 00 oils were fully synthetic. VW 502 has since superseded VW 500, and VW 502 oils may be full or semi synthetics, or Group III oils.
Non synthetic oils were sanctioned in grades from 5w30 to 20W-50/10W-60 depending on ambient temperatures. These oils were generally not considered a good choice, but an acceptable one. The since long defunct spec was VW 501.00.
B) for the US market:
API SF or SG (acceptable due to lower speeds driven)
API SF /SG 5w30 oils are expressly not allowed above 68°F ambient temperature or for prolonged high speed long distance driving.
The dealer where I bought the car used back then Castrol 5W-50 for all Audi and Porsche cars.
These days:
I feed my Audi generally ACEA A3 spec oils, preferably those that meet either of the following: VW 502*/505*/505.01. They are all good choices. 5W-40 is preferred as a true four-season viscosity rang, generally offering the best compromise between performance, service life, and oil consumption in the 2.8 12v V6 engine.
* All VW 502 oils now must also meet VW 505 (This was a change implemented when VW 502 was updated some time ago).
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Originally Posted By: addyguy
Thanks for the clarification, Mori!
So I guess bulk PZ 5w30 SM would have be acceptable for an older, 'beater' Audi 100 V-6 (this one was rough)...
Depends on how you drive the car, I guess.
Thanks for the clarification, Mori!
So I guess bulk PZ 5w30 SM would have be acceptable for an older, 'beater' Audi 100 V-6 (this one was rough)...
Depends on how you drive the car, I guess.
Must be good oil .Just by putting the oil jugs on top of the engine and getting all the benefits listed on the package label is a big wow. Also needing to drive with gloves on to handle all the power gained by the oil is most impressive. I must try some.
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Is that you or are those the voices in your head talking?
I am really not sure Mori.I just got excited about the oil and the need for the gloves! Doc.Haas would recommend a 20wt.
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I wouldn't let Doc Hass let near my engine!
PS: It was a cold day. I wear gloves then. In the summer I wear driving gloves, because the wheel is hot after parking in the sun. Also for improved grip.
PS: It was a cold day. I wear gloves then. In the summer I wear driving gloves, because the wheel is hot after parking in the sun. Also for improved grip.
I wouldn't let the good doc Haas near my BMW engine either!
Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Thanks for the clarification, Mori!
So I guess bulk PZ 5w30 SM would have be acceptable for an older, 'beater' Audi 100 V-6 (this one was rough)...
Depends on how you drive the car, I guess.
I shouldn't stereotype, but the owner was a fairly quiet Asian lady who didn't speak a lot of Engilsh. I don't think she was exploring the limits of this car on a regular basis.
This customer was actually a funny situation - she didn't understand how long she was supposed to wait for an oil change, so she brought the car in once a month, or at about 1,500km for oil changes. Oil came out like new. We tried to be reasonable, and gently suggested to her that she could go longer, and come back to us in 3 months or 5,000km.
But other places she got work done on her car weren't as honest, and took advantage of her confusion - they said she needed an oil change every time, so she did one, or would tell he she 'needed one soon', so she'd be back at our shop. I swear we changed her oil 3 times in 2 months once!
She was sooo worried about her car needing an oil change all the time that even when we (gently) tried to explain to her she didn't need one, she would get all panicky, and just exclaim "need oil change, need oil change!' so we'd do another one. Oil came out so clean, it was like it was coming out of the bulk gun - not a speck of dirt or darkness in it. It always felt like such as waste, and was so funny, all at the same time.....
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Thanks for the clarification, Mori!
So I guess bulk PZ 5w30 SM would have be acceptable for an older, 'beater' Audi 100 V-6 (this one was rough)...
Depends on how you drive the car, I guess.
I shouldn't stereotype, but the owner was a fairly quiet Asian lady who didn't speak a lot of Engilsh. I don't think she was exploring the limits of this car on a regular basis.
This customer was actually a funny situation - she didn't understand how long she was supposed to wait for an oil change, so she brought the car in once a month, or at about 1,500km for oil changes. Oil came out like new. We tried to be reasonable, and gently suggested to her that she could go longer, and come back to us in 3 months or 5,000km.
But other places she got work done on her car weren't as honest, and took advantage of her confusion - they said she needed an oil change every time, so she did one, or would tell he she 'needed one soon', so she'd be back at our shop. I swear we changed her oil 3 times in 2 months once!
She was sooo worried about her car needing an oil change all the time that even when we (gently) tried to explain to her she didn't need one, she would get all panicky, and just exclaim "need oil change, need oil change!' so we'd do another one. Oil came out so clean, it was like it was coming out of the bulk gun - not a speck of dirt or darkness in it. It always felt like such as waste, and was so funny, all at the same time.....
