If you have driven many miles since the seal was changed, a new wear pattern could have developed on the pinion and ring gear. In that case, the noise may not totally go away but may improve. If you have a small pointer type torque wrench capable of reading about 7-14 inch pounds which is a typical spec without a new pinion bearing , you can check it yourself. You will need to disconnect the drive shaft and remove the calipers (or drums) so that they don't affect your preload reading. If you applied too much torque to the nut where the preload is too high , The differential will need some disassembly to install a new crush sleeve prior to setting the preload.
2011 Silverado rear end noise?
- Thread starter Rutwad01
- Start date
You may not have damage per se. But post up what they find!
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
If it needs new bearings, probably about $600-$800.
Better than a used unknown axle, and swapping your brakes and all that over, plus the labor.
Better than a used unknown axle, and swapping your brakes and all that over, plus the labor.
I'm amazed at the lengths people will go to avoid r&p setup, including buying a used axle which is -- as you said -- unknown. Brakes could be a basket case, wheel bearings are a wild card, even TAD may be different. Sometimes u-joints don't match so you need to get a crossover joint.
Then everyone thinks they can reuse u-bolts, which you most definitely should not, and you've gotta bleed the brakes.
NONE of this is difficult, but when totalled up it's no less expensive or easier than just addressing the r&p head-on.
When you say bearing as in singular, do you mean the outer or both?
FWIW the old Haynes manuals would tell you to mark the nut and turn it 1/8" past the mark when tightening it after you install the new seal. I had a 1974 C-10 where the nut came loose and I just retightened it and blue Loctited the threads and never had another issue, including noise, from it.
