I have 2011 toyota camry with 4 cylinder and 2016 yukon with 8 cylinder with shut off deal for fuel economy and both state to use 20 wt oil. Im stashed up with 5w 30. I'm thinking 30 wt will be fine in either especially the camry. I don't have any experience with general motors cut off cylinder deal. Any objections,opinions not to use little heavy weight oil for each?
Opinions on weight
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Originally Posted By: Snowball
I have 2011 toyota camry with 4 cylinder and 2016 yukon with 8 cylinder with shut off deal for fuel economy and both state to use 20 wt oil. Im stashed up with 5w 30. I'm thinking 30 wt will be fine in either especially the camry. I don't have any experience with general motors cut off cylinder deal. Any objections,opinions not to use little heavy weight oil for each?
If something motor/oil related breaks on your Yukon-chances are they won't test the oil. However-unlike some on here I am not one to recommend an oil other than what it states in your owners manual.
You are experiencing the down side of "oil stashing". My stash is at Walmart.
I have 2011 toyota camry with 4 cylinder and 2016 yukon with 8 cylinder with shut off deal for fuel economy and both state to use 20 wt oil. Im stashed up with 5w 30. I'm thinking 30 wt will be fine in either especially the camry. I don't have any experience with general motors cut off cylinder deal. Any objections,opinions not to use little heavy weight oil for each?
If something motor/oil related breaks on your Yukon-chances are they won't test the oil. However-unlike some on here I am not one to recommend an oil other than what it states in your owners manual.
You are experiencing the down side of "oil stashing". My stash is at Walmart.
The heavier weight oil may help with the 1 second start up grind that is common in the Camry. Report back if it helps or if you even notice it.
I need to loose some weight. Was that the question?
Your sure right bout the camry grind. I always noticed it. Always used 20 wt in it. I will definitely try the 30 wt and see if that goes away. I doubt it but we will see.
+1
Hi Snowball,
I wont' make any recommendations on your Yukon, but to the other, I've been with Toyota for awhile with my two previous vehicles being an Xb and Camry. Both of these vehicles had the 2az-fe engine. The Camry was spec'd for 5w-30 and the Xb 0w-20. On the Xb I went off the reservation half way through my warranty period and started using 5/10w-30 conventional oil. I did this not because there was any noticeable difference in noise or any oil consumption issues but because I was concerned with reports of same. Nonetheless, the viscosity change served me well with zero issues when I sold it with 140,000+ Kms on the OD.
I wont' make any recommendations on your Yukon, but to the other, I've been with Toyota for awhile with my two previous vehicles being an Xb and Camry. Both of these vehicles had the 2az-fe engine. The Camry was spec'd for 5w-30 and the Xb 0w-20. On the Xb I went off the reservation half way through my warranty period and started using 5/10w-30 conventional oil. I did this not because there was any noticeable difference in noise or any oil consumption issues but because I was concerned with reports of same. Nonetheless, the viscosity change served me well with zero issues when I sold it with 140,000+ Kms on the OD.
0W-20 and 5W-20 are totally unnecessary. There's not one engine in the world that actually needs a 20 weight to order to operate.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
0W-20 and 5W-20 are totally unnecessary. There's not one engine in the world that actually needs a 20 weight to order to operate.
I think the OEM would say it does in fact need the 0W-20 to get the stated EPA fuel economy figures.
Would the engine likely (ambiguous at best) last longer on 0W-30 than 0W-20 to 200K+ miles? Unknown.
My '14 Rogue states it needs 0W-20 API SN oil but I run M1 AFE 0W-30 oil (5K OCI) just "because".
0W-20 and 5W-20 are totally unnecessary. There's not one engine in the world that actually needs a 20 weight to order to operate.
I think the OEM would say it does in fact need the 0W-20 to get the stated EPA fuel economy figures.
Would the engine likely (ambiguous at best) last longer on 0W-30 than 0W-20 to 200K+ miles? Unknown.
My '14 Rogue states it needs 0W-20 API SN oil but I run M1 AFE 0W-30 oil (5K OCI) just "because".
Originally Posted By: Snowball
I have 2011 toyota camry with 4 cylinder and 2016 yukon with 8 cylinder with shut off deal for fuel economy and both state to use 20 wt oil. Im stashed up with 5w 30. I'm thinking 30 wt will be fine in either especially the camry. I don't have any experience with general motors cut off cylinder deal. Any objections,opinions not to use little heavy weight oil for each?
