Opinion on metal in my differential

[mrwalters]

I have a chevy express 1 ton with 14 bolt rear end. At 30k miles the rear end failed and an axle came out. I had the entire rear end rebuilt. Since then I have put another 40k miles on it. The rear end is loud when I am on the gas and absolutely quiet when I let off and coast or slow down.
I drained the diff oil and saw metal shavings on the magnet.
I have since changed the diff fluid from 70w90 to amsoil 75w140. the diff noise is about half as loud now.
what do you guys think I should do? are these metal shavings an indicator of bad things to come. Will the higher weight oil help?
thanks

 

[oppirs]

ok you driving a 1 ton? redone the bearings? No bad things yet. Look like you take care/understand your van. Go and repack bearings, if needed.

As too shaving others may ad.

 

[147_Grain]

This is why I change the factory break-in fluid early at 5K in differentials - replacing the FF with a synthetic (i.e. Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90).

 

[LargeCarManX2]

Hate to say this, but yes...troubles are on the way. Somehow, something is askew with the internals of that rear end. When it fails, I would buy a used/complete rear end and exchange it. Amsoil is good, but it won't save it. If you want to prolong life a bit, drain again and put some 250 weight Amsoil in it.

 

[QuietPortage]

Yeah, that's a lot of metal. I've seen plenty of the very fine metallic powdery sludge on magnetic drain plugs, but never shavings like that. Something is amiss.

Red Line Shockproof Heavyweight may prolong it, but something is wrong it here.

 

[expat]

Originally Posted By: Bandito440
Yeah, that's a lot of metal. I've seen plenty of the very fine metallic powdery sludge on magnetic drain plugs, but never shavings like that. Something is amiss.

Red Line Shockproof Heavyweight may prolong it, but something is wrong it here.


I agree, I have only ever seen super fine, grey sludge/paste

 

[INDYMAC]

That's pretty ugly. What is the recommended gear oil for the diff? If I owned a 1 ton, it would have SAE 110 or 140 industrial gear oil. I wouldn't even fool around with a multi-vis automotive gear oil that will shear quickly. You want protection, not fuel economy.

 

[punisher]

Not good. If you pull it down sooner vs later and ck your pinion bearings, the ring and pinion might be salvageable.

2 problems in 70k miles could be indicative of other concerns. Mistakes are made when axle housings are machined. Maybe the rear pinion race isn't flush, maybe the race is cocked off center. You will know a lot more once you get it apart and cleaned up.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: punisher
ck your pinion bearings,



This.

 

[INDYMAC]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: punisher
ck your pinion bearings,



This.


Since buying a 2013 Tundra, I've become aware of several third member replacements under warranty and outside warranty. I never heard of this happening in the 1st generation Tundra using SAE 90 instead of the new 75w-85 Toyota gear oil. Pinion bearing failure at 70k miles was one I read about this morning.