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JHZR2
Staff member
Back to the stag tallow and sonax special preserver wax, I wonder if the eastwood HD anti-rust protector or Amsoil HD MP are "equivalent". They make an aerosol version of each, and also Eastwood sells a brushable product.
I'd like to try the eastwood product, which claims it is a self-healing brown wax... Sonax claims "Protects all parts liable to corrosion. Reliably protects against rust and corrosion by forming a closed wax film. This transparent film is resistant to water and salt. Ideal for long-term protection and for use in the winter months. Silicone-free."
Still no luck on stag tallow though...
I'd like to try the eastwood product, which claims it is a self-healing brown wax... Sonax claims "Protects all parts liable to corrosion. Reliably protects against rust and corrosion by forming a closed wax film. This transparent film is resistant to water and salt. Ideal for long-term protection and for use in the winter months. Silicone-free."
Still no luck on stag tallow though...
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I haven't seen or used the Eastwood product, so I don't know if it's similar. As long as it goes on smooth and leaves a thick, non-sticky film behind it should work fine.
Maybe try ChapStick on the door gaskets...
Maybe try ChapStick on the door gaskets...
JHZR2
Staff member
I know the Amsoil does, Ive not used the eastwood, but it sounds like it is nearly the same thing...
Yeah, Ill go to whole foods and find some "natural" chapstick.
Actually, lipstick is made from used fryer grease... maybe I can find some clear lipstick for the gaskets!
Yeah, Ill go to whole foods and find some "natural" chapstick.
Actually, lipstick is made from used fryer grease... maybe I can find some clear lipstick for the gaskets!
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They got chapstick (I'm using that term as a generic name now) made from or with beeswax at WFM. Your car will smell like Christmas!
JHZR2
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I posted over at Autopia if anyone knew of a source for stag tallow as a product for door seals... I got this:
Quote:
"Stag tallow? Are you kidding? Or Krytox, a fluorinated grease? I can't believe you would want to use animal fat on your door seals. The Krytox kind of makes sense, because the fluorinated oil base is difficult to remove.
Pretty much every trim dressing sold for that purpose is a silicone product of some sort. And I thought the common product in Europe for door seals was 1Z Gummipgledge
"
Quote:
"Stag tallow? Are you kidding? Or Krytox, a fluorinated grease? I can't believe you would want to use animal fat on your door seals. The Krytox kind of makes sense, because the fluorinated oil base is difficult to remove.
Pretty much every trim dressing sold for that purpose is a silicone product of some sort. And I thought the common product in Europe for door seals was 1Z Gummipgledge
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"Magotty tallow, ARRRRRH!"
It's purified tallow, which can not get rancid in the application in questions. It's inexpensive and it's worked for over 80 years on gaskets. It doesn't damage natural rubber, unlike silicone products, and it doesn not affect synthetic rubber either. It prevents door gaskets from freezing to the door frame very well. I really don't care if anybody thinks it's bogus. It's a proven product and that it's unknown in the New World doesn't mean squat. My door gaskets look like new. I got enough empirical proof.
PS: I got an interesting A-RX review from Audiword. May I post it here?
It's purified tallow, which can not get rancid in the application in questions. It's inexpensive and it's worked for over 80 years on gaskets. It doesn't damage natural rubber, unlike silicone products, and it doesn not affect synthetic rubber either. It prevents door gaskets from freezing to the door frame very well. I really don't care if anybody thinks it's bogus. It's a proven product and that it's unknown in the New World doesn't mean squat. My door gaskets look like new. I got enough empirical proof.
PS: I got an interesting A-RX review from Audiword. May I post it here?
JHZR2
Staff member
I don't either... just posting what I got back... i.e. no leads and a bunch of words.
Guess I won't be getting the real stuff here. I think I may be over there in October, so hopefully Ill be able to find it then...
Thanks for the info...
Guess I won't be getting the real stuff here. I think I may be over there in October, so hopefully Ill be able to find it then...
Thanks for the info...
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You can get deer (or elk) tallow from tanneries. Buckskin is treated with deer tallow. You might find deer tallow in musical supply shops, because tallow is used on the strings of some instruments, on the saxophone, and on bagpipes. It's also used on the cork gaskets in flutes. Gymnasts use deer tallow to protect their hand and feet, marathon runners use it also on their feet to prevent chafing. It works better and longer than vaseline under a drysuit.
deer tallow stick -- from the UK
deer tallow stick -- from the UK
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