Your fine, even more so in your warm climate for 3/4's of the year or so.
I run 5/30 in both my 20w car and truck.
The Durango, mentions 5/30 but mentions if you have the engine with cylinder cutoff the drag may effect operation. That was an 08.
I have the 8 cylinder without the cutoff.
Our 2012 Mazda Skyactive engine states outside of the USA 5/30 is fine.
Bottom line - 5/20 is for the EPA interference (for the most part) but even more relevant to me is your warm climate compared to the northern states, everything is an average and you are in above average climate zone and I do not think either engine will know the difference and actually might be better off for it... its why I use 5/30 ALL the time. Once in a great while I did use a 20 for the 4 winter month period in the Mazda.
I have 2011 toyota camry with 4 cylinder and 2016 yukon with 8 cylinder with shut off deal for fuel economy and both state to use 20 wt oil. Im stashed up with 5w 30. I'm thinking 30 wt will be fine in either especially the camry. I don't have any experience with general motors cut off cylinder deal. Any objections,opinions not to use little heavy weight oil for each?
Your fine, even more so in your warm climate for 3/4's of the year or so.
I run 5/30 in both my 20w car and truck.
The Durango, mentions 5/30 but mentions if you have the engine with cylinder cutoff the drag may effect operation. That was an 08.
I have the 8 cylinder without the cutoff.
Our 2012 Mazda Skyactive engine states outside of the USA 5/30 is fine.
Bottom line - 5/20 is for the EPA interference (for the most part) but even more relevant to me is your warm climate compared to the northern states, everything is an average and you are in above average climate zone and I do not think either engine will know the difference and actually might be better off for it... its why I use 5/30 ALL the time. Once in a great while I did use a 20 for the 4 winter month period in the Mazda.
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
0W-20 and 5W-20 are totally unnecessary. There's not one engine in the world that actually needs a 20 weight to order to operate.
+1 ......
and R&D resources allocated and burnt on developing current xW20/xW16....
...should've been reallocated to Space programme for mankind .....
or infrastructure hardwares in NA ..
0W-20 and 5W-20 are totally unnecessary. There's not one engine in the world that actually needs a 20 weight to order to operate.
+1 ......
and R&D resources allocated and burnt on developing current xW20/xW16....
...should've been reallocated to Space programme for mankind .....
or infrastructure hardwares in NA ..
I have a question about a vehicle's warranty and it's motor oil... I was told that any self changing of motor oil needs to be fully documented as to the oil, filter and mileage that it was done - a dated receipt with the motor oil listed, oil filter listed and the mileage written. I was also told that a manufacturer will try to get out of honoring a warranty claim if something wasn't done properly. I don't change my own oil so I have receipts from the places that have changed my oil.
Maybe I was told something incorrectly but without documentation or documentation with the above info how to prove the correct oil or even if it was done? I'm thinking to not void any warranty it would be the best thing to use what the owner's manual states with proof ... just curious! Thanks!
Maybe I was told something incorrectly but without documentation or documentation with the above info how to prove the correct oil or even if it was done? I'm thinking to not void any warranty it would be the best thing to use what the owner's manual states with proof ... just curious! Thanks!
Originally Posted By: CKN
Originally Posted By: Snowball
I have 2011 toyota camry with 4 cylinder and 2016 yukon with 8 cylinder with shut off deal for fuel economy and both state to use 20 wt oil. Im stashed up with 5w 30. I'm thinking 30 wt will be fine in either especially the camry. I don't have any experience with general motors cut off cylinder deal. Any objections,opinions not to use little heavy weight oil for each?
If something motor/oil related breaks on your Yukon-chances are they won't test the oil. However-unlike some on here I am not one to recommend an oil other than what it states in your owners manual.
You are experiencing the down side of "oil stashing". My stash is at Walmart.
yes
Originally Posted By: Snowball
I have 2011 toyota camry with 4 cylinder and 2016 yukon with 8 cylinder with shut off deal for fuel economy and both state to use 20 wt oil. Im stashed up with 5w 30. I'm thinking 30 wt will be fine in either especially the camry. I don't have any experience with general motors cut off cylinder deal. Any objections,opinions not to use little heavy weight oil for each?
If something motor/oil related breaks on your Yukon-chances are they won't test the oil. However-unlike some on here I am not one to recommend an oil other than what it states in your owners manual.
You are experiencing the down side of "oil stashing". My stash is at Walmart.
yes
Is your 5W-30 stash Dexos certified too? If not, you've got two issues. Using the wrong oil weight, and also using non-Dexos certified oils. In the unlikely event that you have an powertrain issue, you can bet that's the first thing GM will look for. They LOVE to deny warranty claims over stuff like this. You've spent $50k+ on a Yukon and are willing to chance the warranty all because you stashed the wrong oil weight/spec?
Use it in the Camry, but I'd stick with a 0W-20 Dexos for the duration of the warranty period.
Use it in the Camry, but I'd stick with a 0W-20 Dexos for the duration of the warranty period.
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If they could actually tell. In over 40 years of both personal and commercial vehicle ownership, some with engines more expensive than many folk's complete automobiles or pickups, with some warranty issues sporadically over those years and I have never had a dealer shop even ask what I was using for oil, let alone actually jump thru all the hoops to test it or make me jump thru hoops to provide documentation of what I did. Not even so much as a simple UOA, which could not tell if the oil was the correct oil or not. And the diligence I put into maintenance, if they did test the oil, it would show it being well within serviceable condition.
I use a 10w30 conventional year round in my 2006 Cadillac CTS 3.6 that calls for M1 5w30 by GM, and I have had fewer issues than most folks with that LY7 engine. Still a great car and planning on holding onto it for quite some time (partly due it being old enough now to qualify for the very bottom annual tag registration of $50 in my state). The wife loves it. I alternate on my 2015 Silverado 2500 6.0L L96. I typically run a 5w30 in the winter and a 10w30 in the summer. If I had one of those newer engines that called for 0w20 and stayed with 20 weight in it, I doubt I would use anything different than 5w20 all year round. On the dexos1 Gen 1 list were several 5w20 oils. Doesn't matter. the dealer could never tell if I would be using a 5w20 or a 0w20 anyway. Pick a name off the dexos list and tell them that is what you are using, if you say anything at all. I have never had to jump thru hoops of piles of documentation to prove anything. GM, Ford, Detroit, Cummins, etc. None have even cared. And I have never seen ample evidence of OEM's asking such things to convince me it is an issue. One or two anecdotal stories on the internet does not a policy practice make. More often than not, the owner said something that caused the dealer to question things. It is like talking to cops. Don't say anything more than you need to. And then, act simple like Forrest Gump when you do.
Now if I move to Canada or Alaska, then I might consider 0w20. But overall, I don't suffer from an enlarged paranoia gland that makes me waste a lot of time worrying about what the OEM wants. Many commercial and fleet users dump in the same oil they use for all their stuff and the OEM's don't ever fuss about that.
I use a 10w30 conventional year round in my 2006 Cadillac CTS 3.6 that calls for M1 5w30 by GM, and I have had fewer issues than most folks with that LY7 engine. Still a great car and planning on holding onto it for quite some time (partly due it being old enough now to qualify for the very bottom annual tag registration of $50 in my state). The wife loves it. I alternate on my 2015 Silverado 2500 6.0L L96. I typically run a 5w30 in the winter and a 10w30 in the summer. If I had one of those newer engines that called for 0w20 and stayed with 20 weight in it, I doubt I would use anything different than 5w20 all year round. On the dexos1 Gen 1 list were several 5w20 oils. Doesn't matter. the dealer could never tell if I would be using a 5w20 or a 0w20 anyway. Pick a name off the dexos list and tell them that is what you are using, if you say anything at all. I have never had to jump thru hoops of piles of documentation to prove anything. GM, Ford, Detroit, Cummins, etc. None have even cared. And I have never seen ample evidence of OEM's asking such things to convince me it is an issue. One or two anecdotal stories on the internet does not a policy practice make. More often than not, the owner said something that caused the dealer to question things. It is like talking to cops. Don't say anything more than you need to. And then, act simple like Forrest Gump when you do.
Now if I move to Canada or Alaska, then I might consider 0w20. But overall, I don't suffer from an enlarged paranoia gland that makes me waste a lot of time worrying about what the OEM wants. Many commercial and fleet users dump in the same oil they use for all their stuff and the OEM's don't ever fuss about that.
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